alltech_hybrid

Im most worried about the shock tower area and the fact that theres some flex when driving.. Dont want it to crack with normal plastic filler... My paint teach recommends DYNAGLASS.. what you guys think?

Pockets

never used it, but do use evercoat products. they are a popular brand you'll be able to find a lot of information on it as i'm sure a lot of people on here do use it. you shouldn't need a filler just as glaze product since you probably wont be filling over much but ground down welds. i don't think you'll have a cracking problem unless you fill over seams or any part of the bay that could possibly flex during driving. i'm sure there's someone on here that's shaved a bay that could personally give more information though.

AK_CRX

evercoat metal glaze is a great product, whatever your using filler for it should be extremely thin after sanding so it won't have any issue flexing just as your factory paint doesn't pop off when your chassis flexes, thin is the key. If your talking about covering all the joints where you have factory seam sealer then these seams need to be welded, ground, then glazed... I suspect even dynaglass would crack if it was used to smooth over a joint, that stuff is tough as nails but extremely brittle.

alltech_hybrid

good info.. anyone else?

likwidchz

well you could use the fiberglass green bondo, then Rage body filler for touchup as its very easy to work with and auto levels.

thats how I did my engine bay.

lanzo88

i always used evercoat products as well. if the dyna glass is a fiberglass filler most likely it will be very hard and will not flex. but when your shock towers flex i believe it may crack considering its not very flexible. i think the evercoat filler may be a little more forgiving but i may be wrong. not sure never did the shaved engine bay look.

blue2000em1

Yes I NEVER have done a shaved engine bay.But I would definetly recomend dynaglass on shaving a engine bay as my Teacher would say the same. Metalglaze is a polyester, I have seen it used also on engine bays but I would say dynaglass is the way to go.Just apply your bondo then the glaze on top(only if using cheap bondo to cover pinholes).And be pretty much done dude.

imptricer

iTrader: (1)

metal glaze on mine and many others talk to pandahatch he would recommend metal glaze too i believe

blackeg

i actually welded the holes in my shocktower and on my framerails. took a lot of sanding to smooth back down, but i know its solid

gsr dood

evercoat metal glaze 100% cheap and effective

speedworks

shock towers will never flex enough to make body filler pop off and crack.

likwidchz

Thats mine

heres the whole dump of 90% of the ones I took while doing my project

http://s10.photobucket.com/alb...atch/

tearlessj

Whats with the bumps in the paint?

SneezinCD5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tearlessj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats with the bumps in the paint?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what I was thinking, acne FTL

Edit: Why didn't you just take off the nuts on the strut tower. You overmasked everything

likwidchz

well I did it myself, And I used rustoleam spraypaint as it had a really nice look to it once it dryed. I'll admit the paint didnt dry well in areas but it looks pretty neat up close, that dosent look too horrible, just a wierd angle i suppose.

Also sneezin the entire thing was painted with everything off the car, nothing was masked, the car was down to the shell


so i don't quite understand if you realized I had dissassabled everything in the engine bay


*EDIT* -- I was tempted to spray the engine bay with automotive paint although I'm glad I didn't because of the fact I had to knockoff the passenger side engine mount for the H series hasport mount, with 2stage paint would have been pretty difficult without making it look right -- at least I have never attempted to blend 2stage ie basecoat over clear without redoing the whole thing...


Also When painting the shock towers when you tighten down the nut's it would *** up the paint quite a bit around the nut rather then the thin thin oem paint job that seems to last forever around the shock towers.


I don't know I mean I did this without any help from anyone so I feel I did a great job Considering im 26 and this is really the first car Ive ever built from the ground up with parts that I selected and did the engine swap and all that single handedly by myself so out of respect for your comments I'll look the other way.



Modified by likwidchz at 7:48 PM 2/19/2008

Pac-Man_G

Dura Glass ALL DAY!!! USC Product are great! dyna glass it too thick and harder to work with, but i'm thinking panel bond adhesive by be really fast and affective
look into 3m panel bond

allmotor.net

USC Icing - Easy to Sand too!!!
Im Selling some on eBay right now. Check my signature!

17

T-Rock

I use evercoat topcoat/metal glaze and it works great for me, Here is a couple pics of a bay I did with a dupont hothues color and Nason clear.



all primed



basecoated and cleared

AK_CRX

Very nice work... So no problems with chassis flex popping or cracking the metal glaze over the seams?

T-Rock

Not at all but then again I welded all seems to stiffen the chassi.

alltech_hybrid

i was considering metal glaze too but its really thin..
but man your engine bay looks hot!

any pics of the welding?

99PreludeSh

heres a couple pictures of T-Rocks welds in the engine bay

jayscott

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imptricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">metal glaze on mine and many others talk to pandahatch he would recommend metal glaze too i believe</TD></TR></TABLE>

T-Rock

Its actually not my bay but a friend of mines. The welds have alot of porosity cuz I was running low on gas and just wanted to finish up. I will start a build thread and do a write up on my car as soon as I get started, I just bought an 89 civic hatch.
Here is a before and after pic of my GTP, which I used another cool product on thats called metal to metal its an aluminum based filler for going over bare metal/welded areas and then you put some evercoat topcoat on after to finish up.




Modified by T-Rock at 5:40 PM 2/24/2008