just painted my car, what wax to use when color sanding?
08-05-2008, 10:29 AM
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just painted my car, what wax to use when color sanding?
i used devilbliss gun
dupont base moon rock metalic
glasurit clear
needs to be color sanded, any recomendations on wax?
dupont base moon rock metalic
glasurit clear
needs to be color sanded, any recomendations on wax?
08-05-2008, 02:17 PM
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Re: just painted my car, what wax to use when color sanding? (drift2004)
DON'T USE A WAX YET. If you seal the paint job then the solvents won't be able to dry and this will cause tiny bubbles to surface in the clear. This is called solvent pop. When you block it down and buff it out with your compounds, use a polishing foam pad with a good polishing compound to remove the swirls. Wipe the clear with a microfiber towel to remove excess compounds and leave it alone for a few weeks at least.
08-06-2008, 03:43 AM
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Re: just painted my car, what wax to use when color sanding? (drift2004)
When buffing out your sanding work, I use 357 Magnum paint leveler and a wool pad.
http://www.topoftheline.com/32ozheavcutp.html
I remove swirls and marring with a white or yellow waffle pad and a smooth cut polish.
http://www.topoftheline.com/hitligcutswi.html
When the paint is fully cured(within a month or so) this is the wax I use.
http://www.topoftheline.com/bahcarcreamw.html
Between the time that you use the smooth cut and wax, there are all sorts of compound and pad combos you could use with an orbital to make it mirror perfect, but the first two are the main ingredients. Just be sure not to use a wax or a 'sealer' before the paint cures. Good luck!
http://www.topoftheline.com/32ozheavcutp.html
I remove swirls and marring with a white or yellow waffle pad and a smooth cut polish.
http://www.topoftheline.com/hitligcutswi.html
When the paint is fully cured(within a month or so) this is the wax I use.
http://www.topoftheline.com/bahcarcreamw.html
Between the time that you use the smooth cut and wax, there are all sorts of compound and pad combos you could use with an orbital to make it mirror perfect, but the first two are the main ingredients. Just be sure not to use a wax or a 'sealer' before the paint cures. Good luck!
08-14-2008, 07:25 PM
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When I worked at autozone a few years ago I had a guy come in and ask what the best car wax we had. He told me he had just painted his car and wanted to wax it. I told him he should wait at least a month for the paint to cure.
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure.
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure.
08-14-2008, 11:47 PM
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Re: just painted my car, what wax to use when color sanding? (drift2004)
lol, i just washed once by hand it it has been about a month, im about to sand it down next month
08-28-2008, 09:55 AM
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Re: (pepsiDX20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pepsiDX20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I worked at autozone a few years ago I had a guy come in and ask what the best car wax we had. He told me he had just painted his car and wanted to wax it. I told him he should wait at least a month for the paint to cure.
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
did you go outside and tell him "I TOLD YOU SO!"
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
did you go outside and tell him "I TOLD YOU SO!"
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08-28-2008, 11:15 AM
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i have some advice when it comes to this:
use a back up pad when wetsanding the car or your fingers will cut grooves in the paint and its very hard to fix and hide
also its all in the sanding dont just wet sand it with 1500 grit and buff it
start with 1200 ,1500 ,1800,2000, then get 3000 on a da and for each grt paper do the whole car twice
and becare not to sand though
and for compoud i suggest wizards good stuff
it says wet longer
and if you cant find wizards try to find meguars solo system
have fun and post some before and after pictures for us
use a back up pad when wetsanding the car or your fingers will cut grooves in the paint and its very hard to fix and hide
also its all in the sanding dont just wet sand it with 1500 grit and buff it
start with 1200 ,1500 ,1800,2000, then get 3000 on a da and for each grt paper do the whole car twice
and becare not to sand though
and for compoud i suggest wizards good stuff
it says wet longer
and if you cant find wizards try to find meguars solo system
have fun and post some before and after pictures for us
08-28-2008, 04:15 PM
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Re: (pepsiDX20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pepsiDX20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I worked at autozone a few years ago I had a guy come in and ask what the best car wax we had. He told me he had just painted his car and wanted to wax it. I told him he should wait at least a month for the paint to cure.
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
so wait your telling me that you can sand and buff with compounds that are much more abbrasive then wax, but you cant wax the after the paint?
He then called me an idiot marched to the waxes, picked one out and left. This is where it gets funny. He starts waxing the car in the parking lot. He rubs the wax into the hood. He looks at the hood, he looks at the rag. The paint literally came off on the rag.
Moral of the story is: wait for your paint to cure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
so wait your telling me that you can sand and buff with compounds that are much more abbrasive then wax, but you cant wax the after the paint?
08-28-2008, 04:34 PM
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Re: (projectTeG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so wait your telling me that you can sand and buff with compounds that are much more abbrasive then wax, but you cant wax the after the paint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not that wax is abrasive. I don't know what the hell happened with that guy's paint job coming off with wax but here's the breakdown:
A new paint job may be dry enough to sand on but it takes weeks to fully cure. There are solvents in the paint job that evaporate through the clear coat. When you compound, buff and polish, you remove the excessive polishes and you're done. If you were to seal a new paint job with wax, you can get what is called solvent pop. It looks like tiny bubbles surfacing in the clear and if you try to remove them it causes pits. Pits can cause lifting and that will only be solved by a new paint job.
Its just safer to wait a few weeks until you wax. Just a rule of thumb.
so wait your telling me that you can sand and buff with compounds that are much more abbrasive then wax, but you cant wax the after the paint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not that wax is abrasive. I don't know what the hell happened with that guy's paint job coming off with wax but here's the breakdown:
A new paint job may be dry enough to sand on but it takes weeks to fully cure. There are solvents in the paint job that evaporate through the clear coat. When you compound, buff and polish, you remove the excessive polishes and you're done. If you were to seal a new paint job with wax, you can get what is called solvent pop. It looks like tiny bubbles surfacing in the clear and if you try to remove them it causes pits. Pits can cause lifting and that will only be solved by a new paint job.
Its just safer to wait a few weeks until you wax. Just a rule of thumb.
08-29-2008, 04:51 PM
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the guy at auto zone it was probally single stage paint
AND WAX IS NOT ABRASIVE !!
who told you this BILLY MAZE????
ok freshly sprayed paint is very soft and very orange-peely
so to get rid of the high spots caused by orange peel you wet sand the car
this makes a much more smooth finish but the dont make sand paper high enough grt. to make it perfect
so you move on to the next step in the process.
BUFFING
using a combanation of diffrent slightly abrasive pads and compouds
buffing pads can range from highly abrasive like a wool pad to a soft soft foam pad
also you have difrent grits of compouds
for example the wizards systems most agressive is called turbo cut and then you finish with a less abrasive finish cut then you move on to polish or swirl remover if you need it most of the time your polish kinda looks like quick wax you use it the same way you spray it and wipe it off emeditly .
then after you have waited the 30 day period then you can seal the paint in with WAX
WAX IS A NON ABRASIVE PRODUCT
wax fills in the remaining inperfections or the now much smaller orange peel filling them in and making the cars finish on all one level makeing it reflect light all at once an the same level = making it look like glass
im only 18 and i know this people
granted i grew up in a body shop practicly
ive been trained by some of the best in my area
i started painting with my dads help at age7 (meaning he put my hand over the top of his when he would spray ) and i started spraying by my self at age 13 turning out usac sprint car parts for contos motorsports who have a 5 car out fit counting the back up car ive been spraying for a long time and have alot of experance so take my advice i might be young but i know what im talking about .
ps sorry about the grammar and spelling mistakes its typed in add format
and good luck with your car buddy
AND WAX IS NOT ABRASIVE !!
who told you this BILLY MAZE????
ok freshly sprayed paint is very soft and very orange-peely
so to get rid of the high spots caused by orange peel you wet sand the car
this makes a much more smooth finish but the dont make sand paper high enough grt. to make it perfect
so you move on to the next step in the process.
BUFFING
using a combanation of diffrent slightly abrasive pads and compouds
buffing pads can range from highly abrasive like a wool pad to a soft soft foam pad
also you have difrent grits of compouds
for example the wizards systems most agressive is called turbo cut and then you finish with a less abrasive finish cut then you move on to polish or swirl remover if you need it most of the time your polish kinda looks like quick wax you use it the same way you spray it and wipe it off emeditly .
then after you have waited the 30 day period then you can seal the paint in with WAX
WAX IS A NON ABRASIVE PRODUCT
wax fills in the remaining inperfections or the now much smaller orange peel filling them in and making the cars finish on all one level makeing it reflect light all at once an the same level = making it look like glass
im only 18 and i know this people
granted i grew up in a body shop practicly
ive been trained by some of the best in my area
i started painting with my dads help at age7 (meaning he put my hand over the top of his when he would spray ) and i started spraying by my self at age 13 turning out usac sprint car parts for contos motorsports who have a 5 car out fit counting the back up car ive been spraying for a long time and have alot of experance so take my advice i might be young but i know what im talking about .
ps sorry about the grammar and spelling mistakes its typed in add format
and good luck with your car buddy
08-30-2008, 03:53 PM
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Re: (pure_integra_45)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pure_integra_45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have some advice when it comes to this:
use a back up pad when wetsanding the car or your fingers will cut grooves in the paint and its very hard to fix and hide
also its all in the sanding dont just wet sand it with 1500 grit and buff it
start with 1200 ,1500 ,1800,2000, then get 3000 on a da and for each grt paper do the whole car twice
and becare not to sand though
and for compoud i suggest wizards good stuff
it says wet longer
and if you cant find wizards try to find meguars solo system
have fun and post some before and after pictures for us</TD></TR></TABLE>
1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 then 3000?? hahahaha wow talk about more steps than you need....
To the OP take some advice from someone who doesnt work at a Production shop (bodyshop)...depending on how many coats of clear were put on your car will pretty much be the limiting factor on how much you can sand off.... the cars i work on useually have 3-4 coats of clear...you used good Paint and clear which is a ....
The process at my shop (www.realsteel.com) is:
first take out all the orange peal with 600grit, after that we guide coat the panel we are working on with a very very very reduced color, if the panel is a light color we use a dark color as the guide coat and vise versa for a dark panel, then we wetsand it with 1200grit. the object is to be able to see the 600grit scratches with the guidecoat once you start sanding with 1200...it makes it really easy to make sure you get all the 600 scratches out...then we wetsand it with 2000 grit... We use 3M products, they are a bit expensive but by far the best out there... i use a wool pad with rubbing compound then a black polishing pad with polishing compound...
there is no need to go 1200-1500-1800-2000-3000 honestly.. id just do 1200-2000 in your case...3000 grit like does nothing..hahaha
since it has already been more than a month you clear is going to be hard as hell, so have fun wetsanding it then buffing it
.... you are safe to wax it now... I personally have always like Meguires Gold class wax ... have fun and let me know if you have any other questions
use a back up pad when wetsanding the car or your fingers will cut grooves in the paint and its very hard to fix and hide
also its all in the sanding dont just wet sand it with 1500 grit and buff it
start with 1200 ,1500 ,1800,2000, then get 3000 on a da and for each grt paper do the whole car twice
and becare not to sand though
and for compoud i suggest wizards good stuff
it says wet longer
and if you cant find wizards try to find meguars solo system
have fun and post some before and after pictures for us</TD></TR></TABLE>
1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 then 3000?? hahahaha wow talk about more steps than you need....
To the OP take some advice from someone who doesnt work at a Production shop (bodyshop)...depending on how many coats of clear were put on your car will pretty much be the limiting factor on how much you can sand off.... the cars i work on useually have 3-4 coats of clear...you used good Paint and clear which is a
.... The process at my shop (www.realsteel.com) is:
first take out all the orange peal with 600grit, after that we guide coat the panel we are working on with a very very very reduced color, if the panel is a light color we use a dark color as the guide coat and vise versa for a dark panel, then we wetsand it with 1200grit. the object is to be able to see the 600grit scratches with the guidecoat once you start sanding with 1200...it makes it really easy to make sure you get all the 600 scratches out...then we wetsand it with 2000 grit... We use 3M products, they are a bit expensive but by far the best out there... i use a wool pad with rubbing compound then a black polishing pad with polishing compound...
there is no need to go 1200-1500-1800-2000-3000 honestly.. id just do 1200-2000 in your case...3000 grit like does nothing..hahaha
since it has already been more than a month you clear is going to be hard as hell, so have fun wetsanding it then buffing it
.... you are safe to wax it now... I personally have always like Meguires Gold class wax ... have fun and let me know if you have any other questions
08-30-2008, 05:22 PM
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Re: (gringotegra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gringotegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 then 3000?? hahahaha wow talk about more steps than you need....
To the OP take some advice from someone who doesnt work at a Production shop (bodyshop)...depending on how many coats of clear were put on your car will pretty much be the limiting factor on how much you can sand off.... the cars i work on useually have 3-4 coats of clear...you used good Paint and clear which is a ....
The process at my shop (www.realsteel.com) is:
first take out all the orange peal with 600grit, after that we guide coat the panel we are working on with a very very very reduced color, if the panel is a light color we use a dark color as the guide coat and vise versa for a dark panel, then we wetsand it with 1200grit. the object is to be able to see the 600grit scratches with the guidecoat once you start sanding with 1200...it makes it really easy to make sure you get all the 600 scratches out...then we wetsand it with 2000 grit... We use 3M products, they are a bit expensive but by far the best out there... i use a wool pad with rubbing compound then a black polishing pad with polishing compound...
there is no need to go 1200-1500-1800-2000-3000 honestly.. id just do 1200-2000 in your case...3000 grit like does nothing..hahaha
since it has already been more than a month you clear is going to be hard as hell, so have fun wetsanding it then buffing it.... you are safe to wax it now... I personally have always like Meguires Gold class wax ... have fun and let me know if you have any other questions</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, you cut with 600 then go straight to 1200 and then buff? PROPS!
I never go lower than 800 and that's only if I'm reshooting two more coats of clear.
1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 then 3000?? hahahaha wow talk about more steps than you need....
To the OP take some advice from someone who doesnt work at a Production shop (bodyshop)...depending on how many coats of clear were put on your car will pretty much be the limiting factor on how much you can sand off.... the cars i work on useually have 3-4 coats of clear...you used good Paint and clear which is a
.... The process at my shop (www.realsteel.com) is:
first take out all the orange peal with 600grit, after that we guide coat the panel we are working on with a very very very reduced color, if the panel is a light color we use a dark color as the guide coat and vise versa for a dark panel, then we wetsand it with 1200grit. the object is to be able to see the 600grit scratches with the guidecoat once you start sanding with 1200...it makes it really easy to make sure you get all the 600 scratches out...then we wetsand it with 2000 grit... We use 3M products, they are a bit expensive but by far the best out there... i use a wool pad with rubbing compound then a black polishing pad with polishing compound...
there is no need to go 1200-1500-1800-2000-3000 honestly.. id just do 1200-2000 in your case...3000 grit like does nothing..hahaha
since it has already been more than a month you clear is going to be hard as hell, so have fun wetsanding it then buffing it
.... you are safe to wax it now... I personally have always like Meguires Gold class wax ... have fun and let me know if you have any other questions</TD></TR></TABLE>Wow, you cut with 600 then go straight to 1200 and then buff? PROPS!
I never go lower than 800 and that's only if I'm reshooting two more coats of clear.
08-30-2008, 10:04 PM
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09-03-2008, 06:29 PM
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Re: (gringotegra)
you have a lot cut out for you if youve never cut and buffed a car before. Dont even think about wax.. thats something you do down the road when the car starts getting micro scratches in it form washing it and driving it.. To keep it simple, I would either
A) find someone who is experienced with buffing and have them do it or at least show you how, you can ruin your paint job in about 5 seconds, all you have to do is sand through the clear or buff through it which happens VERY easily if your new..
or..
B) practice on an area you dont care about on your car or another car or something.. and I would just use 2000 grit only. Just fold sheet into 3rds and sand by hand with no block until the there arent any shiny specks or spots left, should be a nice dull look to the paint at that point, and then a white wool pad and some compound on a rotary buffer. If you have absolutely no experience buffing you really need someone to show you how man its tricky. If I were in your shoes, I would just not mess with it and leave it how it is until your confident you can do it. The colorsanding and buffing of a new paint job is just as time consuming and important as the paint job itself..
A) find someone who is experienced with buffing and have them do it or at least show you how, you can ruin your paint job in about 5 seconds, all you have to do is sand through the clear or buff through it which happens VERY easily if your new..
or..
B) practice on an area you dont care about on your car or another car or something.. and I would just use 2000 grit only. Just fold sheet into 3rds and sand by hand with no block until the there arent any shiny specks or spots left, should be a nice dull look to the paint at that point, and then a white wool pad and some compound on a rotary buffer. If you have absolutely no experience buffing you really need someone to show you how man its tricky. If I were in your shoes, I would just not mess with it and leave it how it is until your confident you can do it. The colorsanding and buffing of a new paint job is just as time consuming and important as the paint job itself..
09-03-2008, 08:47 PM
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Re: (NotNew)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NotNew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A) find someone who is experienced with buffing and have them do it or at least show you how, you can ruin your paint job in about 5 seconds, all you have to do is sand through the clear or buff through it which happens VERY easily if your new..
or..
B) practice on an area you dont care about on your car or another car or something.. and I would just use 2000 grit only. Just fold sheet into 3rds and sand by hand with no block until the there arent any shiny specks or spots left, should be a nice dull look to the paint at that point, and then a white wool pad and some compound on a rotary buffer. If you have absolutely no experience buffing you really need someone to show you how man its tricky. If I were in your shoes, I would just not mess with it and leave it how it is until your confident you can do it. The colorsanding and buffing of a new paint job is just as time consuming and important as the paint job itself..</TD></TR></TABLE>
He has a very good point there.... if you very easy to sand/buff through on the edges!
A) find someone who is experienced with buffing and have them do it or at least show you how, you can ruin your paint job in about 5 seconds, all you have to do is sand through the clear or buff through it which happens VERY easily if your new..
or..
B) practice on an area you dont care about on your car or another car or something.. and I would just use 2000 grit only. Just fold sheet into 3rds and sand by hand with no block until the there arent any shiny specks or spots left, should be a nice dull look to the paint at that point, and then a white wool pad and some compound on a rotary buffer. If you have absolutely no experience buffing you really need someone to show you how man its tricky. If I were in your shoes, I would just not mess with it and leave it how it is until your confident you can do it. The colorsanding and buffing of a new paint job is just as time consuming and important as the paint job itself..</TD></TR></TABLE>
He has a very good point there.... if you very easy to sand/buff through on the edges!
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