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Yeah I was looking at that too and figured that was a temporary solution.
I have 4 of the big thick straps I hook to the control arms typically.
I really need to weld some hooks to my car so Im not tugging on the suspension. I would consider doing that as well since you can obviously weld.
no need. all you need is the T-hooks to go into the factory hook locations. if you have an EG/DC, i can send you pix of the locations. then just get the t-hooks from summit and you're in buisness. i bought these because i tow a few differant cars and trucks on my trailer. works great on the civic, caprice, youkon and camaro. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTD-340001/
Go by a local Uhaul and get tire straps. I work at a center out here in MO and they're awesome for locking a car down. I think they're around $20/strap.
wish i had the tools and fab and welding skills for this. i want a trailer similar to this but just a little bit bigger. any idea on the load capacity of this thing? would it be hard to put a spot for stakes to go for the choice of being able to put up sides and what not?
Also, if anyone is looking for a light duty car trailer, consider buying a four place snowmobile trailer. One of the guys in my car club uses one. I wouldn't use it for something over 3000lbs, but a Civic, Miata or other small car would be fine.
Saw the thread got bumped so I'll answer a few Q's and give an update. The trailer has over 5-6k miles on it and will be over 10k miles in a few months. Zero issues. So far I've added a spare tire mount and ramp storage.
Originally Posted by racerdud17
any idea on the load capacity of this thing? would it be hard to put a spot for stakes to go for the choice of being able to put up sides and what not?
It has a little over 3000lb max carrying capacity. It would be really easy to add stake pockets.
Originally Posted by eastcoastbumps
Also, if anyone is looking for a light duty car trailer, consider buying a four place snowmobile trailer. One of the guys in my car club uses one. I wouldn't use it for something over 3000lbs, but a Civic, Miata or other small car would be fine.
Personally I would really stay away from snowmobile trailers. The design is very different with the deck mounted over the wheels. This high CG and narrow track make them very unstable. Not to mention the tiny 10" wheels and tires. Here is a video of a snowmobile trailer crash, note how unstable it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70jjc8Jw9M4
Originally Posted by pj2501
I want to make a similar trailer. Can you provide the Dexter Torflex part numbers for your axles and where you bought them?
When it comes to trailers/parts most of the businesses are regional and don't do much on the internet. I know in my area I absolutely had to call/drive around to get the best deals.
I bought my axles from a place called "redneck trailer supplies". The idler axle was $240 and the braked axle was $380. Both came with EZ lube bearings.
Thanks for the info and thanks for taking the time to post your project online. Awesome DIY project that's very useful for us lightweight car track junkies.
The thing is though that your avg car weight in Europe and the US is very different hence why this style works in most cases, doesn't change the fact that the higher up the more unstable of course. Just wanted to point out it is indeed being used as it was designed (perhaps aside from speed).
towing with a real truck is also a good idea, towing a car with car is not so smart
Depends on the car and load IMHO. A late 90s Cadillac Fleetwood properly equipped came with a 7000lb tow rating from the factory and is probably a better tow vehicle than a lot of trucks. One of the reasons I did the light trailer is that if I ever wanted to tow with a mini van or car I could.
My daily driver is a C5 Vette (which is body on frame BTW), and there used to be a 3500lb hitch made for C5 Vettes but they are long out of production. I have been planning on pulling the rear bodywork to build or modify a hitch strong enough to occasionally make short distance tows with. But I'll probably never get around to it.
Originally Posted by MicahM
That isn't a snowmobile trailer. It is just a very typical auto trailer design in Europe:
The thing is though that your avg car weight in Europe and the US is very different hence why this style works in most cases, doesn't change the fact that the higher up the more unstable of course. Just wanted to point out it is indeed being used as it was designed (perhaps aside from speed).
Wow! That is very interesting. I guess the idea is to keep the trailer as narrow as possible.
I know this is and OLD thread but love the ingenuity in this build and am trying to get a hold of the OP to ask him more questions about his build. I have plans to bild one to the same specs minus the tongue mishap.
I didn't build it.
He is much better at suspension, he has won multiple SCCA Solo national championships and so has his wife using his suspension.
Either way, Reiser asked for other ways of contacting him and that is another way of doing it.
I am racing a Miata this season so I have not been checking HT much. I tend to get the same questions over and over so I will answer Reiser's questions here:
How is it holding up?
The trailer has held up just fine. I have put a TON of miles on it. I race a lot, probably over 20-30 weekends a year. I probably do a dozen 10+ hour tows a year and it has been back and forth from Texas to California 5 times in it's life. The trailer is on it's 4th set of tires, since they are car tires and crazy cheap I have been replacing them every couple of years. I bought one set of tires really cheap and they got a bubble on a 24 hour tow. I replaced all of the lights and put all new bearings and brakes this winter.
I did 2 seasons with the trailer towing EF civics and CRXs, then 2 seasons towing an EP3 and then RSX which are much heavier and this current season towing a Miata. Once I sort of towed a C5 Corvette: https://goo.gl/photos/WEWSSkzBELPzPfQdA
The only other issues have been breaking welds on the ramps. I have one of the rungs pinned down for transit and every few years the vibration breaks the welds. My fenders are pretty mangled from bumping into them while loading/unloading.
And the 7" brakes need new magnets yearly.
2x3 rectangular box for your main outside rails? What thickness? 1.5 for the runners? What thickness? Your deck tred .120 thick?
The main outer structure is 3x1.5 11ga
The interior structure is 1.5x1.5 and 1.5x5 both 11ga
The decking is 16ga steel diamond plate with angle iron braces underneath the tires
Originally Posted by dirty19
Id hope he would improve that soon so more people could find out what kind of wares he sells.
I'm all for supporting small business.
Yeah my website sucks. Currently I have more demand than what I can produce. When that changes I will make the website better.
So I started on the trailer Last Sunday the 11th. Working on it only after work for a gew hours a night..
All tacked up. All welded with runners on it. Fiting fenders All loaded up, still needing paint lights and tiedown points.
trailer is 13x6 with 16" runners.
Main frame is 2x3 11 ga.
And inside is 1 1/2 11 ga.
The diamond tread is 14 ga.
3500 torsion axle
42" tongue
To lazy to flip the trailer over, just checking weight for axle placement.
I think I will have about $1100 in it maybe a little more
02-23-2012, 08:10 AM
Re: Lightweight Trailer Build
If you can put something on there with specs , I'm sure people here would show more interest.
