Bsmith1010

Hello all,

I'm running a Fluidyne 2 core half size radiator and FAL shroud and fan on my EK hatch, the car will be taken to many NASA HPDE events and I was looking for some input on half size rads for track use. Would this radiator keep the car cooled enough on a hot track day? Is there an increase in cooling from a full size rad compared to half size, or is it more complicated than that? I recently purchased a DC2 Mishimoto full size radiator and so on to throw in the car to run a full radiator, but I am unsure if I wanna go through the hassle of throwing it in there for now. Just looking for opinions.

ross2004

Run a full size, it'll save you from needing to build duct work to close off the area in the core support left open by a half size.

boxedfox

I would vote to run the full size radiator as well. Fluidyne makes fantastic radiators and I'm sure it will give you the lowest engine temps possible from a half size rad. But the full size radiator will give you betterr heat exchanging properties for less work.

iwannarace

You're probably fine for now with the half rad if you're just starting out, but eventually you'll want to optimize the airflow through the half rad by building some duct work, or it may be easier to just switch to the full rad. My 185whp b18c was too much for a half rad in 100+ degree heat after 15 minutes once i learned how to really push it.

Bsmith1010

Really? Wow thats good to know. My car is BONE stock just a stock b16a2 with basic bolt on's and a stock NON LSD trans with a stock final. I'm sure it isn't making much pow pow haha. And yes I know I need an LSD, I am just taking it slow. Gotta learn to go fast first. This will be my third event in HPDE 1, but first in this car. I heard from a buddy who ran a turbo'd B series in HPDE that his car only got hot on super hot days on track, but the thing was turbo'd so I am sure that adds to the problem.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

B16 motor full size DC2 Mishimoto with one fan (switched) EG hatch
Plenty of cooling for the car on any hot day.
Better to go overboard than to find out you need more.

Dublocivic

What engine/power output?
I have the CSF K-swap V3 full size on a K24 ~260whp and I am actually needing to make sectional block-offs to get it up to operating temp with ambient temps in the 60-70 F range. I have not run it yet at a 90'F track day but it kind of makes a difference what your typical ambient temp is where you'll be tracking the car. I can block of half of the rad at 60-70'F ambient and ECTs will cycle 190-->180 with the fan fwiw.

I forgot to mention, fuel plays a role too. I found that I am running 20-30 degrees cooler when I am running E85 opposed to 93-110. I was pretty amazed at the difference the E85 made.

OGNAEG

iTrader: (1)

Back in the day I was running a full size integra radiator on my B16 with bolt ons and never had any issues with temps. Originally never ran the half size since I had no AC on the car but I know from experience if your running a stock unit they sometimes take a crap because the end tanks are plastic and they are clamped down onto the core. Mine went after a few months but I sourced an integra unit that had the end tanks welded to the core and never had issues after like 2 years of use (sold the car by then). Just throwing that out there if your budget is an issue.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

Like others mentioned, It depends where you live and your power output. If you're in Texas like me, that half size radiator is going to be pushed to it's limits in the summer with 90+ degree days.

When I first started tracking I had a half rad, spal fan and 300hp turbo. On any day over 75 degrees the temps would start to creep up.

If you already have the full size, just put it in. Better safe than sorry. I'd hate to miss track time because I didn't do a little work before hand.

OGNAEG

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention I lived in south Florida at the time, lots of heat and humidity. I know when my first radiator took a dump I was literally letting the car just idle for a long period of time. I think we just pulled up to my buddies house and just parked her and we started talking etc. IT was definitely not under heavy driving. Once it blew then I upgraded to a unit with welded end tanks.

killerpenguin21

what area of the country are you in? even in the northeast we get some hot *** weekends at the track. think it was almost 90 degrees the last two years we raced at lime rock, it took me 10 minutes to get out of the car after a 30 minute race even with a coolshirt...i held a max water temp of 205 and oil was in the 280 range on a mishimoto full size. have since added a lot more cooling.

i just wouldnt risk a half rad on track at any level, your at risk of losing track time. heat is the enemy.

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

you make me want to go home and build the ducting I have been neglecting for a while... the B18C5 is running warmer than the old B20... I suspect its the extra RPMs

OGNAEG

iTrader: (1)

I think the point of all this is really going bigger isn't going to hurt. Yes it may take longer to warm up and get to operating temps but if your running a road course for long periods of time the larger surface area is just going to keep things cooler. Longevity wise it wouldn't be a bad idea to get solid unit, like with end tanks welded. Don't have to go spend $500 bucks for something solid in my opinion. The unit I used was pretty good and it did its job. Leave it up to you.

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

As long as your thermostat works, its going to take the same amount of time to warm up.

spoolin2bars

I think what he was getting at was that as your experience goes up, so will your time at wide open throttle. So, you might be okay right now, but later on you may need to add ducting or the full size radiator. Not necessarily due to your power level. I'm going with a good half size due to the turbo. But I will be ducted, distilled water/water wetter, high pressure cap, splitter, etc..

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

FYI I had all of what you listed above with turbo and it was not enough. If you don't already have a new radiator, fit the biggest one you can. Half size with turbo WILL NOT be enough, I promise.

spoolin2bars

Well, I hope it is, because if not I'll have to go full custom. Reason I think it might work is that my good friend had an EG hatch with the same motor/turbo setup, no ducting, and we both drove his car on the hottest day of the year, with no overheating. that's 2 out of 3 20 min. sessions for a total of 8 by the end of the day. Also, i'm running TT and time attack, so 1 warm up, 1 blast, 1 cool down. Turbo size and psi matter also. But thanks, I'm prepared to do whatever it takes, I just already have a good half size made for a CRX with b series swap, so i'm gonna try it. I see you know about Tx heat!!! FYI, check out my Texas Honda FF Challenge page on fb. Whoever posts the fastest lap at any Texas track gets a nice trophy and some Honda swag at the end of the year.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

That's what mine is. I am using this reasonably priced griffin dual pass unit on my 90 hatch tucked under the hood latch. It works flawlessly and is a great starting point for a custom unit. I had to customize the end tanks and build a swirl pot for the cap. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-2-58185-X

OGNAEG

iTrader: (1)

I like the post above, solid radiator set up nicely mounted for under $300. Don't think you need to spend $500 on some of the units out there - definitely options in the 200-300 range that will work great.

Dilbones

stock N/A HPDE car with no drafting.

Solutions:
1.) take a piece of sheet metal and place it next to the half rad. no additional ducting required when i ran a d series (Yeah I know, it's just a D)
2.) eBay full-size rad. One of the H2 racers I know did this and was fine.

Just send it and if the temp creeps, pull off track and cut power. When in paddock you can make ducting out of gorilla tape.

I put corrugated plastic sheets where the a/c condenser used to go. They also make an OEM piece to block this off for the 92-95 Civics without AC:

spoolin2bars

Sweet looking setup! I was planning on doing something similar to mount the bumper/splitter/intercooler. How does your intercooler do on track? I have a bigger one on it right now, but I have one just like yours sitting in my garage. My buddy was saying I should use the smaller one instead. I was worried about heat soak, but then again, I'm only doing TT and Time attack so it might not be an issue.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

I've never had an issue at my current HP level (305) but I don't know if I'd push much more than 400 on it. It's a 24x6x3 Spearco bar plate core. How big is your current one? What kind of core?

Bsmith1010

Its a stock b16a2 with an em1 trans making stock power I assume or less, PLM toda rep header, buddy club spec 2 exhaust, and an AEM intake. Everything else is stock. The car is also not on e85, just 93. And I am in NASA Mid Atlantic so its pretty hot here during the summer time haha.

Dublocivic

Personally, I like to over build for worst case scenario. It would probably be best to go with a full size and then any mods moving forward the cooling will be gtg. I am also in NASA-MA, I went full sized and have been happy with it.

Chance EG

Piggybacking this as I'm in a similar boat. Building a personal EG Si as a weekend warrior/AutoX/Casual track car. Has been a long build with many setbacks due to time/money.

• Go-Autoworks triple core half rad with shroud, Spal fan, high pressure cap
• AC is still in place, full interior, etc.
• Wrapped headers
• 93 Octane

Car is going to be CSS LSVtec N/A (220-230WHP), forged internals. I am planning on running an oil cooler in one of the slots for OEM fog lights. I am also planning on cutting a slot for direct air in the bumper, ducting to the radiator.

Any thoughts on if this would survive ~15 minute runs in Texas heat? I have no plans on ever racing competitively, but I wanted to start doing something other than just short blasts with AutoX. There are a couple tracks near me that I will attempt, but not sure what I should be expecting in the way of heat.

My only other option I can think of without having to sacrifice AC would be running water/meth injection (E85 is basically non-existent in Texas). Just trying to get an idea of what I should expect once I get the car to the track.