Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion - FAQ: Road Racing/Autocross Forum

The refreshed FAQ is back! Some of this I am quoting from .RJ's old one, some is new (as some of the previous information is now outdated). Thanks to Ryan for putting this all together back in the day. :) There will also be updates as I go along, as there is too much information to post all in one sitting.

Due to the huge amount of posts addressing the same basic, general topics, the FAQ has returned. New posts that can be answered by links/information covered here will be closed and directed to read this first. If after going through the information covered here you still can't find the answer, post away, we will be happy to help.

The current RR/AX moderators are: Chad, jaa1311, Ponyboy, sander, Smitdog, stinkycheezmonky, vinuneuro

FORUM GUIDELINES:

- Do not incite riots or instigate fights. Please do not refrain from spirited discussions but do not intentionally post antagonistic or inflammatory remarks directed at another member. Offending content will be removed and points docked.

- This forum is for the discussion of Road Racing and Autocrossing as well as other forms of sanctioned motorsports, and HPDE/Open Track/Track Days events. Please refrain from posting your illegal or poorly rationalized exploits unless it is intended to teach a lesson. This includes drag racing, street racing, drifting, too-gay (some of you spell it "touge") or canyon carving - If you do, we will quickly make you an example of what not to do. We do not condone any behavior that places yourself, or others at risk. We encourage everyone to keep their racing at an appropriate and safe venue. Posts on those topics will be deleted and user rating points docked.

- *********Search!!!******** This is the most important 'rule'. Use the search function first, before you ask questions. Reply in an existing thread rather than posting a new one. There is a ton of information here, and its either likely been covered before or will give you a head start. Redundant posts on frequent topics will be locked.

With the new Vb format, the method of searching has changed a bit. Here's a brief tutorial to return the best results:
**Start the CORRECT search by selecting "Advanced Search" from the Search drop-down menu**
1. Type in a generic search term, like "suspension." If you type in "suspension 1995 EJ9 coilovers" you'll return squat.
2. Select "Search Titles Only" to limit the results. Otherwise, you'll get 76% of all the threads ever made in the RR/AX forum.
3. In the lower right "Search in Forum(s)" box, select "Road Racing/Autocross" to further limit the results to the type of topic you're looking for.

Alternatively, if you are more informed on the subject you're trying to find, you can use more specific search terms, such as "koni shocks" or "225/45-15" or whatever.

When using combinations of words, try to list them in the order they'd appear in a thread or title, and enclose them in quotation marks the way that you would when searching Google.

As a last resort, you can use Google to search Honda-Tech by using the site: command on Google.

If you're lazy and say, "I know this has been covered, but I'm lazy and don't want to search for XXX" I'll lock your topic. I will then send to your home a midget named Frank, who will proceed to shave off your eyebrows.

-No bumping. Makes a mess out of things. If the topic isnt active enough to stay on the first page, it probably wasnt that interesting anyways.

- Posts appropriate for other forums will be moved (I will notify via PM). Example - "I'm looking for an exhaust/spring/intake/etc setup for my (insert car here)" will be moved to the appropriate forum where the question can best be answered. This forum is also not a catch-all for suspension questions - ask in the forum for your vehicle unless the question is specifically autocross/track related.

- For sale items can be posted in the RR/AX FS thread, stickied at the top of the forum. Do not make separate threads for whatever you're selling. PM me if you have something weird going on that may require something more individual. Note: used Koni Yellows do not qualify as "something weird."

- No commercial ads - site sponsor information here: https://secure.rely.net/ht-ads/ (I don't necessarily like this, and I know there's a lot of controversy over this with certain users, but that is the rule).

- This IS the RR/AX forum, and we generally tell it like it is. You will not be coddled here. If you're really being an ignorant ass, you'll hear about it. Despite all that, we try to be a helpful bunch, and if you behave respectfully, you'll see respectful responses. "If you can't take the heat, stay out of the kitchen," describes the overall attitude pretty well, I think.

Onto the information!

HPDEing/What is an HPDE? http://news.drivenasa.com/hpde/
There are other organizations that hold similar events (track days), which will vary based on your region. There will be a fairly comprehensive list of groups at some point here, broken down by region. The big-name groups that tend to cover large/National areas:
-NASA http://www.nasaproracing.com
-SCCA http://www.scca.com/home.aspx
-BMW CCA http://www.bmwcca.org
-Porsche Club of America (PCA) http://www.pca.org
-Audi Club http://www.quattroclubusa.org
-Mazdadrivers http://www.mazdadrivers.com

Calendars for track days/races with various groups and at various tracks:
http://www.justracing.com/calendar.php
http://www.trackschedule.com

Autocrossing/What is Autox? http://www.sfrscca.org/solo2/faq/auto.htm
There are literally hundreds of groups that host autocrosses. I cannot possibly begin to make a list of them for that reason. SCCA is generally the largest presence for autoxing, and is for sure the most nationally followed organization/series in the country. If you want to get started or find other groups near you, go to a local SCCA event and start talking to people. Typically most of those drivers will know of other local groups.

Preparing for your first HPDE/Autocross event:
-Register in advance (typically required)
-Make sure your car is safe BEFORE arrival. This means, tires that aren't balding/cording, brakes that have material left on the pads and rotors that aren't cracked, and suspension arms that aren't falling off. You would also want the seats to be firmly bolted down. Basic stuff, but you'd be surprised what turns up at some events.
-Pack your helmet, whatever clothes are necessarily (a long-sleeve shirt, pants, and closed-toed shoes are the basics), food, water, spare parts, etc. A checklist will ensure that you don't forget anything. Doing this the night before you leave will also give your brain time to remember that last thing that you forgot.
-Show up to the event early or at least on-time. Show up late, and at best you'll receive a scolding and will have to rush through registration, unpacking, etc. At worst, you won't be allowed to participate. Have all papers, helmet, ID, and whatever else is required at-hand to make this process smooth. If anything is unclear, ask one of the registrars or organizers. (NOTE: Autocrosses are run differently from track days. You will usually have two heats, with half the group driving in the first half and half the group driving in the second half. When you're not driving, you'll have other duties. Make sure you know what those duties/times are.)
-Go to class! There will usually be a driver's meeting first thing. This is important, even if you're more experienced. Special circumstances are often addressed that you need to know about. After the meeting you'll usually have a classroom thing to attend. That is EXTREMELY important. You'll not only get a card or something that will allow you on-track for your first session, but you'll learn all the basic safety procedures and rules for track driving. You NEED to know this stuff.
-Have fun and enjoy the ride!

Track/Autox site Rules and Etiquette:
There are some basic rules and courtesies you should practice while at the track or autocross lot.
-Don't be a dick. Revving your motor and doing burnouts will not win you popularity points. Racing through the paddock will also have you booted out quickly, as there are women, children, and animals often walking around.
-Pay attention to where you're walking, driving, or parking. It's embarassing and dangerous to suddenly find yourself out on track, or blocking the start of the course. These areas should be marked with cones, signs, paint, etc.
-Be respectful of the property. That means don't litter, don't break stuff, don't steal stuff, and so on. You are there by someone's good grace, show them the proper respect. You trashing a place puts the organization at risk for renting time there again. Then you've spoiled everyone's fun.
-Be respectful of your neighbors. That includes the guy parked next to you and the guy living down the street. Your fellow participants are there to have a good time and because they share your passion. Be nice to them. The guy living down the street could be complaining about noise or dangerous driving, but isn't now. Don't be the one to make him call the authorities.

Random Driving Info:
Basic track driving techniques and skills - http://www.turnfast.com/

Safety Stuff:

ATTENTION!
Harnesses, Bucket/One-piece seats, and Rollbars/Cages are meant to be used together!
If you are asking about using a harness and/or bucket seat WITHOUT rollover protection, you will be immediately directed here. The short explanation:
-The stock system (3-point seatbelt, reclining seat, no rollbar) is designed to work AS a "system." In the event of a rollover, the 3-point belt allows your body to fold over, and the reclining seat can "break" at the hinge (also allowing your body to move), thus preventing you from getting crushed.
-The "race" system (for lack of a better term; harness, one-piece seat, rollbar/cage) is also designed to work AS a "system." In the event of a rollover, the harness and seat will keep you upright, but the rollbar/cage will be there to keep the roof from crushing you.
-If you use the harness and/or seat without a rollbar, a rollover can result in the roof coming down on you while you are held upright. Think of stepping on a soda can, and relate that to what can happen to your spine. That doesn't mean it WILL happen, but honestly, why take that chance? It's your damn SPINE we're talking about. When I dig them up, I'll post pics of rollovers so everyone has a clear idea of how bad that can be.
-If you use a rollbar/cage with the stock reclining seat, ANY collision CAN result in the seat contacting or going under the harness bar, which could then result in your head contacting that same harness bar. Generally, head-metal tubing contact is bad, whether you're wearing a helmet or not (but especially bad if you're not). Again, that doesn't mean it WILL happen, only that it can.
-The "Correct" or "Smart" way of doing this is to put these things in your car AS a system. Don't have enough money to buy them all at once? No problem. Either set the money aside until you do, or buy them piecemeal and leave them out of the car until you have all the components. Some organizations now require all of these things to be present as a system, or else you have to remain completely stock. For competitive racing, the entire "race" system must be present.

-Helmets
First some good threads
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ghlight=helmet
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/helmet.html

In general, there are few rules about buying a helmet. First and foremost is TRY IT ON! A poorly fitting helmet will be both uncomfortable and dangerous. You're wearing this thing for as little as 1 minute (autox), and as long as 30-90 minutes (HPDE/Racing/Enduros). It is absolutely worth a few-hour drive to the nearest race shop to figure out what works best for your noggin. Sometimes a super cheap helmet fits best, so don't immediately discount them.

After size comes rating. Ratings are discussed in the norcalcrx link above. As of now (Year 2009) SA05 should be the latest helmet you would want to purchase. SA10 should be released soon, and in a few years SA00 helmets will no longer be allowed in many organizations. SA95 helmets are already too old. When making a rating choice, you have two options: M and SA. "M" is for "Motorcycle". These are acceptable for most autocross events, and some HPDE events (depending on organization). "SA" is for "Snell Approval". These pass some slightly different tests, and should all have some type of fire resistant/proof liner. For competitive racing, you will need an SA helmet.

There are also two (sort of three) designs to a helmet: Open Face or Closed Face (with the third being kind of a hybrid between the two).
Open face is seen here:
http://www.bellhelmets.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=4892
Closed face seen here:
http://www.bellhelmets.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=4888
This is to some extent personal preference. I know several people who start to feel claustrophobic in a closed face helmet, and so opt for the open face. A lot of autoxers also opt for the open face for whatever reason. I personally am a proponent of closed face helmets, because I've had all kinds of crap hit my visor. Bugs, rocks, melted tire rubber, whatever. The idea of getting ANY of that in my eyes is enough to make me wear some type of eye protection, whether it's a visor or sunglasses.

Quality and unique features are another thing you'll want to pay attention to. The cheaper helmets are cheap for a reason: quality is lower, material used is not as nice. That doesn't mean they won't protect you just as well (the M/SA rating guarantees that), but they might not be as comfy, and things like the liner might shred/fall apart sooner. The unique features would be something like the forced air helmets, where there are inlets for some type of blown air ventilation. This is again personal preference. I'm fine without that, but my brother could really use it. There are also a variety of different visors available, including smoked, mirrored, amber, etc.

-Harnesses
Street legality: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=harness
Some mounting information: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=harness
Some more mounting information, Schroth specific but applicable as general guidelines: http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2...structions.pdf
Mounting how-to: http://www.sandmracing.com/ssabelt.html
Harnesses are another form of a seatbelt; they keep your ass in the seat where it's supposed to be. They typically do this job "better" than a stock seatbelt, but also differently. See the ATTENTION! bit above for some more information about harnesses.
-There are 3-4 types of harnesses:
3-point (both stock and aftermarket)
4-point (shoulder straps and lap belts)
5- and 6-point (shoulder straps, lap belts, and crotch belts [6-point has two crotch belts])
7-point (shoulder straps, lap belts, and 3 crotch belts)
Which one you use is your choice. 3- and 4-point are generally used by either street drivers or autoxers. Most tracking organizations do not allow these, and require either the stock seatbelt or a 5-7 point harness. The lack of a crotch strap can result in submarining, where your body can slide under the lap belt and squish itself into the footwell. This is possible because the shoulder straps won't allow your body to fold over the lapbelt. Schroth makes a certain type of 3- and 4-point harness with an inertia reel, similar to what is mounted on the B-pillar/door of a stock car. They also make an ASM shoulder belt that sort of allows the same thing. Basically, that design DOES allow your body to fold over the lapbelt, and should keep you from submarining.

There are also various safety ratings for harnesses, with the two US-applicable ones being "FIA" and "SFI". FIA harnesses are legal for 5-years, SFI harnesses are legal for 2-years (for competition). Some HPDE organizations now follow that rule, and some do check the dates on belts (there is a tag on the belt that has a date "stamp"). Regardless of the organization, these things must be kept in good shape. If they are torn or frayed, they're garbage.

Harnesses are also designed to be used ONCE! That means if you get in an accident/hit a wall, they're garbage. The reason for this is that the webbing is designed to stretch a certain amount in an impact. After stretching, they can't stretch again. There are some companies that offer re-webbing services, which can be cheaper than purchasing a complete new harness.

-Seats
There are stock seats, there are aftermarket reclining seats, and there are one-piece seats. Stock seats are...stock. Some are better than others for spirited driving, with higher/tighter bolsters and so on. Popular Honda options are ITR seats (the material is different, and the seat foam is actually different), Del Sol seats, and JDM Recaros. Seats are like helmets; they come in different sizes, and fit people differently. The JDM seats are made for tiny Japanese people, and so won't comfortably fit the average 250lb American. The same applies to one-piece seats. Some are skinny, some are short, some are tall, and some are wide. Also like a helmet, your best bet is to go to a shop and sit in a few to see what fits you best. Things you want to consider are shoulder bolster height, shoulder strap hole height, and width. You'll be sitting in this thing a lot, and so want it to be comfy.

There are also generic eBay reclining seats. While it is always your personal choice, I can't stress enough that these no-name companies typically have no kind of safety testing, and generally are garbage. I have been on track as a passenger in a few of these and the experience was horrendous to say the least. The biggest problem I saw was that the hinge mechanisms are weak and poorly constructed. That allows the seat back to move A LOT. Try putting your faith in something like that in a collision. If you want to go with a reclinable seat, pick a known brand name (Sparco, Recaro, etc.) or stick with an OEM offering.

One piece seats have two mounting options: bottom-mount or side-mount. Sounds pretty self-explanatory, right? The holes for physically mounting the seat are either on the bottom of the seat, or on the side. Side-mounts typically allow the seat to be mounted lower than bottom-mounts. Both are legal. There are also aluminum seats available (Kirkey, Ultrashield), and for these you drill your own holes, and so mount them however you want.

There is really only one type of safety approval for seats, and that is FIA. All others are just classified as "non-FIA". For track use, non-FIA seats usually require a backbrace, which is some type of device that braces the seat back against the harness bar. FIA seats are designed to flex, and if kept within their date (5 years) do not require that brace.

-Rollbar/cage
Some basics:
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/rollcage.html
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...light=rollcage
-Track organizations have very specific rules about tubing diameter and wall thickness. You want to figure out what those rules/specifications are, and then get a bar/cage that meets them. As one example, NASA has two different rulesets, one for rollBARS and a different one for rollCAGES. The tubing size is different between the two. Depending on what you intend to do, keep that in mind. Each organization is similar, but might have small differences. Because a bar or cage can be a hassle and expensive, you want to do it right the first time. Pay attention to the details here (DOM tubing, ERW tubing, chromoly, mild steel, vehicle weight, mounting points, footplate sizes, etc.). It can be complicated.

RollBARS are a type of rollover protection that is behind the front seats of a vehicle. It includes a main hoop and rear legs at a minimum. For track use it should also have a diagonal in the main hoop and a harness bar. Additional reinforcements vary.

RollCAGES include the rollbar structure, but add a front structure, that includes front arms and a "halo" design at a minimum, usually also with door bars and a dashbar. Again, further reinforcements vary.

Both bars and cages are available as off-the-shelf bolt-in designs or custom-made weld-in designs. Your purpose will determine what you go with. When properly constructed and mounted in the vehicle, both will offer some degree of increased protection.

For basic bolt-in designs, see Autopower and Kirk Racing. Both companies offer legal products in a wide variety of fitments and for a wide variety of vehicles. There are other options as well.

Do NOT use Cusco bars/cages! There have been numerous discussions here and elsewhere about why. To keep it short and simple, they are not legal according to almost all US organization rules. They might be JDM certified or whatever, but that does not mean it's ok in the US. I could rant on endlessly about these, but won't here. A search for "Cusco" in the RRAX forum will return MANY results, and you can read all about it.

-Fire
Sometimes, shit happens in a bad way. That can mean fire gets involved. There are a number of systems in place to help deal with this. The first one would be a driver's suit. They are made of Nomex, and are designed to resist fire/heat to some degree for a certain amount of time. When coupled with Nomex shoes, gloves, socks, and balaclava, you increase your fire safety to a decent degree.

Fire extinguishing systems are also available. They range from simple hand-held extinguishers to more elaborate systems involving several individual nozzles directed at key points (driver's feet, engine bay, gas tank area, etc.). There are competition rules specifying various things about how to do this, and you should follow those rules. Even for the HPDEr, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have something like this handy. Note that mounting this in the rear of the car, or to the rear of the main hoop won't be much help, since you won't be able to reach it. There are also a few different types of extinguishing materials.

Competition Information:
-Rules
NASA CCR: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf
NASA Honda Challenge Rules: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/Honda-Challenge.pdf
NASA Rally Rules: http://www.nasarallysport.com/main/rules
NASA Time Trials: http://www.nasa-tt.com/Rules
SCCA GCR: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Club%2...CR/2009GCR.pdf
SCCA Club Racing Rules and Classing: http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=71
Solo Rules and Classing: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Solo_R...Solo_Rules.pdf
Solo Categories/Classing: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Solo_R...categories.pdf
SCCA Rallycross Rules: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Rally%20Rules/2009rxr.pdf
SCCA Roadrally Rules: http://cms.scca.com/documents/Rally%...leBook8x11.pdf
MCSCC GCR (Midwestern Council): http://www.mcscc.org/gcr.php
MCSCC High Speed Autocross info: http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php

-Licensing
NASA: http://www.nasaproracing.com/proracing/license.html
SCCA: http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=43
MCSCC Licensing: http://www.mcscc.org/w2w_school.php

In general, licensing is required only for competitive track driving. HPDEs/Trackdays/Autoxes do NOT require a license (other than in many cases a driver's license). The specifics of acquiring one of those licenses are covered in the two links above. The basic idea is this: For SCCA you sign up for a school, go through the school, don't mess anything up too bad, and you get your rookie license. There are stipulations beyond that, but that's the gist.

For NASA, you have to either have an existing SCCA license (and I believe a certain number of races), or go through the HPDE ranks, then take the Comp School.

There are other ways of acquiring these, but those are the most common and most recognized in the US.

-Types
This is covered in the "Rules" section, and has already been described. You can autocross, HPDE/Trackday, Time Trial, Roadrace, Rallycross, or Roadrally (think WRC sort of, if you're unfamiliar). Pretty much anywhere you want to drive, on road or off, in a parking lot, on a closed public street, whatever, there are ways to do it legally.

Tires:
Tires come in three varieties that you should be concerned about here. They are all-seasons, sporty street tires (referred generally just as "street tires"), and race tires ("R-comps", "DOT-Rs", "Slicks").

All-seasons are your typical Joe Schmoe daily driving tire. They are ok for everything, but great at nothing. They are perfectly fine to use for any type of driving activity, but have lower limits and traction thresholds than either sticky street tires or race tires. That's to be expected. They can also "chunk", where chunks of the tire will actually rip off from the carcass when the tire is pushed hard. For those two reasons, they are generally not desirable for spirited driving. However, they usually are cheap, and are fine to learn on.

Sticky street tires are made to take some abuse, and to provide a more enjoyable spirited driving experience. They come in all shapes, sizes, and flavors, and are covered in much greater detail in the Wheel/Tire subforum. These are also a great way to start out on track or autoxing, as they tend to be predictable and safe, while still allowing for some hooliganism and fun.

Race tires are a completely different animal from the other two. They are designed to work in a very specific way, which typically involves a narrow temperature and pressure range. They also wear out MUCH faster, and can "heat cycle" out before all their tread is worn away (or the cords are showing, for that matter). These are NOT tires for a beginner driver! When they are pushed past the limit, regaining traction can be difficult*. If you go off track into the grass, you are pretty much along for the ride, as they don't work very well in grass.

Since this is such a broad and huge topic, I'm limiting the discussion here. These are the bare minimum basics, and the only other pertinent information is this:
-Start on something street legal
-If you say you're going to start on R-Comps, we'll all tell you not to; Many organizations will also not allow you to run in their events on R-comps if you have no experience.
-Search here and in the Wheel/Tire forum for more information. nsxtasy is the tire guru in these parts, especially with sticky street tires.

*For noobs. Once you know what you're doing and have the car control skills of a more advanced driver, this isn't such a big deal.

Brakes:
Brakes are the second most important part of any car on track. It doesn't matter how fast you can go if you can't stop at the end of a straight.
Suspension:
-Springs (rates)
-Shocks
-Swaybars
-Cornerweighting
Engine/Trans: Be realistic/follow class rules if necessary.
Differential:

NOOBS

More coming, but I'm out of time for today...