Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing.
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Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing.
When the clutch is released, with the car in neutral, the tranny makes a loud continuous, and RPM dependent sound. When I push the clutch in, the noise winds down and stops. That tells me that is probably a bearing somewhere on the input shaft of the tranny. If I put the car in gear and get moving, the noise comes back as soon as I let out the clutch, and winds down again if I push it back in, coasting.
I changed out the throw out bearing, which was cooked.
Everything is back together, but the noise is still there. It is not screechy, but it is loud. Could it be the pilot bearing? (I know, I should have changed it while I was in there) or another bearing, inside the tranny? TO give you an idea of how loud it is, the car is a race car, with very minimal exhaust. I can still hear it when going slowly...
How long can I drive it that way? What could I be damaging?
TIA
I changed out the throw out bearing, which was cooked.
Everything is back together, but the noise is still there. It is not screechy, but it is loud. Could it be the pilot bearing? (I know, I should have changed it while I was in there) or another bearing, inside the tranny? TO give you an idea of how loud it is, the car is a race car, with very minimal exhaust. I can still hear it when going slowly...
How long can I drive it that way? What could I be damaging?
TIA
#2
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (SJR)
My guess? - input shaft bearing - it will often run noisy for quite some time before failing, but when it does will take out the entire transmission.
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (JeffS)
i would agree with the diagnosis of input shaft bearing going bad....
also, this is a dumb question, but have you doublechecked the fluid level in the tranny?
when the input shaft bearing starts to go bad, you may be able to wiggle the input shaft back and forth when the tranny is out of the car....
good luck, man!
todd
also, this is a dumb question, but have you doublechecked the fluid level in the tranny?
when the input shaft bearing starts to go bad, you may be able to wiggle the input shaft back and forth when the tranny is out of the car....
good luck, man!
todd
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (Todd Reid)
that doesn't sound good. That tranny has only about 3 hours on it since I bought it, rebuilt... and it has been running noisy for about one hour of track time.
I have changed the fluid in after every hour of run time. So I am positive it has never been ran low.
Could I have done anything to cause premature failure of the input shaft bearing?
I guess I will be taking my chances at the Nelson Ledges school.
I have changed the fluid in after every hour of run time. So I am positive it has never been ran low.
Could I have done anything to cause premature failure of the input shaft bearing?
I guess I will be taking my chances at the Nelson Ledges school.
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (SJR)
The most damaging thing you can do for an input shaft bearing is to drop the clutch or release the clutch without rev matching. When ever I see someone chirping the tires shifting into second and third, my teeth ache knowing how hard it is on the bearings. Running a straight cut gear box helps to alleviate this some. This is because normal gears are helical gears, and the more force you apply to them (especially a high shock load like a power shift or clutch drop) actually applies a large force pushing the two gears apart, and in turn, pushing the two shafts apart. It is the input and output shaft bearings that take this load. It is usually the input shaft that goes first because first gear (the gear which is most common to have high loading (clutch drop)) on the input shaft is the largest gear, and will see the highest load.
Straight cut gears do not behave like this, which is one reason why they are much more durable.
Blah blah blah, ya, I know..
Straight cut gears do not behave like this, which is one reason why they are much more durable.
Blah blah blah, ya, I know..
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (SJR)
Mine makes a little whine and always has. Its not incredibly loud though.
I dunno. I'd really have to hear it to say. But its generally safe to say a loud whine is not a good thing.
Me = Automotive genius!!!
I dunno. I'd really have to hear it to say. But its generally safe to say a loud whine is not a good thing.
Me = Automotive genius!!!
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (Catch 22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Me = Automotive genius!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, thanks for making me laugh my *** off
Not saying you aren't, just funny as hell.......
Me = Automotive genius!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, thanks for making me laugh my *** off
Not saying you aren't, just funny as hell.......
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Yup, sounds like an input shaft bearing, probably the one in the clutch housing (ie under all of the gears)... I had the same thing recently. I opened the tranny and found several shards of metal stuck to the magnet. It turns out that it used to be the piece of metal that sits on top of the ***** in the bearing to keep them in place.
Here's how to replace it on a D-Series tranny... (B-Series is pretty similar, and I posted my comments on page 5): https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=596873
Here's how to replace it on a D-Series tranny... (B-Series is pretty similar, and I posted my comments on page 5): https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=596873
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (SJR)
If your transmission was improperly shimmed during the rebuild process that could easily account for the problem that you are describing.
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Re: Clutch/tranny noise, and it's not the throw-out bearing. (CRX-RX)
Definitely sounds like an input shaft bearing. Good news is, it's not a horribly expensive repair. I had mine replaced for <$200 parts & labor on my ITR. I pulled the box and dropped it off at a local Honda repair shop. From what they stated, it's a fairly common problem on D-series boxes and non-hydro B-series too, so it's a fix the mechanics are familiar with doing.
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