kp

I have read in another thread that someone prefers gluing replacement rear quarter panels in favor of welding (due to possible panel distortion and grinding etc. etc.).

From an absolute beginners perspective with bodywork, is it a better choice to use body glue to attach the new panel or welding? Seeing this question in black and white, I'd say right off the bat the glue would be a better option. No panel distortion, no grinding, no burning through the panel....

So, who likes what? What products are available for this? Are they strong? Dependable? Do they crack or warp? What would you use to back the panels? I know very little of this glue procedure and any negative/positive input is greatly appreciated. Pictures are good too.

broski

In for more information about this body glue, I've never heard of it

Although I must say, it doesn't sound very safe

Eyger

The glue that you're referring is most likely a panel bonding adhesive. Panel bonding adhesives have been formulated to be a replacement for welding when welding is not practical. Attaching a thin sheet of metal to the car etc. I've read and studied a lot about the panel bonding adhesives and have even seen it and touched it with my own two hands. I have to say that it turns out to be the hardest stuff ever.

Read this article about them, it's a guy that works in a shop that works on a car. when he's working on it, it's the second time that the car had been in an accident and the first time, another shop used the panel bonding adhesive to keep the quarter panel on, which it's created to do, and the metal actually tore apart and the adhesive was fully intact:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/real...nding+adhesive

anywho, it's good stuff. Technology changes.

gorillafart

iTrader: (1)

i suggest you stick to manufacturer's specifications...

i've heard of some automobiles being glued together... like those 18wheeler big rigs... some of their cabs are glued together. its nuts, but its just as strong as welding. nonetheless, i'd stick to whatever the manufacturer suggests

Pandahatch

I use it nearly every day at the shop, bonding door skins, roof panels, etc... no warpage from heat with our pop can thin Honda metal, I like to use the glue whenever I can... on stuff like our hot rods, we weld everything, that's back when cars were actually made of decent gauge metal. If you choose to glue, make sure you follow the directions very closely and do the right prep work.

kp

What kind of backing do you use to join them together? Do you use a thin strip of steel?

I'll be replacing my rear quarters eventually on my 95 hatch and I know I won't be skilled enough with body filler to correct the warpage the welder leaves behind.

EDIT: And how do you hold the panel in place without it moving around too much? Tack welds on unseen areas?

kp

I suppose I answered my own question...

Just searched a bit on google and found THIS PRODUCT by Valvoline.

shocker911

i use norton glue line...it come in 1 min through 90 min. The 90 min glue is used for panels 1 min for emblems. the glue just makes time go so much faster then getting the welder out and welding the panel. you can cut out both panels and have the new panels on in a day and might be able to start finishing off the panels. The glue is water proof also.

Alot of people do not believe in how the glue really works but its REALLY works. I myself would never weld on a panel again. as long as you have 1/2 a inch you can glue a panel on

Luke G.

I am going to be doing it, the only thing is are you supposed to overlap the body with the new panel and have the adhesive underneath it? Is that what you mean by a half an inch?

shocker911

yeai used a tool called the joggler something along that. its creates a lil step kinda so you can glue the panel on the car so its almost flush. if i was home i would draw something up on paint but im at work. when i get home ill draw something up.

Luke G.

alright cool. I'll probably just work the fiber glass then putty so it goes flush with the body. But i know what your saying now.

shocker911

yea...it makes it almost flush so you use less fillers on the job

kp

Or you could use the "Butt sectioning" method pictured above and put a strip behind the joint of the two panels, and then putty in the gap.

Luke G.

i looked at it for a while but im pretty much a noob to body work. I dont understand what it is saying to do.

shocker911

the black would be the old panel then the red would be the new panel that you wanna glue on. What i would do there would run self tapping screw through the new panel into the old panel so the glue would have time to cure then take out all the screws then use a fiber glass filler over it sand it done then use a normal filler on it sand it prep it paint it.


but even with glueing you still in some places have to weld a lil bit of the panel on some cars not all are like that tho

Luke G.

ok i get what your saying now. Thanks.

kp

Both pictures below are cutaway views of your bodywork. I am talking about the Butt Sectioning method. One half being your old panel, the other half the new panel. There is a strip of steel behind the seam of the two panels to join them together. The steel strip would be covered in the Panel Bonding adhesive everyone is talking about.

The edges of the two panels are beveled (edges slightly ground down) to provide a dip in the body to hold the filler you would later use.

adevera86

SUBSCRIBED... this thread is def helpful i was going to bail on a project to find a better base with not so much rust but with this, it gives me hope thanks!

Luke G.

would the method of riveting/screwing the panel while the adhesive is on work? I would think that would work good.

shocker911

yes it would work there isnt alot of ways to make the panel stay unless you can use vise grips and clamps to hold the panel. The glue is water proof as well so if you wont wanna use a fiber glass filler you can actully squirt some of the glue on your mixnig bored and cover the holes with a spreader. then finish it off from there

Luke G.

alright i think im gonna try to rivet it on then if they stick up to high i can always just grind them down once its dry. Any idea how close i should space the rivets?

adevera86

is there a special type of "body glue" i should be looking for? like what brand and such and where can this glue be purchased?

mfef4dr

Speedgrip

Pandahatch

There are many brands, I have used Norton and 3M which is the same stuff, I have also used SEM, and Durabond, all which have worked great, it's all about what you can get pretty much. These adhesives are 2 part and require a special gun to apply them correctly as well.

precisionsc54

This glue is mad expensive but im telling you its as strong as welding. Ive used sem and durabond many times and was sceptical till i saw the metal rip before the glue failed. But ya you need a special gun to dispense the product and they range from $30-to 50 and up.