EBTurbo

Its called Kapton tape. It has very good heat properties. It is kind of like the electrical tape of the MIl-spec world.


I used to do Yellow heat shrink and a sharp tip sharpie for my labels. I found inexpensive label makers that will print on heatshink. The heatshirnk is a bit expensive. $25-30 for a 5ft cartridge. But the added "Professionalism" is worth it. Dymo makes the one I have. PM if anyone is interested in custom labels or more info.

EB Turbo

sander

If I balled up my car, that would be the number 1 thing I would do differently from how it is now, among loads of other things.

If you had an intermittent short (one would hope not, however possible) in a race, you're not going to pull over and replace the fuse and head back out. If you had breakers accessible under your switches, or something to that effect, just push the breaker back in after a short and see if it kicks back out, maybe you get lucky, and get through the rest of the race before it blows again. Just an example.

This really could be a cool thread!

sander

Also,

I was doing cross references with Bosch VS BMW / MB Parts today. (nerd score)
I can get you guys these 0 280 130 039 Temp sensors, and the plug and pins associated with using them for 40 bucks each with the plug.

http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/cont.../html/2895.htm

Last one at the bottom.

Can also get the air temp sensors for cheap too, have to double check the price on those.

Also have voltage sheets for these sensors.

sander

civichb20

Hey Casey would you mind do a simple CAD diagram or one you have worked on so I could post for everyone on OP with all the goodies either post here or email it to me at

civichb20@hotmail.com

Thanks,
Charles

Here the shirt you wanted LOL

Ekasey

LOL

Let me see what I can dig up

descartesfool

Agreed that Binder connectors are not the best even though they are used on all the sensors and harnesses supplied by AIM, but they are very small and will accomodate very small diameter cable.

So what would you suggest as a connector to trminate small cales such as used on Active Sensors linear potentiometers: http://www.activesensors.com/pdf/lin...er/cls1300.pdf

Cable outer diameter is 3.2 mm or .125" with 24 gauge wire, so very small.

Also cable is Raychem type 55 with FDR sleeving. Where can you get small quantities of that cable? I tried to source it but had no luck.

And I know SAE rated cable is typically rated at 125C. But do you think 105C is really an issue? Northwire cable has been working fine so far.

descartesfool

Source for Deutsch connectors, terminal blocks, circuit breakers and other wiring stuff.

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/

sander

http://deutschconnector.com/

These guys are awesome, also located on my coast, so shipping is generally very fast.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Charles you really like shirtique dont you.
I wouldnt wear that. Not in public anyway.

civichb20

You know it Paul I think it's my thing I am going to have to give up the CRX it's acting up again.

Ekasey

A DTM series connecter would work just fine.

Small quantities of any of the good stuff is hard to find, but if you know what you're looking for places like EFI would sell you small quantities.

Well they will sell it to me. They actually use a Raychem type 44, I prefer the 55 but there isn;t a huge difference.

If you need some stuff Claude I can get it for you just shoot me an e-mail.

For most applications I would say 105c is fine, but for certain engine bay applications it's eventually going to break down and degrade overtime and probably short internally.

xtrac1

iTrader: (2)

^^

fail-n00b

Ekasey

better then being a rook n00b

descartesfool

Good wiring loom prep thread with many pics here:

http://www.apexspeedtech.com/phpbb/v...st=0&sk=t&sd=a

descartesfool

A couple of very nice professional wiring loom fabrication diagrams with some Deutsch connectors, etc.(not race cars but worthwhile for drawing styles):

http://www.rdstec.com/Shared/Files/cb217-2-003.pdf

http://www.rdstec.com/Shared/Files/ac380-1-010.pdf

http://www.rdstec.com/Shared/Files/cb372-1-011.pdf

http://www.rdstec.com/shared/files/ac100-schematic.pdf

http://www.rdstec.com/Shared/Files/p...-schematic.pdf

Radical SR3 Wiring loom: http://www.tillingmotorsport.com/sit.../SR3wiring.pdf
http://www.tillingmotorsport.com/sit...ingdiagram.pdf

Ekasey

Nice loom overall but there are a few practices I disagree with especially the service loop bullshit, and using "filler" wires. It's a wiring harness not a god damned art show, and if you know what you're doing in your design work you don't need them. not to mention the weight increase

migs

Ekasey, what are you seeing that Im not? The harness with the white wires? What is a service loop? and filler wires?

Jaker

I'm wiring up wheel speed sensors for the Race Logic in my Street Mod Solo II car. I'm using OEM Honda sensors, but they'll be wired directly into the Race Logic ECU. What I'm after is 2 conductor shielded wire with that grey outer sheath shown above. Anyone have a decent source?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Slightly more affordable alternative to DR-25:

http://www.racewireandcable.com/prod...bing/rl150.php

EBTurbo

A service loop is where they will loop the once before they pin it into the connector. This will allow extra wire length in the case there is a crimp failure or if you need to add a splice.

You will use filler wires to fill out certain size heatshrink. Filler wires are used when twisting doesn't come out as nice as it should be, high and low spots. Proper twisting techniques will not make high and low spots. Kaptan Tape is also used to cover high/low spots. filler wires only add to the overall harness weight and overall aesthetics. A proper made harness will never need filler wires. With function comes form.

Hey EKasey, you know neel at Apex, right? ; )

EB Turbo

Ekasey

Like stated above service loops are used for a variety of reason, extra length in case of a failure, strain relief for shitty mechanics who yank on wires etc. If you read that thread you will see pictures of the main ecu connectors with little loops.

In my opinion if a harness is properly designed and constructed you will not need service loops. crimp correctly and appropriately and properly strain relief your harness. If there isn't a proper strain relief available ( sealed hard rubber boot), then provide one by attaching it with a zip tie to something that is rigid.


I'm personally not the biggest fan of Dr-25 there are some better options out there that offer superior abrasion resistance with minimal loss in heat resistance( about 10 deg C if I recall). I will try and dig up the data sheet. Plus I don't like the fact that it doesn't shrink that well.

Jake PM me I can get small quantities of wire. I'm sure you can find it online for a reasonable price though.

Known Neel for a few years.

Jenkinsal2

Is there a faster way to do the twisted wiring? I cant imagine everyone twisting their harness by hand that would take forever.

sander

I'm making a "swap" harness this evening for a 240 sx, with a 07 350 z engine in it, pretty excited to get started, ill snap some pics over the next few days.

s

EBTurbo

Not that I know of. Twisting wires is a very tedious and time consuming part of harness building.

EB Turbo

Jenkinsal2

How do they get such nice ordered twists when using a large bulk of wires?