BLU CIVIC

what are you guys thoughts on this. anyone use it? about to get another oil pan and considered purchasing this.

http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-O...P2836C455.aspx

Atmosfear

iTrader: (18)

Do you already have another pan you plan to use? Are you capable of welding it in yourself?

If no to both of those questions, just buy a Moroso 5.5qt pan. After buying your spare pan, the password baffles, and paying someone to weld it you wont save much and the Moroso will be a better pan.

Be sure to get the one with the "kicked out sump" and trap door/baffling system. I think its part #20910 but do a search to be sure. We have talked about it recently.

BLU CIVIC

i need to get another pan b/c of my return line, but had planned to pay someone to put that baffle in if it turned out to be a good buy. with that Moroso i'll still have to get my return line welded b/c the location it comes it shows won't work.

Atmosfear

iTrader: (18)

A return line is pretty simple to make. I wouldnt let that determine your oil pan selection.

known

iTrader: (1)

I just finished mine yesterday. $30 bucks for the kit, oil pan from motor, welded for free.

Moroso 5.5 qt is pretty expensive but very nice.

I had a street moroso with baffles that worked well when it didnt leak so I assume performance wise this will work just as well as that did.

Lo-Buck EF

i went the moroso route. 5.5qt, return for a turbo, baffles and trap doors

Atmosfear

iTrader: (18)

There are additional fittings for oil temp sensor, etc. as well.

I paid somewhere around $250-300 for my pan from Summit. You can certainly baffle a pan for much cheaper, especially if you do it yourself.

But like I said, since you are talking about buying an extra OEM pan, paying for the baffles, then paying someone to weld them in, it will still be cheaper than the Moroso but at that point I would just kick out the extra money.

You'll have a better pan and much less hassle. You could also sell your OEM pan to recoup some of the money spent.

kungfuSiR

iTrader: (1)

Running a Moroso here as well. In terms of quality haven't had any issues picked it up only for $200-$300 bucks which was well worth the effort of picking up another stock pan and welding my own baffles.

Plus I like the pan design of the Morosso and the extra bungs for my Oil Return and Oil Temp sensors.

E-AT_me

i have a moroso pan also but had to get the temp sender location re-located cause the sender would have hit my torsien bar.. although, i think i'm the only one that will ever have that issue...

Super79Dave

I know this is gonna be a little ghetto but i am cheap.
I went to the instruction page for baffle install. printed the instructions took it to my photo copier at work and enlarged the picture portion 128% was about right. Cut out the template transfered it to a hard piece of carboard and then transfered to a piece of steel. I then cut the piece of steel out and shaped it until it fit inside the pan just the way i wanted it to. I used the instructions/template for the side pieces as well worked great.
For welding though i decided you didn't want to impede drain back and did not close up the sides/ends. just tacked in places for strenght.
Ran this pan for 2 seasons but have since moved on to the moroso.

BLU CIVIC

baffle, oil pan, and welding would cost me around $80. paying 3x that for a Moroso isn't very attractive. i'll run this set-up and and see how it does.

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

Looks like the same thing as the FLP baffles, but with an added pair of baffles on the vertical axis.
I've run the FLP baffles in my oil pan(s) for years with great success. I like the weld in kits rather than the Moroso's due to oem fitment of the flange to gasket to block, oem oil pick up, steel is easier and usually cheaper to find people who can weld it vs. alum, lastly the price is about a tenth of what the Moroso unit costs.

The FLP or PWJDM baffles are $30. Buy a used pan in good shape if you don't have time or the luxury of removing the pan of your car and taking your sweet *** time prepping and welding it. Pay someone a six pack or a few bucks to weld the plates in. Sell your old pan to recoup the money you paid for the 'extra' one you bought and you're the door for $30 + beer.

known

iTrader: (1)

good points made by all i think. the 5.5 qt moroso race pan is awesome and a much better piece but as some have said its a lot cheaper to do it the way some of us have done it. if i was going to buy a nice pan i would probably buy the canton race pan over moroso anyway.

Atmosfear

iTrader: (18)

^^^I asked the question about Canton vs. Moroso a while back and I received unanimous advice to get the Moroso.

From what I have heard the Canton pan is nothing but trouble.

known

iTrader: (1)

everyone im sure has their opinions between the two. this is just my opinion and i decided to just use an oem pan with the baffles so i wouldnt have to worry about fitment.

descartesfool

Here are some pictures of the Mugen pan I use which is the design all the baffle guys have copied. I think there is a significant difference to the Mugen design not properly copied by the guys who simply cut baffles plates out of flat sheet steel. That is the turn down around the edges to help keep the oil from sloshing around. There is also a vertical baffle below the horizontal baffle perpendicular to the length. Have a look and compare. As the pan is an OEM Honda pan, fit is perfect as well. My dyno tuner told me he had seen a hit and miss in terms of aftermarket pans leaking or not. Some Moroso pans leaked, some do not, and same for the few Cantons he had seen.

GSRCRXsi

i have the moroso road race pan (steel, not alum). 5qt capacity and baffled. i think i paid like 250? it was like 5 years ago, im pretty sure i bought it from summit too, and uses the stock pickup. extended qt capacity, steel, baffles, and bungs (with plugs) pre installed for things like oil temp sensor, are what sold it for me.

donut.

The "turn down around the edges" on the mugen piece can be replicated fairly easily. Password and maybe even fastlines unit has the vertical baffles too

Heard moroso's leak. Can't beat oem fitment.

not mine

descartesfool

Pan in the picture would seal better if it had the two dimples each side of the bolt hole like the OEM one to control gasket crush. Look at pics of the Mugen one. Is that even a Honda pan in the picture? In any case, Mugen part can certainly be duplicated easily, but the OP's parts don't do it. So they could be improved upon.