Hey guys I've been working on this na build for my 2000 insight to replace the unbearably slow 1 liter 3 cylinder it currently has. The main goal for the car is to have a fun daily driver that I can auto cross and do touge driving with. So far I'm extremely impressed with the cars handling especially since it's on 165/65/14 Bridgestone re92 fuel economy tires. I would like to maintain decent fuel efficiency out of the setup but if the cost is a good amount of performance I'm ok with a little worse fuel economy.

I plan on doing this build in stages so I can determine what engine has an adequate amount of power to meet my needs. I don't want to over build it but I also don't want to swap something in and feel like it's a turd either. I've acquired quite a few parts for cheap or free. Looking for some feedback, pointers and advice from all motor d series lovers. ive never been a big fan of single cams but I feel like the engine makes sense for this car. The car currently weighs 1750lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas. A sub in a small tube in the trunk. Full interior and still has the dc/dc converter in the trunk for the ima system which has been deleted.

"Stage 1 of the build"
-For the z6 block I'm currently putting together it will be 76mm bore, rehoned with new rings, bearings and decked .020" to acquire just under 11 to 1 compression. The y8 head I have ported myself and relapped all valves. I installed d15z7 cam cap/ rockers, cam and three stage vtec solenoid on this y8 head. I drilled out the oil passage to make the 12v to 16v crossover work. As for intake manifold im gonna be using a ported y8 intake manifold. I have already bored the y8 intake manifold to 62mm and fitted a b series 60 mm tb on it. My power goal for the stroker motor is 145/120tq. I have a 1320 unequal length header to test on the car as well as a dc sports 4-2-1. For transmission I will use a cx transmission to start with. I have picked up a y8 trans and installed a phantom grip lsd into it. All the gears look good in the trans as well as the syncros but I need to get a new input shaft bearing from Honda for it. Mpg goal is 50+ mpg give or take. The entire car is dialed in for fuel economy so I think this goal will be achievable."Stage 2 of the build"- I am working on porting a z6 head and doing a very thorough job on it. With this head I would like to run cbr 1000rr itbs on it, a crower stage 3 cam or something similar in size, a short close ratio geared y8 trans and higher compression although I still need to determine how, possibly gx pistons in a different 1.6 block with 94.4mm stroke. I don't plan on building this till I get some quality seat time with the first stage motor to see what I like and don't like so I can determine how to further progress.

I've heard good and bad about the phantom grip. One of my customers just installed one in his gsr trans, full weight 95 civic Lx sedan with a bone stock b20 just 1320 header, intake tube with v stack and my tune ran 14.1 @97mph on hx wheels with 660 tread wear tires. I feel like you never know till you try it.

As for intake manifold choice I was eye balling the engine bay and it seems like there won't be enough room for a eddelbrock or skunk2 in there which is fine. So I started to port my y8 manifold today. I think it will be a good compromise between a stock y8 and something aftermarket.

And as far as p29's, my tuning experience has seen both sides, I can tell you an all stock y8 with p29's will be slower then a stock y8 and end up with 12-14 degrees of timing and still detonating lol. I can also share an experience I had with a guy who came down in a 89crx si with d15b7 block milled .060" with p29's and a delta 272 cam, and honestly that car kind of blew my mind. It pulled how a b20 would pull in a crx. It was probably one of the fastest all motor single cams that I've tuned and I was very impressed with it. I remember the fuel curve holding all the way out to 7800 rpms

as far as my d17 stroker motor is going I decided to order a set of 76mm d17a2 pistons and get the block bored. I was noticing the cylinder that the z6 had spun the rod bearing had some wavyness to it and didn't clean up well from me honing it. Also the cylinders seemed egg shaped from being higher miles so I just decided to have some patience and do it right the first time. I would really like to have a d15 in the car first and have it with the cx trans so I have something to look forward to once the stroker motor and y8 trans are ready to go in but I lost out on buying a super healthy d15b7 from a buddy so that might not happen.

the theory in my head was the long radius turn would be the most likely spot for fuel to run into the runner, also I've never liked touching the port floor. I did do some dimpling just above the valve seat. Idk really I figured it was a $20 y8 head and a good chance to experiment. I also have a z6 head I wanna do more of a race port job on and see how it turns out.

Just started reworking the ports on this z6 head. I can tell you they are a much better design then the y8 ports. Stock for stock the z6 is way better of a port design for intakes. The longer divider should net more velocity. And they are a much straighter shot. This is just the beginning, can't wait till my 80 grit flap wheels come in to make it actually look like something. I plan on upsizing these ports as much as I can. The z6 block will be 76mmx94.4mm so I'm sure it will require allot more air then a standard 75mmx90. I also made the decision to run the cx tranny off the bat because it will give me something to look forward to once the y8 is ready and I'll be able to make the decision then whether the cx is just way too long for fun or if it will work with the power band of the 1.7. The stock insight gear set is almost identical to the cx and even with only 55hp it's really not all that bad. 2nd gear is perfect for back roads pulling through corners.

Lol. I totally understand what you mean. I'm using it as a stepping stone because I don't wanna be shocked going from 60-80mpg with the factory motor to a na d series with a short geared trans right off the bat. It won't take me anytime to change it out and once the mounts are setup they will work for both.

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