Cameron52

I have a 91 Accord semi daily driven (when not at school) that currently has

ebay intake w/ hks filter; ebay test pipe
megan racing header; port/polished intake plenum
custom lexan thottle body and intake plenum gaskets/spacers
ebay front and rear tower bars; ebay rear subframe brace
custom hood prop; slightly lightened
ebay ss braided brake lines

and 230k on it. This summer I will be taking it to High Plains Racing http://www.highplainsraceway.com/ for a open track day. In preparation I'm going to definitly

replace spark plug tube seals; replace timing belt and water pump
replace oxygen sensor; upgrade to pulstar plugs
auto-rx engine cleaner http://www.auto-rx.com/fasttrack-sludge.shtml
p12 ecu; modified ebay catch can
8lb chassis foam http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
skunk2/bilstein/tokico springs and shocks (best deal i can find)
further lightening; synthetic oil and trans fluid, 91 octane
powerstop rotors; modified ram air ducting
power seat belt delete; brake ducts
a/c delete

Chassis Foam

Does anyone have experience foam filling a chassis? Do the rails have to be cleaned with alcohol prior for best bonding? I have heard 8lb has the best results with less risk of bulging the rails due to less expansion. I have also read some areas are better left unfoamed to avoid transferring energy to body panels and deforming them, but not which areas these are. I am less concerned about this as the body isn't perfect and don't think I have enough grip to create forces of this magnitude. Also does anyone know if there are any wires in the rails of a 91 Accord?

Lightening

I already removed the sound deadening in the trunk using a torch and putty knife followed by paint thinner. I'll be doing the rest of the car this summer. What are other techniques for removal. How easy is using dry ice, will it come up with one go or leave bits and residue to get? I know time attack cars will cut certain areas of the chassis out that are not critical, does anyone know which sections these are? There are "wings" (pics tomorrow) in the trunk I feel could be cut.

Power Belt Removal

I want to ditch my power belts for 92/93 manuals or ebay 4pts. I'm leaning to a seat belt bar/ b-pillar brace with ebay 4pts. Are seat belts something to buy from ebay? I have heard the 4x4 utv guys have had luck with them but nothing about auto related. I feel mounting would be the biggest concern. I want to go this way for less fabrication as i have seen 92/93 swaps require modifying/adding mounting points.

Ram Air

I still have the oem ducting in place and it leads to the area directly in front of the filter boxed in by battery/fender/hood. I recently removed the outer fender liner and revealed more of the ducting which leads to a large box behind the passenger blinker, but have yet to remove the bumper to reveal the rest. Has anyone modified their factory airbox/ducting to work as a ram air? I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the bumper, then the box as well as adding scoops to the box. Even if it does suck water it has to travel 6 to 10 inches up and its not directly into the intake.

Brakes

The biggest problem with the car now is the brakes fade quickly during spirited driving. I have powerstop rotors to install and will add ducts. For the ducts I'm thinking heater hose, 2 per side. Any input? Are there any other tips to reduce brake temps without upgrading major components? Last summer I flushed with valvoline dot 3 and 4. Should new rotors and ducts keep my temps in a acceptable range? With the rears, I was going to swap to discs, but heard the performance gain is minimal, it's mostly a cosmetic choice. Is this true? If so, I'll stick with my drums.

Chassis Riveting

Ideally I would like to stitch weld the chassis while i have it stripped down, but don't have access to a welder, so instead I've been pondering riveting instead. My concerns are do the rivets hold over time, and are they tight enough to make a difference? I've heard the advantage is the metal won't contort due to heat. I've heard of nutserts, but would prefer conventional for cost. If I where to go this route, how far are the rivets spaced? I've seen both tight and sparse.

Lastly, Any other advice to a first time track-goer and car?

Thanks for your time and please don't say any of the above isn't worth my time, as I enjoy any time spent working on my car.

chargeR

No. Don't do all that stuff. Seriously.

Do the things related to engine reliability (timing belt etc.), use a higher temp brake fluid (I use RBF600, it does the job), get some decent pads for the front. The rear drums will be fine, check that all the rest of the suspension is in good working order and there is no need to make any suspension changes if the OEM stuff still works.

Chassis rigidity and lightening the car are not relevant to a novice, you won't know the difference. The harness mounting you mention is unsafe, and fitting the manual 3 point belts seems ghetto. Just stay with what you have.

Also this thread is going to make dirty19 angry haha.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

All of the above is a complete waste of time for someone who is a novice and has zero track experience.
You might enjoy working on your car (which we all do) Its a labor of love.
However you have no earthly clue what changes to your car do.
You have to learn to drive it bone stock and get alot of seat time.
One track day does not a driver make.
Drive it to its absolute limits over a long period of time, then consider changing parts.
Go fast parts dont make a car go fast, its the driver that makes a car go fast.

I think you should go back and read the faq.. Decide if you want to join a santioning body, and pick one. Do you want to autocross, Time attack, just do track days?
Read further ,yes you have to read.
Im sorry theres no way around it, I dont even think they have pod casts of what you need to do, so reading is something you should become accustomed to.
Each santioning body has rules. When you have decided what you want to do, read ,read ,read ,read their rules so you know whats legal to do to your car, instead of doing something to your car that will disqualify you from a class.

Riveting instead of stitch welding.. really? somehow I can only picture a car looking like swiss cheese. IDK..........

Sounds like you have done some homework already with your perposed upgrades but what you describe is overkill for your experience level.

Caution before you post again... read read read.. search the forum.
Use google for what ever you want to know about, and use honda tech in the search thread.
If you ask how to set up a car or what tires, brakes, spherical bearings, ipod adapters to use I hope you have a flame resistant suit because the flaming will commence.


Why we dont have a forum mentor program is beyond me.

but this site will help you figure more out on your own. Very good resources and a member here.
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/b...or/granracing/

rice_classic

Shoot, I'm putting my 190K mile, bone stock Prelude on the track next weekend with OEM brakes and siped all season tires so my buddy can just get some track time.

Seriously.. It's a 91 Accord. Don't do all that work. Put your helmet on, click the seatbelt tight and listen to your instructor.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Exactly!