Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse
03-19-2008, 09:16 AM
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Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse
*****UPDATE NEW PICS ARE UP OF THE ENTIRE FINISHED CAR*****
Hey guys, I decided to try and bring my paint back to life instead of getting it painted. I had another thread going, but it wasn't as "on topic" as this one will be, and this way when people search they will be able to see some results.
For the beginners and weary:
I have never used a power buffer, always used to do things by hand. I have never polished before either. So this is my first time, and it turned out to be fairly easy.
Its a 1994 milano red Del sol, and the paint is pretty oxidized, but it hasnt started stripping the clear yet, so there is still hope!
The process I am using to do this is fairly simple (compared to more in depth routines ie, wet sanding, compounding etc...)
I used these products in this order:
1. Mothers california Gold Wash
2. Mothers Clay bar kit (entire vehicle)
3. Klasse All In One
4. Klasse Sealer Glaze
5. Carnauba Wax (haven't decided which I will use yet)
Washing and clay barring is simple, if you need details on clay barring, a quick youtube search brings some helpful videos.
The only product I will be applying by hand is the Sealer Glaze, the Klasse AIO and Wax I'll be using a porter Cable 7424 with a Lake country collection of pads. Alot of vets would go with a rotary buffer, but I chose the PC7424 since I am new to power buffers, and from what i have researched, it is much safer for your paint.
I received the PC7424 on monday, and the Klasse products on tuesday. Still waiting for the Lake Country Pad kit. Bought EVERYTHING on ebay.
Here are some random before pictures of the Del sol:
Sorry about the bad lighting/shade, there wasnt alot I could do about it.
I decided to go ahead and wash the car yesterday since it was getting pretty dirty. And since it was nice enough out, I all of the sudden came down with the flu and couldn't go to work (cough cough)
I went ahead and clay barred the Top and the rear trim, and went to work with the Klasse BY HAND, since the Lake country pads haven't arrived yet. I'll be doing the entire car this weekend, with the PC7424 and more pics so you can see the difference of how well it works when applied by hand Vs. Machine.
Heres some Comparison shots of the top.For the most part, the right side is clay barred and untouched, the left side has been buffed with Klasse AIO by hand.
Here are some Comparison shots of the trim piece:
Driver side before:
After
Pass. Side Before
After
Here is the complete top, with a final swipe of AIO, and one *Extra Thin Layer* as the bottle directs, of Sealer Glaze. supposedly you can apply as many layers of the sealer you want, just have to give 8-12 hrs for it to cure. And the more layers, suppsoedly the deeper the shine. No Wax Yet, and no machine buffing yet:
Here is a shot of the drivers side mirror Before. My hopes were less for this since the clear was obviously attacked.
But Klasse AIO, by Hand, did a satisfactory job:
Ill put up more pictures this weekend after I do the entire car. Let me know what you guys think. And if any of the vets have any advice its all appreciated!
NEW PICS:
Before
Before
Before
Before
After
After
Comparison:
Fender Before
Fender After
Finished the whole hood. Check out the oxidation on the front bumper, make a of it for later.
Rear Bumper before
Rear Bumper Before, Check out where the old sticker used to be
Entire rear bumper before
Trunk cover before
Rear After
No more sticker
trunk cover
Passenger side done
ALL DONE!
And AGAIN
Before
After
All in all, it took me a good 7 hrs to do. Ridiculous, my arms were hurtin. My back was hurting. I thought i wasnt going to have feeling in my hands for a week after they went numb from vibrations. It definitely would have been a good idea to get multiple pads for polishing, but, eh, oh well. I also ended up doing an additional stage as well. Turtle wax rubbing compound prior to the klasse.
I'm really satisfied with the job. There is still spots where the paint it faded, but atleast now the whole car shines, and the majority of the oxidation is gone! Take it for what it is and leave some feedback!
Modified by needanew1 at 6:18 PM 3/23/2008
Hey guys, I decided to try and bring my paint back to life instead of getting it painted. I had another thread going, but it wasn't as "on topic" as this one will be, and this way when people search they will be able to see some results.
For the beginners and weary:
I have never used a power buffer, always used to do things by hand. I have never polished before either. So this is my first time, and it turned out to be fairly easy.
Its a 1994 milano red Del sol, and the paint is pretty oxidized, but it hasnt started stripping the clear yet, so there is still hope!
The process I am using to do this is fairly simple (compared to more in depth routines ie, wet sanding, compounding etc...)
I used these products in this order:
1. Mothers california Gold Wash
2. Mothers Clay bar kit (entire vehicle)
3. Klasse All In One
4. Klasse Sealer Glaze
5. Carnauba Wax (haven't decided which I will use yet)
Washing and clay barring is simple, if you need details on clay barring, a quick youtube search brings some helpful videos.
The only product I will be applying by hand is the Sealer Glaze, the Klasse AIO and Wax I'll be using a porter Cable 7424 with a Lake country collection of pads. Alot of vets would go with a rotary buffer, but I chose the PC7424 since I am new to power buffers, and from what i have researched, it is much safer for your paint.
I received the PC7424 on monday, and the Klasse products on tuesday. Still waiting for the Lake Country Pad kit. Bought EVERYTHING on ebay.
Here are some random before pictures of the Del sol:
Sorry about the bad lighting/shade, there wasnt alot I could do about it.
I decided to go ahead and wash the car yesterday since it was getting pretty dirty. And since it was nice enough out, I all of the sudden came down with the flu and couldn't go to work (cough cough)
I went ahead and clay barred the Top and the rear trim, and went to work with the Klasse BY HAND, since the Lake country pads haven't arrived yet. I'll be doing the entire car this weekend, with the PC7424 and more pics so you can see the difference of how well it works when applied by hand Vs. Machine.Heres some Comparison shots of the top.For the most part, the right side is clay barred and untouched, the left side has been buffed with Klasse AIO by hand.
Here are some Comparison shots of the trim piece:
Driver side before:
After
Pass. Side Before
After
Here is the complete top, with a final swipe of AIO, and one *Extra Thin Layer* as the bottle directs, of Sealer Glaze. supposedly you can apply as many layers of the sealer you want, just have to give 8-12 hrs for it to cure. And the more layers, suppsoedly the deeper the shine. No Wax Yet, and no machine buffing yet:
Here is a shot of the drivers side mirror Before. My hopes were less for this since the clear was obviously attacked.
But Klasse AIO, by Hand, did a satisfactory job:
Ill put up more pictures this weekend after I do the entire car. Let me know what you guys think. And if any of the vets have any advice its all appreciated!
NEW PICS:
Before
Before
Before
Before
After
After
Comparison:
Fender Before
Fender After
Finished the whole hood. Check out the oxidation on the front bumper, make a of it for later.
Rear Bumper before
Rear Bumper Before, Check out where the old sticker used to be
Entire rear bumper before
Trunk cover before
Rear After
No more sticker
trunk cover
Passenger side done
ALL DONE!
And AGAIN
Before
After
All in all, it took me a good 7 hrs to do. Ridiculous, my arms were hurtin. My back was hurting. I thought i wasnt going to have feeling in my hands for a week after they went numb from vibrations. It definitely would have been a good idea to get multiple pads for polishing, but, eh, oh well. I also ended up doing an additional stage as well. Turtle wax rubbing compound prior to the klasse.
I'm really satisfied with the job. There is still spots where the paint it faded, but atleast now the whole car shines, and the majority of the oxidation is gone! Take it for what it is and leave some feedback!
Modified by needanew1 at 6:18 PM 3/23/2008
03-19-2008, 01:35 PM
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Re: (needanew1)
Wow!!! Maybe I should try this too, I feel you pain I have a MR eh2 and the paint is bad but not that bad....I can't wait for pics of the complete finished car. Good Job!!!
03-19-2008, 01:53 PM
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Re: (Blk_EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk_EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't wait for pics of the complete finished car. Good Job!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
hah me too man, me too. The rear window trim was seriously the worst part, and it came out somewhat decent. And that was only doing it by hand. With one coat of sealer glaze and no wax. With the buffer/multiple coats of sealer/wax I think I'll be able to safely rid the car of most of the oxidation.
If your car is better off that this, do it up man! and take pictures. You can get the Klasse on ebay pretty cheap. AND a little bit goes sooo far with this stuff. On the bottle for the glaze it says 2 oz is enough for one layer on a full size car
hah me too man, me too. The rear window trim was seriously the worst part, and it came out somewhat decent. And that was only doing it by hand. With one coat of sealer glaze and no wax. With the buffer/multiple coats of sealer/wax I think I'll be able to safely rid the car of most of the oxidation.
If your car is better off that this, do it up man! and take pictures. You can get the Klasse on ebay pretty cheap. AND a little bit goes sooo far with this stuff. On the bottle for the glaze it says 2 oz is enough for one layer on a full size car
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03-20-2008, 05:43 AM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
Your paint will look good for a long time if you buff it slow and take your time. Also once you are done make sure it doesn't go outdoors for a minimum of three days. I've done red cars worse than yours so here's a heads up:
Tape off anything that is bare plastic and all of your rubber seals. You're going to get red dust all over everything. You'll see what I mean. Have a spare wool pad or two because those things are going to turn red very quickly. Don't wear clothes you care about.
I usually start at the driver fender and work my way around counter clockwise and finish at the driver's side hood. You know where you left off if you take a break. In this case, the last place you buffed is going to be obvious but you get the idea. I'd also start on the hood since you're new. Its a flat surface and is easier to learn on.
Start with your wool pad and a medium compound. Don't use a harsh compound because your clear is on its tattered ends already. Buff at about 1100-1400 rpm. I know this is slow. You don't want to get it too hot because you won't be making fast progress. Buff in 2ft x 2ft sections, or as best as you can. Once you get the compound spread around evenly (you're going to sling compound everywhere at first 'cos you're new at this), buff in an 's' pattern side to side and up and down. Do this until you start to see the compound dissipate into the pad. Don't let the paint get too dry. If you're not happy with that section yet, apply more compound and repeat. Keep your pads as clean as you can using a spur and repeat this process on the whole car.
Once you're done, use a foam pad and a fine polish to remove swirls and the remaining oxidation. This will bring back a luster your car hasn't seen in a long time. Be careful on your bumpers, though. A foam pad gets super hot on plastic and fiberglass and will pull the paint right off if you let it. Use more compound than you think you should and polish at about 1000 rpm on your plastic pieces until you get the hang of it. Use the same 's' pattern and go over the whole car again.
Follow up with Nu Finish. It lasts a long time and will keep your paint looking 'freshly buffed' for a while. If you don't use that then whatever it is make sure you don't use a paste. I'd also invest in a car cover. The sun will start taking its toll on your clear coat as soon as you put it back outside so I'd find something to help prevent that. Have fun. I wish I could buff on this thing a while I love making del sol's look good. If you need anything, PM me.
Tape off anything that is bare plastic and all of your rubber seals. You're going to get red dust all over everything. You'll see what I mean. Have a spare wool pad or two because those things are going to turn red very quickly. Don't wear clothes you care about.
I usually start at the driver fender and work my way around counter clockwise and finish at the driver's side hood. You know where you left off if you take a break. In this case, the last place you buffed is going to be obvious but you get the idea. I'd also start on the hood since you're new. Its a flat surface and is easier to learn on.
Start with your wool pad and a medium compound. Don't use a harsh compound because your clear is on its tattered ends already. Buff at about 1100-1400 rpm. I know this is slow. You don't want to get it too hot because you won't be making fast progress. Buff in 2ft x 2ft sections, or as best as you can. Once you get the compound spread around evenly (you're going to sling compound everywhere at first 'cos you're new at this), buff in an 's' pattern side to side and up and down. Do this until you start to see the compound dissipate into the pad. Don't let the paint get too dry. If you're not happy with that section yet, apply more compound and repeat. Keep your pads as clean as you can using a spur and repeat this process on the whole car.
Once you're done, use a foam pad and a fine polish to remove swirls and the remaining oxidation. This will bring back a luster your car hasn't seen in a long time. Be careful on your bumpers, though. A foam pad gets super hot on plastic and fiberglass and will pull the paint right off if you let it. Use more compound than you think you should and polish at about 1000 rpm on your plastic pieces until you get the hang of it. Use the same 's' pattern and go over the whole car again.
Follow up with Nu Finish. It lasts a long time and will keep your paint looking 'freshly buffed' for a while. If you don't use that then whatever it is make sure you don't use a paste. I'd also invest in a car cover. The sun will start taking its toll on your clear coat as soon as you put it back outside so I'd find something to help prevent that. Have fun. I wish I could buff on this thing a while I love making del sol's look good. If you need anything, PM me.
03-20-2008, 06:07 AM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
Awww crap.
I just realized you're not using a rotary high speed buffer. You should. That orbital machine is just a fancy waxer. You should use a compound that will 'eat' away the oxidation. Anyhoo, if you decide to take the plunge with a real buffer, the above writeup won't go to waste...lol
Later.
<--myself
I just realized you're not using a rotary high speed buffer. You should. That orbital machine is just a fancy waxer. You should use a compound that will 'eat' away the oxidation. Anyhoo, if you decide to take the plunge with a real buffer, the above writeup won't go to waste...lol
Later.
<--myself
03-20-2008, 08:25 AM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadRage212 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awww crap.
That orbital machine is just a fancy waxer.
Later.
<--myself</TD></TR></TABLE>
doesnt sound like you have ever used one. although the PC7424 is a POLISHER it can BUFF for SURE!!
That orbital machine is just a fancy waxer.
Later.
<--myself</TD></TR></TABLE>doesnt sound like you have ever used one. although the PC7424 is a POLISHER it can BUFF for SURE!!
03-20-2008, 10:54 AM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadRage212 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awww crap.
Anyhoo, if you decide to take the plunge with a real buffer, the above writeup won't go to waste...lol
Later.
<--myself</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hah thanks anyways man. "A+" for effort! lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
doesnt sound like you have ever used one. although the PC7424 is a POLISHER it can BUFF for SURE!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, thats looking good. Is the side that isnt buffed yet faded? or is that from wet sanding?
Anyhoo, if you decide to take the plunge with a real buffer, the above writeup won't go to waste...lol
Later.
<--myself</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hah thanks anyways man. "A+" for effort! lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
doesnt sound like you have ever used one. although the PC7424 is a POLISHER it can BUFF for SURE!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn, thats looking good. Is the side that isnt buffed yet faded? or is that from wet sanding?
03-20-2008, 02:28 PM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
I didn't say it won't work. I just don't think it will work as well. I used to be in your shoes and picking up a rotary buffer was the best decision I've ever made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwEyZw-qLPk
Check out this video 6:23 to the end...good demo of what I'm talking about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwEyZw-qLPk
Check out this video 6:23 to the end...good demo of what I'm talking about.
03-21-2008, 04:02 AM
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Re: Project: Bring Faded paint back to life - Milano Red 1994 Del Sol - Pics - Oxidation- Klasse (ne
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by needanew1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hah thanks anyways man. "A+" for effort! lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah but an 'F-' for reading comprehension...
Hah thanks anyways man. "A+" for effort! lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah but an 'F-' for reading comprehension...
03-23-2008, 04:20 PM
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Re: (needanew1)
You're getting a full round of applause from me. The car looks fantastic. Great job. If you had a white waffle pad and some fine fine fine Meguiar's polish you'd get a lot more of the color depth back but it looks like a new car without it.
Bump for a man who cares about his car.
Now just keep it looking like that and you won't have to do this all over again.
Bump for a man who cares about his car.
Now just keep it looking like that and you won't have to do this all over again.
03-23-2008, 04:35 PM
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Re: (RoadRage212)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoadRage212 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're getting a full round of applause from me. The car looks fantastic. Great job. If you had a white waffle pad and some fine fine fine Meguiar's polish you'd get a lot more of the color depth back but it looks like a new car without it.
Bump for a man who cares about his car.
Now just keep it looking like that and you won't have to do this all over again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you! Thank you! (Bow to the left, Bow to the right, Bow center) hahah.
I have a white CCCS waffle pad, what number is this meguiars that you speak of?
Bump for a man who cares about his car.
Now just keep it looking like that and you won't have to do this all over again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you! Thank you! (Bow to the left, Bow to the right, Bow center) hahah.
I have a white CCCS waffle pad, what number is this meguiars that you speak of?
03-23-2008, 04:38 PM
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And believe me my friend, this little blood sucker is going to stay that way, because I realllly never want to do that entire process again haha.
03-23-2008, 05:04 PM
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Re: (needanew1)
WoW!!! 
That is an amazing turn around that looks great, I thought for sure that the paint was toast on that. But you bought your self some time on the paint job. I really am going to do this process on my car to see if I can do the same and save some life on my paint job. Good Job!!!
That is an amazing turn around that looks great, I thought for sure that the paint was toast on that. But you bought your self some time on the paint job. I really am going to do this process on my car to see if I can do the same and save some life on my paint job. Good Job!!!
03-23-2008, 05:55 PM
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Do it man! Jesus, I spent about $260 in supplies/tools for this job, but saved 6-7 times that from avoiding a paint job, all it takes is a little elbow grease and time. I didn't think it was possible either
03-23-2008, 11:36 PM
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Re: (needanew1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by needanew1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thank you! Thank you! (Bow to the left, Bow to the right, Bow center) hahah.
I have a white CCCS waffle pad, what number is this meguiars that you speak of?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Meguairs #82, or Optimum Polish either one is great. Currently I'm using Blue Coral Revive it-DB and I'm thinking about changing back over to Meguairs #82 soon to see how the two compare. If there are any swirls on your car, the Revive It works great to remove them then follow up with one of the other polishes to be more adhesive and protect what you've done.
Seriously great job though, dude I had to check out the pics again. Very impressive for an amateur. Even masking off the windshield...people don't usually think of stuff like that unless they've done this a lot and get tired of cleaning off the cowl and wasting towels on the windows. I can tell you did your homework.
Thank you! Thank you! (Bow to the left, Bow to the right, Bow center) hahah.
I have a white CCCS waffle pad, what number is this meguiars that you speak of?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Meguairs #82, or Optimum Polish either one is great. Currently I'm using Blue Coral Revive it-DB and I'm thinking about changing back over to Meguairs #82 soon to see how the two compare. If there are any swirls on your car, the Revive It works great to remove them then follow up with one of the other polishes to be more adhesive and protect what you've done.
Seriously great job though, dude I had to check out the pics again. Very impressive for an amateur. Even masking off the windshield...people don't usually think of stuff like that unless they've done this a lot and get tired of cleaning off the cowl and wasting towels on the windows. I can tell you did your homework.
03-24-2008, 11:14 AM
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i wouldnt ever touch that turlte wax **** ever again.
if you can buy it at walmart is 99% crap.
looks nice tho man!
PS the PC7424 doesnt vibrate as much if u take the handle off, and just hold the head of the machine while u polish.
if you can buy it at walmart is 99% crap.
looks nice tho man!
PS the PC7424 doesnt vibrate as much if u take the handle off, and just hold the head of the machine while u polish.
03-25-2008, 07:08 AM
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Re: (welfarepc)
Word on the turtle wax man! Had no choice though, no idea where to buy quality products around here so I had to compromise it this time.
03-26-2008, 03:45 AM
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Re: (needanew1)
Order some of poorboysworld.com's polish with carnauba. I've been hearing great things about it. I'll be ordering some of it soon to see if its as good as they say.