poormans_typer69

i want to re-clear my carbon fiber hood and want to know what grit i should sand it and what else...

Genuine Rolla

I would start off with 320-600 grit. wetsand it real well. Then bring it to the place to get it cleared.

atm3535

DO NOT sand it with anything rougher than 600 grit. you'll see sand scratches all over it.

ideally it should be 'dry' sanded with 800 grit on a painter's (fine) DA sander.

basically, as rude as it sounds, if you don't know what grit to sand it with, you shouldn't be trying to re-clear it yourself. if you're actually bringing it to a shop to have it done then don't touch it. let the shop do it. one of the most common mistakes is people thinking that doing prepwork of your own will save money on your paintjob. at a REAL shop, it won't change a thing except that it may end up costing you MORE money because they'll have to fix your mistakes.

i hate when people bring **** to me already "prepped". 90% of the time it's some hackjob that i have to spend more time fixing. it has no benifit whatsoever.

c_rogue69

Don't listen to these guys. If you're just going to re-clear it...I wouldn't do anything rougher than 1000-2000 grit. Anything rougher than that will leave deep scratches and won't look good at all. Trust me, I've been doing this kind of stuff long enough

gstewart27

I wet sanded my old bonnet with 800 grit, it came out good

atm3535

don't listen to who?? I'm a painter. i know what works, and what doesn't. simple as that. i know which grits need to be used for which situations, and i guarantee that with 800 on a DA sander you will not see scratches in the clear. that's just how it works, to prep for a clear blend, you use 800 DA... 1000 at a stretch if you want to be extra careful, and you do it DRY. wetsanding is for nibbing/buffing after the clear has dried. when you prep for clear blends or even an overall spray it's more than a waste of time/energy to wetsand, it's pure stupidity. inefficiency at it's best (or worst).

everyone has different techniques and preferences, but the reason Bodywork/painting is THE most misunderstood part of the auto culture is because of people like you who give misinformation based on some hack job they've done in their driveway, or because they got advice from so and so down the street who's painted cars before.

c_rogue69

Okay, before you screw yourself anymore, just shut up now. I work at a Family Owned body shop. My dad has owned his own Paint & Body Shop for 22 years...and has been doing body work for over 30 years. I asked him this morning if what I said was right, and he said yes. Not saying what you said was wrong...but I wouldn't trust it...based on what I've seen over the past 5 years and based on what my dad has said. So before you think you know everything just b/c you're a painter...let me clear my story up for you

DC2.2_GSR

(this is ATM3535, i was on a friend's name and finally created my own today)

what?? before i screw myself any more? just because your dad's shop does it one way, that doesn't mean it's the right way. 800 grit on a DA sander leaves an incredibly smooth finish. wetsanding takes too much time. it's completely overkill. ask your dad if he wetsands with 1000-2000 grit on every car that comes through the shop.. i guarantee he doesn't. it's okay to do, but completely ineficient. if you've ever wetsanded a panel you'll know what i'm talking about. it takes WAY too much time to do. that's why you use 800-1000 dry on a finishing DA sander. it's quick, efficient, and with 1000 grit is overkill in itself.

from the two posts you've made, it's easy to see that you're ignorant of most things paint/body related. the general nature of my job REQUIRES that i know everything about painting. when i (or anyone else in the shop) don't know something, DuPont makes sure that i learn it quick. they send a Rep and i learn from the people who designed the paint system.

sounds like you're in need of some classes yourself.

c_rogue69

I didn't say my way was the only right way...there are many ways. And yes, I've wet sanded before...like I said, I've been doing this type of work for 5 years...my main job is prep. And for a Hood, wet sanding isn't overkill b/c it's not a big panel. If you were re-clearing an all-over, I'd see using a DA b/c it's quicker

Noch

so uhhhh...whats a DA again?
lol...seriously everyone has their "Learned" ways, if your not sure then just test for yourself on a small "inconspicuous" area (both methods) or just choose something in the middle of the two....woot!

no need for this bickering, what works for one, might not work for another. To each his own....nough said.

VTEC_Club

If it's paint, I would do it with 1000 just to be safe. 1000 to fine pad to scotch bright. But since its a carbon fiber hood, it should be ok to 800.

sxm5369

does anybody have a pic of a refinished carbon fiber hood? i am debating if i should get mine refinshed or buy my 3rd one. btw its a VIS carbon fiber hood

notmightydx

^^^ i would try a $125 re clear at a decent shop before i spent another 375+ on a new CF hood.^^^ best of luck to you

SneezinCD5

Just finished mine the other week. Wetsanded it with 2K on a DA. Came out better than when it was new *** VIS If you use 2k grit, you cant go wrong

Before:




After:

purposebuilt

I was just woundering did anyone do there own work like sand and spray yourself. If so what clear did you use and how many coats. Thankyou

turbo sol

ive had good look with 2k clear. it has a catalyst in it and you can buy it from any decent paint shop in an aerosol can. I've done clear coats on small pieces with with. (even headlights)

tony_2018

I think I see orange peel on that pic, you sanded the hood after reclearing?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Exactly LOL.

I used 600 grit to wetsand a faded *** carbon hood I got. This dudes hood now needs a 1000, 2000 and 3000 Trizac. Compound, Polish and Ultrafine it.