Louie B.

I've always heard that to put the ST rear sway bar on the 88 civics / crxs you need a special adapter kit. So when I went to swap my rear bar from the 91 hatchback to the 88 crx without the adaptor kit, I was expecting a no-fit situation.

What I found was an easy, bolt right up to the factory locations fit! the end links aren't connected to the shock bolt, but instead inward a little in the stock holes.

Does anyone see any reason for not doing it this way? Not quite as effective? binding problems?

bar with suspension hanging (car in the air):


bar with suspension jacked up (car on the ground):


End link with suspension hanging:


End link with suspension jacked up:


Had to trim the right bracket a little to clear the exhaust (pic taken before trimming):


I'm still running the stock springs and shocks (until I can get the hatch sold) and adding this bar seems to have stiffened up the rear end considerably (too much for just a sway bar?) which is why I mentioned the possibility of binding above. I haven't track tested it yet. If I leave it this way I'll keep you guys posted on how it does.





Modified by thumpu77 at 12:03 AM 2/13/2004

Ash J. Williams

Looks very good, much better fitment with your LCA than the 90 LCA methinks, i might have to get me a pair.
try adjusting your bar, it is to the almost stiffest setting. moving to the outside or middle hole will stop the bar from pushing considerably.
Stan

Louie B.

I purposely set the bar at the stiffest setting. I want it tight, I was just surprised that it was that tight.

I was just informed by Chris Shenefield at RedShift Motorsports via Email that the 88 "adapter" kit is actually a longer bolt and a tube that ties the channel together, so that the bracket is bolted through the entire arm, not just one thin piece.

Thanks Chris for the enlightenment!

Louie B.

I thought I'd post this for people finding this thread in a search......

Here's pics of "the right way" I used 1"long peices of 1/2" pipe and drilled the threads out of the factory nut (couldn't get a grade 8.8 bolt that was threaded all the way up) You can also see the amount of trimming I did to clear the exhaust.

Jaker

I actually used the lower shock bolts just like the 89-91 LCAs, and slid in a couple washers to take up the space between the plate and the LCA surface. This has the effect of squaring up the bracket in the recess on the LCA, and prevent any pivoting of the bracket when the bar acts on the LCA/bracket.

silverCRXTC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumpu77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought I'd post this for people finding this thread in a search......

Here's pics of "the right way" I used 1"long peices of 1/2" pipe and drilled the threads out of the factory nut (couldn't get a grade 8.8 bolt that was threaded all the way up) You can also see the amount of trimming I did to clear the exhaust.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That looks like a 17 mm craftsman socket instead of that pipe adaptor, nice write up

importboi22

can i get an overall shot im very interested in adding a sway bar to my car

88 standard =\

importboi22

also were did you guys get the ST sway bar kit from? how much was it?

Doctor CorteZ

you should lengthen those endlinks.

Tyson

since you mention you think its "too tight", do you realize you have it on the stiffest setting?

BoostedEF

Sorry that its alittle off topic but do you guys know if eg lca's fit on ef's ? And if they do what sway bar can i use ?

Louie B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importboi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i get an overall shot im very interested in adding a sway bar to my car

88 standard =\</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's dificult to get everything in the frame at once, but I'll try to get a couple of shots for you

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importboi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also were did you guys get the ST sway bar kit from? how much was it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A friend of mine is selling a rear ST bar brand new in the box (He's selling his CRX too). I forget his HT name but I'll tell him to get on here and post up the info.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should lengthen those endlinks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have since put my GC's/Konis on and lowered the ride height by about 1.25" Everything lines up now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since you mention you think its "too tight", do you realize you have it on the stiffest setting? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I wanted it tight, but I didn't think it would have such an effect on how stiff the suspension is when you bounce on the center of the rear (compressing both sides at the same time)

Doctor CorteZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumpu77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have since put my GC's/Konis on and lowered the ride height by about 1.25" Everything lines up now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should make the endlinks as long as possible to decrease the angular bind that may occur with those short ends.

CRX Lee

I've had the same ST rear bar new in the gatrage for about four years but just not installed it yet, partly because I am a shock snob and wasn't thrilled about mounting it to the bottom shock bolt.

I had considered doing what you did and swinging it over to the stock sway bar mount location but was concerned about possible binding of the heims at teh angle. My other concern is that by moving the mount farther inboard on the arm than it was designed, you are changing the motion ratio or reducing the sway bar rate at the wheel thus requiring it to be adjusted stiffer and losing effectiveness.

I hadn't yet decided what to do but good job in doing it. Glad to hear you put the Konis on it, I about gagged when I say a nice new bar on a car with 15 year old OE shocks.

Louie B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Glad to hear you put the Konis on it, I about gagged when I say a nice new bar on a car with 15 year old OE shocks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They were the original Honda shocks too!! the right front was completely blown out!!

Thanks Lee for the sugestion of using the 92+ shock forks to get the 92+ shocks to fit my 88. It works great!!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually everything is for sale at the right price except the wife and the boy, and we might discuss lease options on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

[Jake Blues voice]"How much for the Children? I want to buy your little girls! How much for the little girls?"[/Jake Blues voice]

Gearz

I was concerned about the end link binding as well when I looked at using the ST brackets with my Advance Design shocks. Here's how I handled it:

http://www.gearz.org/Fun/Proje...r.htm

-Brian Meyer

KaBlammyman

i have the bar for an 84-87 CRX on my teg. It fit so easily, no modding necessary. ST makes a good product.

Louie B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gearz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was concerned about the end link binding as well when I looked at using the ST brackets with my Advance Design shocks. Here's how I handled it:

http://www.gearz.org/Fun/Proje...r.htm

-Brian Meyer</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, that is just WAY too clean!!!

Nice job

Tyson

excellent analysis and solution! nice pics too. can you offer making more brackets? (the ones to the shock)

ryan12321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">excellent analysis and solution! nice pics too. can you offer making more brackets? (the ones to the shock)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd be interested as well. Where does that top bolt go on the bracket?

Tyson

i tihnk he drilled and tapped the hole in the bracket. seems reasonable.

Gearz

I used a shallow headed socket head cap screw on the upper bolt. I match drilled the hole in the shock leg using the bracket as a guide. I am somewhat concerned about the reduced strength of the leg, but since the load is primarily in compression I don't think there will be a problem. A tapped hole could be used but the stress concentrations from the threads would be higher than a smooth hole. The bolt does see a tension load and the aluminum threaded hole may not have enough strength to handle it.

It would be difficult for me to make more brackets. Not impossible, but the shop I did them in is about an hour's drive away. They would be relatively easy to recreate using common tools. Just start with some 1/4" thick steel strap 2.25" wide, lay out the flat pattern and drill the holes, bend the strap 90 deg (could use a hammer and vise), round off the corners using a grinder and you're done.

-Brian Meyer



Modified by Gearz at 9:04 AM 3/26/2004

Louie B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importboi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i get an overall shot im very interested in adding a sway bar to my car

88 standard =\</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had my car on the lift today so I took a couple more.

importboi22

thanks!

Andy Hollis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had considered doing what you did and swinging it over to the stock sway bar mount location but was concerned about possible binding of the heims at teh angle. My other concern is that by moving the mount farther inboard on the arm than it was designed, you are changing the motion ratio or reducing the sway bar rate at the wheel thus requiring it to be adjusted stiffer and losing effectiveness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lee,

I'm not sure that's the case. At least, not on the 89+ cars. Here's why:

The bracket that mounts to the lower shock bolt moves the attachment point for the heim joint inboard an inch or so. So, it already scribes an arc that is of a smaller radius (lever arm) than the shock bottom. If you flip the bracket over and mount it instead to the OE sway bar hole, the heim joint ends up in almost the same place! It still scribes the same arc. So, the *effective* motion ratio is unchanged.

Thoughts?

--Andy