Davesmit

I'm dismembering my car to change the clutch plate but the problem is that I've already spend a ton of time getting to this point and even done my homework and at this very moment the transmission housing is completely unbolted from the engine block, the rear engine mount and the passenger side mount, yet the transmission housing refuses to come off! #*$^@#! It appears as firmly attached to the engine block as if all the bolts were still on! What is going on?

This car has never had the clutch plate changed, ever, since the car was manufactured! But now it's jittering at times and slipping some so I have no choice but to spend all this time and money on "preventive" maintenance.


The last photo shows the clutch cover and the engine stiffener. That engine stiffener I do not have, which seems odd, I took these photos from the following site: https://www.justanswer.com/honda/1k8...utch-time.html

Pauls94accord

I recently replaced my rear main seal and I couldn't for the life of me get the transmission off. There was one bolt on the backside of the engine that I missed. It came off very easy after that last unseen bolt. You probably have the same issue. It is right above the rear engine mount bracket closer to the front of the engine (if that makes sense). There is a brace that was blocking my line of sight to that bolt but at the right angle you can barely see it.

MAD_MIKE

A few things.
One is when removing the transmission, you don't have to unbolt the front or rear engine mounts, those two mounts along with the engine mount will hold the engine in situ.
On the rear mount there are three bolts that go directly to the differential case of the transmission. There will be a fourth bolt that passes through an ear of the engine that bolts to the bracket itself and acts as a clamp.
You did remove the axle shafts already, yes?
Did you remove the right side radius rod?
Did you remove the exhaust down/J-tube? You don't want the engine to be binding up the exhaust or stressing the exhaust manifold, it is a thin wall casting.
Lower the trans side a bit so you can remove the trans mount. This will give you more room to manipulate the trans.
With all the wiring and clutch slave and piping out of the way you should now be able to gently prise the trans from the engine.
There are two sleeves that align the bell to the block, do not damage them, gently prise the trans away. If it keeps snapping back then you may have missed a bolt.
Three bolts on the rear mount to the differential.
Two bolts that are on the back side of the engine going into the transmission.
Two bolts on top of the bellhousing(below distributor) into the engine.
One bolt down low below the starter that bolts into the engine.
I believe the AT cars use an additional bolt where the starter is located on an MT. And the MT uses that engine stiffener. Make sure that is removed.

Make sure the engine is settled and not going to move.
Keep the trans supported and slowly start to lower it, once the tension is off the bellhousing dowels the trans may slip off. easier. If you have the trans cantilievering off the engine it will stay stuck on as the dowels and input shaft will hang onto the engine. I prefer to use a mechanical trans jack on such jobs as it is far easier to manipulate than a hydraulic jack or using the hanging chain method.
If everything is free, have an assistant use a large flat head screwdriver and slowly prise on the clutch fork, it *might' be that the input shaft and clutch disc are sticking together and may release if the clutch is depressed.

Davesmit

Good stuff Mad_Mike. I have not removed the radius rod because it would be very difficult to do as I have the halfshaft sitting on it and no room to get to the bolts. But I don't see at this point the essential need to remove it; I think I have enough room to drop the Trans with it there. I have though, leaned a piece of 2by4 by the radius rod to protect it from impact in case the tranny decides to drop on it.

I will put your inputs to good use to help me get the tranny down. I'll put that one bolt back into the rear engine support bracket to help support the engine.

Interesting talk concerning QUOTE"If everything is free, have an assistant use a large flat head screwdriver and slowly prise on the clutch fork, it *might' be that the input shaft and clutch disc are sticking together and may release if the clutch is depressed."END QUOTE.
Currently, I have everything free, but the tranny housing still does not want to drop from the engine housing and now that you mention this about the clutch fork, it may explain why.

Davesmit

sliu02

did you ever figure out why the transmission wouldn't drop?

Apollo11

i was about to post the same thing, mine was stuck hard, wouldn't budge. Then I went all around checking and sure enough, there was a bolt I missed, hidden on the back side, hard to see.