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Changed the fuel injectors, fuel regulators, fuel relay, fuel pump , after no start first checked relay it was fine. I could hear the fuel pump buz when turn key. I took exhaust manifold off Checked the fuel lines unplaced from regulator no fuel getting to fuel rail or regulator. Do you think the Fuel pump is not working. When I installed it I had to wire the harness because the universal pump didn’t have the clip connected that fit Honda. So I put tabs on each wire and plugged into harness that way. Is it possible the pump could be in reversed? Maybe I put the Wires in wrong due to different color than OEM. I already replaced ignition, plugs and wire , rotor and cap, cleaned out the throttle it had built up carbon as did EGR replaced and cleaned out manifold that was plugged up. I also replaced catalytic converter it was clogged. Turned black from leak due to clog. Replace charcoal canister and shut off , replaced map , purge control solenoid , crank sensor , fuel air sensor , vapor sensor , idle air control , Replacing fuel injectors and Regulator here and cleaning manifold and throttle Plugged catalytic converter Back together with new air due to my oem box broken up and battery box cracked as well.
it is possible to wire pump backwards, pull the fuel line off at the engine and stick it into a container of fuel and see if it drains it when you turn the key on
I got it started then I have coolant splashing out and on the timing belt side. I just lifted the car and getting ready to removed timing belt to get a look at the pump and head. I also had a strong fuel smell. I found my fuel injectors leaking. I looked everything over and checked the injectors they seem fine except one I had to replace the o ring. The wiring on the fuel pump was right it however the crimp was loose on the connection. I decided to reinstall the Honda pump and it worked fine. I did clean a crapload of build up on the divide. I have a new rotor coming today from Honda and I bought Denso plugs too. I noticed a lot of carbon build on the plug I think it was due to my cat backing up.
For S&G, is your key light blinking, or functional at all?
Hey Mad Mike I took the belts off and the water pump cleaned around the outside put a new gasket replaced tensioner and checked all the bolts and hookups. I then put the harmonic balance in place and on Mark put the tire on and replaced my New NGK with Denso insure the gaps were correct which they weren’t. Replaced NGK wires and distributor cap and rotor. Checked for any loose ends put new antifreeze in and primed fuel. Turned ignition and she started right up. Scanner had no code So far. Then suddenly it started bogging up and my neighbor yelled shut it off. This time it was a gallon on gas draining under my engine. Too the intake off and tired the ignition to see where we were leaking it was a blown o ring thus far just put them back in the rear fuel rail. Is it normal for that much fuel to be running I assume there are under pressure? I am waiting for my neighbor to come home so he can help while I look to see if where ok. I just picked up a new scanner it’s got a lot more features fancier than my 19 dollar one I’ve had. This is a Autolink AL519 has a CD and color. Also came with a nice case I was impressed for 50 bucks seems nicely made. I guess proof is in the pudding. We’ll see. I’ll let you know how she turns out. I’ve got primer base and clear along with spoiler and lip. I bought a tent to paint in and am making this my project. I know it’s not worth the money but it’s valuable to me. So she is getting my love.
Hey Mad Mike I took the belts off and the water pump cleaned around the outside put a new gasket replaced tensioner and checked all the bolts and hookups. I then put the harmonic balance in place and on Mark put the tire on and replaced my New NGK with Denso insure the gaps were correct which they weren’t. Replaced NGK wires and distributor cap and rotor. Checked for any loose ends put new antifreeze in and primed fuel. Turned ignition and she started right up. Scanner had no code So far. Then suddenly it started bogging up and my neighbor yelled shut it off. This time it was a gallon on gas draining under my engine. Too the intake off and tired the ignition to see where we were leaking it was a blown o ring thus far just put them back in the rear fuel rail. Is it normal for that much fuel to be running I assume there are under pressure? I am waiting for my neighbor to come home so he can help while I look to see if where ok. I just picked up a new scanner it’s got a lot more features fancier than my 19 dollar one I’ve had. This is a Autolink AL519 has a CD and color. Also came with a nice case I was impressed for 50 bucks seems nicely made. I guess proof is in the pudding. We’ll see. I’ll let you know how she turns out. I’ve got primer base and clear along with spoiler and lip. I bought a tent to paint in and am making this my project. I know it’s not worth the money but it’s valuable to me. So she is getting my love.
Ok I hope that the misfire was due to the timing being off. I just went and adjusted everything to TDC and turned the crank to seat the belt. I lost the bolt to my engine mount on one side. I can’t find the sucker. It’s got to be in there somewhere. I’m not starting the car till i locate the b}%tard. I am crossing my fingers that this and gapping my plugs that claimed to be gapped. Denso. If I get a bad response. I have one more option in the fuel injectors. I bought a light diode to test. It is possible that the new ca carb compliant catalytic converter isn’t working correctly or the sensor. However I didn’t get a code for that area. I found the heat sensor code was due to my error somehow I put the air temp sensor in the coolant heat sensor location. They are almost identical. Obviously they are not. I’ll keep you posted
06-26-2019, 11:02 PM
98 Honda Accord V6 Coupe Cranks no start
