Trailer Options
#26
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Trailer Options
If space is not an issue, the closed trailer offers nice option of not having to load / unload everything before or after a race. Everything stays dry in the rain. You can sleep in the trailer if you are doing overnight events. If you aren't planning to pack too much to the track or do many overnights, than it might not be worth it to go closed vs open.
but I agree, and one of the reasons I'm going for an enclosed trailer... I'm tired of packing and unpacking spares all the time.
#27
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Trailer Options
It would pull and enclosed with double axle brakes fine, the 4.7 can pull 7K without issue. The main issue is length of the trailer with the shorter 4runner wheel base. Thats why the 08 Tundra can pull 7700 with the same engine/drivetrain is mainly because of stiffer rear springs and wheel base. I have pulled a 22 ft camper with a weight distributing hitch and it did fine although I would not pull anything longer than 22 ft fwiw. It wouldnt have a problem towing an enclosed 18-20 foot but its all a moot point because ecoboost is going to happen at some point soon.
#28
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Trailer Options
+07 Tundra is a 5.7L, like mine. the first gen can tow 7700lbs, but as someone that has towed with one, the brakes are terrifyingly small. You know I'm not trying to be a jerk... but lets talk out "all" of this for the sake of bettering the internets
lets look at the weights that will be attached to your bumper.
Trailer: 3200lbs empty (steel 8x20 with V nose... no tool box, no shelves, no tire rack, etc.)
Car: 2600lbs (this is lower than your cars competition weight would need to be)
Minimum Trailer Gear: 100lbs (trailer spare on steel wheel with aluminum racing jack... not including a mount to keep them safe)
Spare tires/rain tires: 100lbs (lets not talk about the mount... maybe you E track and strap them to the ground)
Bare minimum tools: I carry a Craftsman kit and a specialty tool bag... 60lbs.
Camp Box: stove, cast iron, etc. ... roughly 70lbs
Cooler: Ice, case of water, food, etc. ... 70ish lbs.
Spare Parts Box: 100lbs of pads, rotors, oil, trans fluid, nuts/bolt box, etc.
this is 6300lbs of stuff on the floor... no tool cart, no work bench, no mounting, nothing else... just the raw. this is 81.8% of the max tow capacity (of the first gen Tundra). Toyota says you need anti sway at 5k lbs (even on my truck lol) but 80% is the law in most states. Add to that its in a "not so aerodynamic" trailer (I'm going to guess your camper wasn't near 6300lbs)... I'd NEVER want to pull it without a minimum 1/2 ton truck (its actually my plan to pull one with my Tundra). Even if you move as much as you can stuff into the cab of the 4runner... your 4runner still has to stop it all. My generation Tundra, my truck in particular, is rated at 10k towing... and that's the minimum I'd want for safety to pull +6300lbs. Remember, its when the trailer acts a fool that you need to control it.... almost anything can pull stuff that is well behaved.
I have to pull Afton Mountain twice, every trip to VIR... the ups and downs of Rt29 add up... and you want to be able to tackle anything that comes if you go to a track out of region (nationals, Type R fest, etc)...
Ecoboost... it was on my list for a long time, even when hunting for a Tundra. My big 3 were the Tundra, Ecoboost, and a stick shift Dodge 2500 diesel (if I could find a deal). These are the 3 least maintenance intense and reliable trucks out there (sans the Dodge, but you put bomb proof ball joints on it once and you are good). The Tundra and Dodge will make you pay in oil (7.5L each)... the Ecoboost will make you pay in a more intense maintenance schedule and potential recalls (they really aren't sorted out well overall).
for the Ecoboost you want to make sure you have the big gas tank and the big motor... these two desires will drive up the interior quality of the truck. good for your comfort, bad for your wallet.
lets look at the weights that will be attached to your bumper.
Trailer: 3200lbs empty (steel 8x20 with V nose... no tool box, no shelves, no tire rack, etc.)
Car: 2600lbs (this is lower than your cars competition weight would need to be)
Minimum Trailer Gear: 100lbs (trailer spare on steel wheel with aluminum racing jack... not including a mount to keep them safe)
Spare tires/rain tires: 100lbs (lets not talk about the mount... maybe you E track and strap them to the ground)
Bare minimum tools: I carry a Craftsman kit and a specialty tool bag... 60lbs.
Camp Box: stove, cast iron, etc. ... roughly 70lbs
Cooler: Ice, case of water, food, etc. ... 70ish lbs.
Spare Parts Box: 100lbs of pads, rotors, oil, trans fluid, nuts/bolt box, etc.
this is 6300lbs of stuff on the floor... no tool cart, no work bench, no mounting, nothing else... just the raw. this is 81.8% of the max tow capacity (of the first gen Tundra). Toyota says you need anti sway at 5k lbs (even on my truck lol) but 80% is the law in most states. Add to that its in a "not so aerodynamic" trailer (I'm going to guess your camper wasn't near 6300lbs)... I'd NEVER want to pull it without a minimum 1/2 ton truck (its actually my plan to pull one with my Tundra). Even if you move as much as you can stuff into the cab of the 4runner... your 4runner still has to stop it all. My generation Tundra, my truck in particular, is rated at 10k towing... and that's the minimum I'd want for safety to pull +6300lbs. Remember, its when the trailer acts a fool that you need to control it.... almost anything can pull stuff that is well behaved.
I have to pull Afton Mountain twice, every trip to VIR... the ups and downs of Rt29 add up... and you want to be able to tackle anything that comes if you go to a track out of region (nationals, Type R fest, etc)...
Ecoboost... it was on my list for a long time, even when hunting for a Tundra. My big 3 were the Tundra, Ecoboost, and a stick shift Dodge 2500 diesel (if I could find a deal). These are the 3 least maintenance intense and reliable trucks out there (sans the Dodge, but you put bomb proof ball joints on it once and you are good). The Tundra and Dodge will make you pay in oil (7.5L each)... the Ecoboost will make you pay in a more intense maintenance schedule and potential recalls (they really aren't sorted out well overall).
for the Ecoboost you want to make sure you have the big gas tank and the big motor... these two desires will drive up the interior quality of the truck. good for your comfort, bad for your wallet.
#29
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Trailer Options
+07 Tundra is a 5.7L, like mine. the first gen can tow 7700lbs, but as someone that has towed with one, the brakes are terrifyingly small. You know I'm not trying to be a jerk... but lets talk out "all" of this for the sake of bettering the internets
lets look at the weights that will be attached to your bumper.
Trailer: 3200lbs empty (steel 8x20 with V nose... no tool box, no shelves, no tire rack, etc.)
Car: 2600lbs (this is lower than your cars competition weight would need to be)
Minimum Trailer Gear: 100lbs (trailer spare on steel wheel with aluminum racing jack... not including a mount to keep them safe)
Spare tires/rain tires: 100lbs (lets not talk about the mount... maybe you E track and strap them to the ground)
Bare minimum tools: I carry a Craftsman kit and a specialty tool bag... 60lbs.
Camp Box: stove, cast iron, etc. ... roughly 70lbs
Cooler: Ice, case of water, food, etc. ... 70ish lbs.
Spare Parts Box: 100lbs of pads, rotors, oil, trans fluid, nuts/bolt box, etc.
this is 6300lbs of stuff on the floor... no tool cart, no work bench, no mounting, nothing else... just the raw. this is 81.8% of the max tow capacity (of the first gen Tundra). Toyota says you need anti sway at 5k lbs (even on my truck lol) but 80% is the law in most states. Add to that its in a "not so aerodynamic" trailer (I'm going to guess your camper wasn't near 6300lbs)... I'd NEVER want to pull it without a minimum 1/2 ton truck (its actually my plan to pull one with my Tundra). Even if you move as much as you can stuff into the cab of the 4runner... your 4runner still has to stop it all. My generation Tundra, my truck in particular, is rated at 10k towing... and that's the minimum I'd want for safety to pull +6300lbs. Remember, its when the trailer acts a fool that you need to control it.... almost anything can pull stuff that is well behaved.
I have to pull Afton Mountain twice, every trip to VIR... the ups and downs of Rt29 add up... and you want to be able to tackle anything that comes if you go to a track out of region (nationals, Type R fest, etc)...
Ecoboost... it was on my list for a long time, even when hunting for a Tundra. My big 3 were the Tundra, Ecoboost, and a stick shift Dodge 2500 diesel (if I could find a deal). These are the 3 least maintenance intense and reliable trucks out there (sans the Dodge, but you put bomb proof ball joints on it once and you are good). The Tundra and Dodge will make you pay in oil (7.5L each)... the Ecoboost will make you pay in a more intense maintenance schedule and potential recalls (they really aren't sorted out well overall).
for the Ecoboost you want to make sure you have the big gas tank and the big motor... these two desires will drive up the interior quality of the truck. good for your comfort, bad for your wallet.
lets look at the weights that will be attached to your bumper.
Trailer: 3200lbs empty (steel 8x20 with V nose... no tool box, no shelves, no tire rack, etc.)
Car: 2600lbs (this is lower than your cars competition weight would need to be)
Minimum Trailer Gear: 100lbs (trailer spare on steel wheel with aluminum racing jack... not including a mount to keep them safe)
Spare tires/rain tires: 100lbs (lets not talk about the mount... maybe you E track and strap them to the ground)
Bare minimum tools: I carry a Craftsman kit and a specialty tool bag... 60lbs.
Camp Box: stove, cast iron, etc. ... roughly 70lbs
Cooler: Ice, case of water, food, etc. ... 70ish lbs.
Spare Parts Box: 100lbs of pads, rotors, oil, trans fluid, nuts/bolt box, etc.
this is 6300lbs of stuff on the floor... no tool cart, no work bench, no mounting, nothing else... just the raw. this is 81.8% of the max tow capacity (of the first gen Tundra). Toyota says you need anti sway at 5k lbs (even on my truck lol) but 80% is the law in most states. Add to that its in a "not so aerodynamic" trailer (I'm going to guess your camper wasn't near 6300lbs)... I'd NEVER want to pull it without a minimum 1/2 ton truck (its actually my plan to pull one with my Tundra). Even if you move as much as you can stuff into the cab of the 4runner... your 4runner still has to stop it all. My generation Tundra, my truck in particular, is rated at 10k towing... and that's the minimum I'd want for safety to pull +6300lbs. Remember, its when the trailer acts a fool that you need to control it.... almost anything can pull stuff that is well behaved.
I have to pull Afton Mountain twice, every trip to VIR... the ups and downs of Rt29 add up... and you want to be able to tackle anything that comes if you go to a track out of region (nationals, Type R fest, etc)...
Ecoboost... it was on my list for a long time, even when hunting for a Tundra. My big 3 were the Tundra, Ecoboost, and a stick shift Dodge 2500 diesel (if I could find a deal). These are the 3 least maintenance intense and reliable trucks out there (sans the Dodge, but you put bomb proof ball joints on it once and you are good). The Tundra and Dodge will make you pay in oil (7.5L each)... the Ecoboost will make you pay in a more intense maintenance schedule and potential recalls (they really aren't sorted out well overall).
for the Ecoboost you want to make sure you have the big gas tank and the big motor... these two desires will drive up the interior quality of the truck. good for your comfort, bad for your wallet.
I have been eyeing an ecoboost for a while, the majority of the issues I see is the first gens w/o port injection were caking the intake valves and needing the heads pulled etc. I am going to the dual port/direct 2nd gen 3.5L, where they took a play out of Toyotas book with port/direct. I would stay Toyota IF they would ever bring the diesel 1/2 ton Tundra, but I cant wait much longer. I like the upgrade potential for the ecoboost as well. Of course any option will get the extended range tank.
#30
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Trailer Options
If this is true... i'll be in line for the used ones in another 3-5 years lol i'll take 555ftlbs
https://demotix.com/2020-toyota-tundra-diesel/
https://demotix.com/2020-toyota-tundra-diesel/
#31
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Trailer Options
Coming home from VIR, starting up Afton from a dead stop after turning onto rt. 250....that’s no easy pull. My 19k pound combined truck/trailer is workin hard!
#32
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Trailer Options
If this is true... i'll be in line for the used ones in another 3-5 years lol i'll take 555ftlbs
https://demotix.com/2020-toyota-tundra-diesel/
https://demotix.com/2020-toyota-tundra-diesel/
I dont believe anything anymore about the release of a diesel Toyota in the states. It would be nice with the cummins, I mean they used a bmw engine in the new toyota Z4. It also wouldnt surprise me if they used a diesel from one of the Toyota global platforms.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post