CBURKE

I have herd of this before and was told it gives it a deeper look. Any of you done this? If so how may times can you do this?

I would guess you would do your 1500-2000 then clean and clear, but how do all the scratches get filled?

powerflow

Yes, a thick build of clear will give a "deeper" look. Three med. wet coats of a high quality, high gloss clear, laid out nice w/ minimal peel, knocked down a little or flat sanded can look awesome and deep. Re-clearing clear is alot of work on a complete car but its worth it depending on the owners desires. I've done a few custom re-clearing jos and its worth it if you have the funds but it takes more work and time to do it right. I've re-cleared as coarse as 800 grit w/ no sand scratches, the clear build fills the scratches. I prefer the DC 5300 RM Diamont clear for custom completes.

CBURKE

Ok. so I did here this right. I am going to try this on a friends bike. This should be cool.

harmonator84

You have to watch about stock paints though. They were not meant to be wetsanded down. Especially the corners....avoid them at all cost.

CBURKE

I am talking about doing a paint job, and when it's time to clear it and it dryes you wet sand it then clear it again. Not stock paint.......

I see what your saying though.

harmonator84

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am talking about doing a paint job, and when it's time to clear it and it dryes you wet sand it then clear it again. Not stock paint.......

I see what your saying though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohhh ok...missed that sorry.

vsmhatched

i just sprayed my moms car, i did a jet black base clear using dupont chromabase paint and dupont 7779 clear. After I sprayed it, the next day i used 800 grit to wet sand it down, to get all the gloss off again, make sure in all the cracks and edges, then I re-cleared the car and put some red ice pearl in it. It makes the black look really deep at night and so smooth looking during the day. Its worth it i think

CBURKE

Cool, so when doing this you use 800 wet and work up from there not 1500 and up, cool.

Now are you having any trouble cutting through the clear useing 800?

vsmhatched

no, i wet sanded with wet 800 to get all the gloss off. Now you dont want to be pressing down hardcore or anything, let the paper do the work, but it gets rid of all the gloss from the first time i cleared it which i sprayed it with 2 coats. So the car has 2 coats of clear on it which is plenty for being safe and not sanding through. when all the gloss is gone, I shot it again with 2 more coats of clear, and the last coat i added some pearl in it. It did NOT leave any scratches or anything. Here's a few pics of this, i shot it about 2 days ago..I've been in school for paint and body for about 2 years now, and i've never had a problem doing it this way. Now if you want to just shoot the car and buff it, i suggest maybe 3 coats of clear, the sand it with 1500 then 3000. 3M has a system out there called the Trizact system, it works wonders for buffing, check that out too just for another option. Anyways, on with the pics...hope this helps.
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powerflow

Trizact is awesome, I second that one. 3m has some of the best materials available. I can save so much time using stuff like trizact and finesse it polish.

powerflow

As long as your using the proper sand paper, 800 cuts right through, its pretty aggressive for clear. Knowing when the paper starts to wear and using fresh pieces, letting the paper do the work,not going through the clear, you'll be fine.

Genuine Rolla

Say if you end up having some imperfections in the clear..do you wet sand and then just buff or..?

CBURKE

Is that the buffing compound that you just need to use diff pads but the compound does it all?

And great job on that paint, wow!!!

powerflow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Genuine Rolla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Say if you end up having some imperfections in the clear..do you wet sand and then just buff or..?</TD></TR></TABLE> On a big job there is usually going to be imperfections, usual dirt nibs ect, witch can be removed. As long as the imperfection is sanded out correctly and removed, the clear can be applied without buffing.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that the buffing compound that you just need to use diff pads but the compound does it all?</TD></TR></TABLE> No its just polishing compound.

odd22004

i think you could only put about 2 clear coats but i could be wrong. good luck thow

vsmhatched

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by odd22004 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you could only put about 2 clear coats but i could be wrong. good luck thow </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can spray as many coats of clear as you want...I sprayed 4 on my car

"00"R

At my shop we refer to that as flow coating. Its a good idea for a few reasons. one is that you can lay your clear over a perfecly flat surface rather than over sealer and multiple coats of base which yeilds much less orange peel. I clear the car with two coats of clear (as per manufacturers spec, too much clear can lead to die back in the gloss and sometimes cracking). Then once the clear has cured I DA the whole car with 800 then catch all my edges with a grey scotch-brite, as long as the clear is somewhat fresh it sands easier and later coats will stick well. The other reason it's a good idea is that your "flow coats" will yeild a better gloss in the end due to the fact that you did not just apply wet coats of sealer and base under it, this means that there is less solvent escaping from the surface, which is what causes "die back" in the gloss. But on the other hand you also double your clear price which in a lot of cases is the biggest expense.

vsmhatched

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "00"R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At my shop we refer to that as flow coating. Its a good idea for a few reasons. one is that you can lay your clear over a perfecly flat surface rather than over sealer and multiple coats of base which yeilds much less orange peel. I clear the car with two coats of clear (as per manufacturers spec, too much clear can lead to die back in the gloss and sometimes cracking). Then once the clear has cured I DA the whole car with 800 then catch all my edges with a grey scotch-brite, as long as the clear is somewhat fresh it sands easier and later coats will stick well. The other reason it's a good idea is that your "flow coats" will yeild a better gloss in the end due to the fact that you did not just apply wet coats of sealer and base under it, this means that there is less solvent escaping from the surface, which is what causes "die back" in the gloss. But on the other hand you also double your clear price which in a lot of cases is the biggest expense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

perfection

CBURKE

ok, first are you wet sanding the 800 with a DA?

and second, could you wet sand the base before you lay the clear? Or would that not make any sense?

This is really good info guys keep it up.
I am self taught and if I had the time to go to school I would, but it's kinda neat learning on my own.......

exvelocity

I sand all my base with 1000 grit to get rid of any roughness,dirt,e.t.c and follow with a light coat of base and then shoot clear,

also I would not go any finer than 1000 grit when re-clearing, 1500-2000 is considered as polishing already and you will not have any adhesion,800 is ideal with combi nation of gray scotch-brite pad, on jet black however 1000 is the only way, if you use anything coarser it will show sand scratches

CBURKE

Cool so wet sanding the base is ok. Really good to know.

E-Rok

make sure you do not get too many coats of clear as it will get stress crack from daily use. it is good for show cars but not made for daily driven cars.

"00"R

yea you can sand the base wether it be wet or dry, I personally hate wet sanding so I try to sand as much as I can dry. Wet sanding just helps to clear your paper of sanding dust. As said previusly if your gonna sand the base coat you can use between 600 and 1000, just make sure you spray another coat over that to even the color and to cover sand scratches.

NAbrothers

Im painting my EH2 nighthawk black pearl. Have the 6 layer base coat and a layer of clear. We're about to wetsand it with 1500 and put on 2 more layers of clear then buff and cut. I can take pics to show you what it looks like after its done.. if interested.

"00"R

just a sugestion but you might want to go with 800 or even 1000 grit. It will cut your clear straighter and offer better adhesion. Either way its nice to see people make the extra effort to do a good job.