BoostHatchFreak

hey guys been lurking on here for awhile just finally made a account a little while ago. finally doing my hatch back up again after 2 years without being boosted. had some questions I need some answers to to get going on this car. first ive read that BorgWarner s366sx3 you don't need a restrictor but is a 3an enough line? or do you have to have 4an? also already have 2200cc bosch injectors with hondata or Neptune will they run good enough to drive in town on ? or do I need to step down injector size? goal for the car is 500-550whp (E85) for now til I get the cobwebs delt with on the car. thanks for the help in advance guys.

Txdragon

-3AN is just fine if you're not running a restrictor. 2200cc is major overkill for 500whp, even if you're running E85 but, it will provide plenty cushion. You can daily drive on em no problem, providing they're properly set up. Don't forget though that you'll have to sweep out your cobwebs pre-boost and then chase away gremlins post-boost. Lol!

BoostHatchFreak

thanks for the input. but what do you mean by proplerly set up? ya only got them cause a friend was parting out his build. I ran 1000cc grams last time ( b20 gt30 10psi e85 320aem pump and was already at 72% duty) so with that being around 300whp I figured 2200's should fit. but willing to go smaller if needed.

2x0

You'll still want to run a restrictor with -3 feed line. .060" for journal bearing.

2200's will work fine for you with E85, might run a little rich at idle but it is better to have the extra wiggle room. 1000/1200cc's will be too small for your goal, and there are only a few 1600cc options on the market that are quite expensive.

Autoworks

Not for the Borg, you can run -3, no restrictor, clear path drain line (5/8, -10, or larger), and proper ventillation on the motor.

Txdragon

"Properly set up" refers to programmed dead times, crank trim, etc. 2200 is A LOT of injector to work with on a daily, providing you're intending DD. Your injector duty cycle has a good deal to do with your fuel pump as well.
300whp @72% DC on 1ks with the AEM 320 says your pump was giving you grief. UNLESS that was E85 also?

^^

K7-1Ktrevor

My id1000's made 440whp on pump at 82% duty cycle.

if they are id2200's they will work well. They tune fairly easily and you'll never need to upgrade them. Like 2x0 said 1000's are too small for that kind of power on e85, 1200's would probably be at their limit or just past it.

maxwellmercer

Which fuel pump?

I made 490whp on e85 with ID1000 and AEM 340 pump, duty was around 90-93% I believe.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

On an SX366 Borg-Warner, you actually don't want to run that size of a restrictor due to the very large turbine shaft and bearings that are housed in this sized turbocharger. I would run a -4AN oil feed using no smaller than a .080" restrictor and that's ONLY if oil pressure is over 100psi at cold start.

This can also work. -3AN w/ no restrictor , or -4AN with .080" restrictor w/ anything over 100psi at cold start. Otherwise, no restrictor for a Honda that uses a stock oil pump.



.

BoostHatchFreak

Yes I have -10 planned for drain

BoostHatchFreak

Yes that was e85

BoostHatchFreak

No as stated in first post Bosch 210lb injectors

BoostHatchFreak

Did you use stock lines ? My 300 @72% was all stock line

BoostHatchFreak

Thanks I’ll be keeping my -3 line then

BoostHatchFreak

so guys now that I got some time to get on the old laptop. heres so info on the car. its always been a weekend warrior/ drag car. always driven to the track and back. old set up was a b20b studs 1k grams 320aem pump gt3040r 3'dp 2.5 exhaust 38mm tail wg ebay piping gsr trans. car went 12.2 @ 122 on e85 w/1.7 60's broke two sleeves in two different blocks due to the vacuum line going to the gm 2bar map (had a hole)

started thinking what I wanted from the car 450- 500whp street and the ability to turn up to run 10.5 index at the track and started to pick up parts as we all do. life then got in the way as happens in most builds.

so onto the parts, I picked up a local guy part out that was a member on here. got a whole sleeved short block that just needed bored and assembled everything was new, a1 block, aebs sleeves, balanced ls crank, crower billet I beam rods, I had a gsr 81x89 rod and piston short block that was all motor and was in the process of redoing it for boost ( looser p2w clearance different ring gap) so I both those short block and will be selling the one I don't use. as for the head I have a p72 stock ports s2k valves blox springs s2k lost motion, pro 1 cams, performer x intake, golden eagle fuel rail, aem reg, walbro 450, 210lb bosch injectors, tail 38mm gate, t4 ram horn, 4 port catch can, aem wide band, electronic boost controller (w 3port) also forgot the snail have a borg 366sx3 as mentioned earlier.

so I'm at a cross road I don't have the funds to push the turbo with the sleeved block ( meaning the twin disc, dog box, front end, and all the little odds that add up quick let alone the parts that will break) but the sleeved block is more peace of mind at 500whp then stock sleeves w rod and pistons unless I'm wrong here never been to these powers. so need some guidance here. so my though was to sell the sleeved s.b to fund the good odds and ends and run the r&p 89mm gsr . so let me know the thought's on that. thanks for any input I see all input as positive there always two sides to things.

maxwellmercer

I have -6 feed and return. And also a fuel pump relay upgrade.

2x0

500whp is really pushing the stock sleeve limit. Anything above 400-450whp I would at least look at CSS.



Also thanks to everyone for correcting me on the oil restrictor.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

No need to look at a CSS block, he has a brand new sleeved block. If it were me I would use the sleeved block, if that means you have to wait a little while longer to save and get the funds to finish up other odds and ends to do it right, than I would do it that way.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Oh an for 500whp you don't need a dog box or a twin disk.

BoostHatchFreak

was thinking this time around to run a -6 feed and use the stock feed as return. also should of done the relay before. ill be sure to do it now.

BoostHatchFreak

for 500 I know I don't but to take advantage of the sleeved block need at least a twin disc id think. but again never been to this power level before. so any info on the route to go to run 10.5's would be awesome.

2x0

Thought he was saying to sell the sleeved block and fund a build on a stock sleeve rod and piston setup. Personally I wouldn't push 500whp on stock sleeve without CSS.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Obviously with a sleeved block you have the potential to make more than 500whp, that is the beauty of building a sleeved block. Now if you want to run a twin disk because you may want more power down the road then yes getting it now would save you some coin. I would invest in a set of DSS 2.9 axles if you don't have axles yet, if you plan on running Pro 1 cams I would invest in a better set of valve springs than Blox. For springs I would recommend using Ferrea.

BoostHatchFreak

was thinking that, get a twin disc, lsd, coil on plug, nice drag wheels(no more areo's), new slicks, skinny set up, Neptune, better mounts, scatter shield, fuel lines all those nice things to have for drag racing.

btw the rod and piston block is devcon the bottom inch, and a 3/4" thick block guard. do know how much it help to hold 500 or more.

az civic assuming there blox there not marked. cam with the head. I got the pro1 new. also if I use the sleeved block I was thinking of going over 500 as I have the turbo and fuel to do so and would have the block if I go that route.

trying to go off of turbolscrx hatch build and seeing where he's needing to go to go faster.so trying to think ahead. I do have a new stage 3 6 puck with a 2100lb plate I got when was just going to throw it together all motor again. ( same clutch I ran low 12's with) again thanks all for the inputs. ill try to upload some pics precobweb knock off lol

BoostHatchFreak

See no markings or retainers spring have no marking either