K20A_EH

Let me know what you all think....KEEP THEM OR SELL/TRADE THEM??

My currant setup::::
Koni 8041-RACE spss3 shocks
(rear shocks are ball mount bottom..ITR sepc)
Ground Control -sleeves-
Front: ERS 6" 700lbs springs 2.5" i.d.
Rear: ERS 6" 600lbs springs 2.5" i.d.
2 Ground Control top hats

this is what im thinking about switching to::::
PIC -select full coilovers (bottom adjustable)
FRONT: 14K springs
REAR: 12k springs

i also have ITR sway bars... asr brace.... special projects trailing arm bearings.... buddyclub front camber kit with orijin bushings.... M-factory rear camber kit and toe arms
and 1998 GSR crossmember and steering rack

K20A_EH

has anyone here switched from koni's to pic's or vis versa.... what did you think of your choice...

I am alot more interested in people that track there cars....opinions

blaak-crx

KEEP! Koni is a proven product on the race track! You can't go wrong with Konis. Why sell something that is already very good. BTW, I would switch around your coils. (stiffer in the rear and softer in the front)

I have never tried PIC, so can't say much about it but Koni is bang for the buck set-up.

K20A_EH

i have no understeer with my spring rate setup.... but i have staggered wheels 15x7.5+30 in front 15x7 +40 in rear ... this wheel setup really makes the car rotate ... but i dont like the fact that my springs sit loose... (i have the springs adjusted down 1/2" all around) with gc top hats in rear... the rear shocks are not close to being short enough

blaak-crx

They sit loose? Got a pict.? Perhaps you need helper springs to keep them tight?

Yellow spring:

TunerN00b

If you have a rear swaybar, you have no reason to worry about the spring being loose. The swaybar will keep you from fully unloading either spring, as long as at least 1 rear tire is on the ground.

Only time you need to worry about that is dropping the car off of a jack. Even then, mine only fail to seat correctly maybe once in 30 times, and bouncing the trunk slightly (by hand) seats the spring from there.

hondaboy4life

Weren't some HC cars winning on PIC's? If so then that sounds like race proven to me... I switched from kyb agxs/GC's to PIC selects and I absolutely love every bit of them from build quality to performance.

Johnny Mac

Who knows, maybe they were winning because they had talent, or maybe they had power, or possibly they had a good setup, or maybe a combination of things, or maybe just maybe the competition wasn't too good. Don't assume that just because someone or even a couple of people were winning that you can say that it was thanks to the dampers they used. I know people on the west coast Honda Challenge were winning with blown dampers and some others were winning even though their cars weren't setup very well. And the west coast is known to have some excellent driving talent, so why were they winning?

Tyson

hater.

Johnny Mac

Who let you out of the suspension forum? Oh I get it, since someone asked a suspension question in the rr/ax forum then that's fair game. As far as me being a hater, there's no evidence of that. Hmmmm

Tyson

touche, tall socks, touche...

K20A_EH

ok so about these helper springs.... are they just really soft springs that bind when the car has weight and extend to keep the spring in its place?

i was also thinking about sending my rears in to get shortened 1"

solo-x

you'll find that only guys that had a bad experience with one brand or the other will really have an opinion here. them and the lemmings. I've been a die hard Koni guy, and really like the Konis. My concern with PIC is in the cost of the dampers they sell. It is hard to get a quality adjuster into an adjustable damper for the price they are charging. Needle/seat adjusters are much cheaper, but result in a damping curve/adjustment range that is less ideal then what is available in other dampers on the market. I'd love to be proven wrong, but haven't been able to find shock dyno's and design white papers on the PIC stuff.

ps. If the guys from PIC are up for it and wanted to send me a set of dampers/springs, I could do a back to back comparison of them versus my Koni RACE experience and current Koni 2812s. I'd send the dampers back once I was done with them, unless of course their performance was enough to make me want to switch....

Ekasey

Some might beg to differ....

But on the other hand I fully agree with Johnny Mac's first post

Tyson

hey, im officially a racer again.

K20A_EH

are the 8041-race shocks more for auto-x or road racing?

vietnameeh

both

K20A_EH

dos anyone know the cost it would be to shortend 2 shocks... or would this be a bad idea...

blaak-crx

These are pre-shortened and pre-race valved units! Like my photo above. The right one is the Sport Koni, the left is the Koni 8041-RACE spss3 (for Crx)

Pompiuses

Like to know as well...

solo-x

yes

Lo-Buck EF

8041s should outperform most OTS shocks out there. i'd stick with them.

STN_Pat

Sell me the race koni units if you want ! I had some back in the days, and I miss them everyday.

Johnny Mac

Helper springs are very soft springs that block out at static ride height. On the other hand, tender springs are generally shorter than the main spring, but they have spring rates in the ~100 to ~250 lb. range and are available in both linear and progressive windings. With linear tenders, you will get a basic dual rate spring system due to the fact that the tenders will block-out before the suspension travel is used up and once it blocks out, the main spring takes over. Tuning with tenders is much more difficult than tuning with one main linear spring. You need to specify the length of the tender and its rate, and consequently this adds a couple of more variables into the already complex handling equation. For all but maybe one percent of the racers, a simple main spring setup is preferred due to the relative simplicity of suspension setup and the lower cost of both components and testing expenses.

solo-x

put me in the 1% then. You're right on the added complexity and additional testing required. It's worth it though. Especially if you use a torsen style lsd.