lakersgo

Think I am counting down the days on my 98 Accord V6.

It has collected 203k miles so far. Although, the last 3 years, it has seen minimal usage due to me being out of town for two years and new car bought to delegate the Accord to secondary.

Replaced the valve cover gasket and alternator the last couple of weeks. The car still has rough idles. I'd like to think this is due to Idle control valve, but truth be told, it was replaced just 6 months ago. It may be timing belt if I am all honest, even though I am not quite sure how timing belt affects idle (someone care to explain?) If it's timing belt, I am ready to send this thing to junk yard or take it apart and sell for the parts.

I just can't justify spending $800-$1,000 on a car valued at around $1,000 to 1,500. Sad, we bought this car new 20 years ago.

2001GSRSC

Ya, I was chasing down a poor idle /lost power complaint. Did the plugs , air filter, had injectors removed and cleaned, disassebled the throttle body, reset the TPS, replaced the IACV and FPR.

Turned out to be the cats were clogged.

You find it eventually. I though you want to dump it cause of the v6. What car did you get? A Malibu? I always liked those 03 Acura RL's , get it in black. They suffer the same problems as the 3.2TL, they have "problems" . That is their problem.

A timing gear a tooth off will be noticeable.If the belts self tensioner let go, on inspection youd see they dont line up.

lakersgo

I am very inexperienced with timing belt sort of thing, valve stuff....etc. So I am not sure how to check the camshaft position etc.

In fact, after watching all the youtube video, I am scared to work on them. I just hope they work.

I wouldn't be surprised that my cats were clogged too but the more immediately problem is that my car doesn't start properly.

My car stalled on the road last week while I was waiting for red light. I was having multiple warning lights coming on the gauge, and as soon as I jumped start the car it would die right after, so that tells me it was the alternator.

Now that I replaced the alternator but the car still having some kind of starting issue. Thinking it could be battery ( recharging with battery tender as I am typing), but even when it's running, I noticed the irregular idle. It would stays at 1,100 rpm for a while and then drop to 750....or 1,400 to 1,200....etc. I am going to get a new ICV just to verify but somehow I have a feeling it's the old timing belt (probably never changed in 20 years of ownership) doing this to the car.

2001GSRSC

Low battery will crank slow, possibly create a parasitic drag from the alternator on max field output. The alt at full field is not going to act like an engine brake. That front alt bearing would have to seize not squeal, the smell from that would be noticeable along with no power. Lets not entertain that.

If the battery is below 12.3 then it would crank slow and have some other hard start issues that way.

How is the fuel pressure? There are hot soak issues with that model , yes.
EGR port has it been cleaned recently?

The unknown is scary. Reality can be rationalized. Use your skills. Ascend to the light , stop waiting in the darkness. Be water. Water can flow or water can smash.

Gather tools. Lights, get a OBD adapter to read and pull codes. Bluetooth ones are nice and they talk to the smart phones. Grab a hard manual with the data you need to know.

In 20 years and 200000 miles you never changed the belt? Thats friggin awesome.

I would take a quick peak and quit running on faith, hmm?
Pull codes.
I would clean/inspect the throttle body. It controls the idle.

holmesnmanny

When you replaced the valve covers did you check the mechanical timing ? Should be a mark on the timing cover to set crank tdc and then check both cams. When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced ? Make sure to gap them correctly. Should be .044 inches. Distributor cap and rotor ?

iacv's are expensive, it's not likely it's bad so don't bother replacing it

lakersgo

Thanks for the feedbacks, guys.

Spark plugs, rotor and distributor were replaced 4-5 years ago. I know it's been a while, but I've only driven less than 25,000 miles during this time for reason stated in the original post, so I don't think they are the culprit.

I can probably check the mark, is it as easy as removal the timing belt cover?

The throttle body has been spread so much carburetor cleaner, I am pretty confident it's not it, so is the EGR...etc.

The only unattended area are the valve and timing....that's why my natural instinct tells me I am doomed.

Engine light is on, I suspect it's caused by the irregular idle and sudden shutdown after starting, which is what I really don't understand, I thought a new alternator would cure the later. I will pull the code this afternoon, get a new ICV if possible and report back.

You guys can tell, I have developed somewhat an emotional attachment to the car over the years.

2001GSRSC

A those EGR passages need to be drilled out after 200000. The sensors need to be removed and cleaned with a brush to clean it like i suggest. Not hosing it with a rattle can of something.

Hard to believe the water pump bearing would not have squealed after so long. I suspect at some point the water pump and timing belt were done.

lakersgo

Pheww, came back from Advanced Auto Part store today with a code of P0505 Idle Air Control.

So I guess the Intermotor (crap) ICV has failed since installation 6 months ago. That's a bit weird, is our Accord known to be picky about 3rd party ICV?

So I can breathe a sigh of relief. The ICV is still under warranty I can exchange a new one for free, assuming Advanced Auto Part stands by its policy.

That doesn't mean you should go 200,000 without changing the timing belt though.

holmesnmanny

i've seen the connectors on those things not quite click in so be sure its clicked fully before condemning it

also check the connectors for rust or corrosion

lakersgo

By connectors, do you mean the coolant tube or the vacuum tube on the underside of ICV?

holmesnmanny

where the connector itself plugs in, both ends

lakersgo

Thanks, Holmesnmanny.

I forgot there is a connector to IACV. And yes, it was somewhat loose when I worked on it, so that was a good call.

What ended up happening is that I exchanged the part at advanced auto part and followed a youtube video to let the car relearn optimal idle rpm.

So consider the crisis averted. I expect a few more years of happy ownership of this car.

lakersgo

Well, folks, it's not over yet.

Truth be told, right after the alternator was changed i had a hard time starting the car. The car would sort of seemed to starting for one second then die right away. I had to use another car to jump mine.

Today this happened again. I frankly thought this could be it for the car. So i test the battery, 12.6 and 14.9 with engine on and off. I am a bit concerned about the overcharging at 14.9 but i figure its a new alternator anyway. i don't know whether it's the belt or whatever. Please give me some suggestions, thx

holmesnmanny

What exactly is it doing now ? If the idle is going up and down then you have a vacuum leak. There is a gasket that attaches the iacv to the intake manifold. Did you reuse the old one or use a new one ?

where did you originally get the alternator ? parts store alternators are junk, you need a brand name one, with Denso being the best one

lakersgo

It started for a second then died. I had to apply gas before it stalled to let the car catch at idle then drove home. So between last night and today, I started the car a few more times just fine, so I don't know what had happened.

There is a small crack at the opening of the air intake hose (where it fits into the throttle body) which I don't think is that big of a deal but I am going to use silicone fix today. I will try to identify vacuum leak elsewhere too.

Brand new Bosch alternator. It's not some junk.

holmesnmanny

the next time it doesnt start, try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and see if it tries to start

you can try checking for spark too using a spark tester, you need to narrow down which is preventing it from starting, it might just be the main relay

i think it might be wise to just swap out the cap and rotor if they look worn

the 14.9 bolts is on the high side but if there are no electrical issues its probably fine