Good Cut and Buff Job
07-27-2007, 08:24 PM
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Good Cut and Buff Job
Basically what do i need as far as sandpaper grit, what kind of polish and ect....
Got a decent paint job just alot of trash in it, someone just help me out here
Got a decent paint job just alot of trash in it, someone just help me out here
07-28-2007, 05:09 AM
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Re: Good Cut and Buff Job (doubledeucehatch)
-1500-2k grit. wetsand, WAIT a few days after your paint job, clear is still gonna be soft, i would wait at least 7 days so you dont end up burning the clear cause its too soft.
-High speed buffer with 3m wool pad and foam polishing pads. 3m micro fiber towels
-you can use any one of the 3m polishing systems, 1..2..or 3. some like the older stuff, some like the new stuff, i like it all...
-3m polishing compounds...
This is the way i do it, i never get anything but mirror results.
-Adjustable high speed buffer: i use a makita.
<U>With a wool pad:</U>
-3m machine glaze-its a light rubbing compound
or
3m super duty compound(ONLY IF NECCASARY) if you have a ton of trash and orange peel this can help to more quickly get rid of the scratches that your going to get going over and over with the 1500 or 2k. if possible, just stick with the machine glaze
<U>With a 3m white foam pad</U>
white pads are made for cutting, they are more rigid than the black pads.
-Finnesse polishing compound- great compound to get rid of the lighter scratches that will be left over from the rubbing compound/machine glaze, after this step you really shouldnt have any scratches left
<U>With a 3m Black foam pad </U>
-black pads are soft and made for finishing/polishing
-3m foam pad polish(there will be a Dark color polish, or a light color polish, get what your car is). If done correctly you car should pretty much be blinging by now.
l-ast step: Hand glaze. a hand glaze is just another step in the polishing process. you dont have to do it but you can if youd like.
-Each bottle of compound is about 26 bucks(for the large shop sized bottles), and a set of black or white pads runs about 20 bucks, a wool pad is about 25 and if you dont have the correct attachment for your buffer it costs about 30 dollars for a good 3m one that wont rip apart .
-if youve never used a high speed buffer i suggest you go very slow and take your time cause its very easy to screw up your top coat and ruin your paint job.
-you should be able to get all of this at your local paint supply shop...dont use any silicone of wax products on your new paint job for at least 30 days, solvents and vapors are still escaping and the clear is not completely cured yet. All the 3m polishing systems are silicone and wax free and wont clog the pores in your clearcoat.
-High speed buffer with 3m wool pad and foam polishing pads. 3m micro fiber towels
-you can use any one of the 3m polishing systems, 1..2..or 3. some like the older stuff, some like the new stuff, i like it all...
-3m polishing compounds...
This is the way i do it, i never get anything but mirror results.
-Adjustable high speed buffer: i use a makita.
<U>With a wool pad:</U>
-3m machine glaze-its a light rubbing compound
or
3m super duty compound(ONLY IF NECCASARY) if you have a ton of trash and orange peel this can help to more quickly get rid of the scratches that your going to get going over and over with the 1500 or 2k. if possible, just stick with the machine glaze
<U>With a 3m white foam pad</U>
white pads are made for cutting, they are more rigid than the black pads.
-Finnesse polishing compound- great compound to get rid of the lighter scratches that will be left over from the rubbing compound/machine glaze, after this step you really shouldnt have any scratches left
<U>With a 3m Black foam pad </U>
-black pads are soft and made for finishing/polishing
-3m foam pad polish(there will be a Dark color polish, or a light color polish, get what your car is). If done correctly you car should pretty much be blinging by now.
l-ast step: Hand glaze. a hand glaze is just another step in the polishing process. you dont have to do it but you can if youd like.
-Each bottle of compound is about 26 bucks(for the large shop sized bottles), and a set of black or white pads runs about 20 bucks, a wool pad is about 25 and if you dont have the correct attachment for your buffer it costs about 30 dollars for a good 3m one that wont rip apart .
-if youve never used a high speed buffer i suggest you go very slow and take your time cause its very easy to screw up your top coat and ruin your paint job.
-you should be able to get all of this at your local paint supply shop...dont use any silicone of wax products on your new paint job for at least 30 days, solvents and vapors are still escaping and the clear is not completely cured yet. All the 3m polishing systems are silicone and wax free and wont clog the pores in your clearcoat.
07-28-2007, 07:29 AM
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Re: Good Cut and Buff Job (IMPATIENT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IMPATIENT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-1500-2k grit. wetsand, WAIT a few days after your paint job, clear is still gonna be soft, i would wait at least 7 days so you dont end up burning the clear cause its too soft.
-High speed buffer with 3m wool pad and foam polishing pads. 3m micro fiber towels
-you can use any one of the 3m polishing systems, 1..2..or 3. some like the older stuff, some like the new stuff, i like it all...
-3m polishing compounds...
This is the way i do it, i never get anything but mirror results.
-Adjustable high speed buffer: i use a makita.
<U>With a wool pad:</U>
-3m machine glaze-its a light rubbing compound
or
3m super duty compound(ONLY IF NECCASARY) if you have a ton of trash and orange peel this can help to more quickly get rid of the scratches that your going to get going over and over with the 1500 or 2k. if possible, just stick with the machine glaze
<U>With a 3m white foam pad</U>
white pads are made for cutting, they are more rigid than the black pads.
-Finnesse polishing compound- great compound to get rid of the lighter scratches that will be left over from the rubbing compound/machine glaze, after this step you really shouldnt have any scratches left
<U>With a 3m Black foam pad </U>
-black pads are soft and made for finishing/polishing
-3m foam pad polish(there will be a Dark color polish, or a light color polish, get what your car is). If done correctly you car should pretty much be blinging by now.
l-ast step: Hand glaze. a hand glaze is just another step in the polishing process. you dont have to do it but you can if youd like.
-Each bottle of compound is about 26 bucks(for the large shop sized bottles), and a set of black or white pads runs about 20 bucks, a wool pad is about 25 and if you dont have the correct attachment for your buffer it costs about 30 dollars for a good 3m one that wont rip apart .
-if youve never used a high speed buffer i suggest you go very slow and take your time cause its very easy to screw up your top coat and ruin your paint job.
-you should be able to get all of this at your local paint supply shop...dont use any silicone of wax products on your new paint job for at least 30 days, solvents and vapors are still escaping and the clear is not completely cured yet. All the 3m polishing systems are silicone and wax free and wont clog the pores in your clearcoat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
machine glaze isnt a compound.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1994412
-High speed buffer with 3m wool pad and foam polishing pads. 3m micro fiber towels
-you can use any one of the 3m polishing systems, 1..2..or 3. some like the older stuff, some like the new stuff, i like it all...
-3m polishing compounds...
This is the way i do it, i never get anything but mirror results.
-Adjustable high speed buffer: i use a makita.
<U>With a wool pad:</U>
-3m machine glaze-its a light rubbing compound
or
3m super duty compound(ONLY IF NECCASARY) if you have a ton of trash and orange peel this can help to more quickly get rid of the scratches that your going to get going over and over with the 1500 or 2k. if possible, just stick with the machine glaze
<U>With a 3m white foam pad</U>
white pads are made for cutting, they are more rigid than the black pads.
-Finnesse polishing compound- great compound to get rid of the lighter scratches that will be left over from the rubbing compound/machine glaze, after this step you really shouldnt have any scratches left
<U>With a 3m Black foam pad </U>
-black pads are soft and made for finishing/polishing
-3m foam pad polish(there will be a Dark color polish, or a light color polish, get what your car is). If done correctly you car should pretty much be blinging by now.
l-ast step: Hand glaze. a hand glaze is just another step in the polishing process. you dont have to do it but you can if youd like.
-Each bottle of compound is about 26 bucks(for the large shop sized bottles), and a set of black or white pads runs about 20 bucks, a wool pad is about 25 and if you dont have the correct attachment for your buffer it costs about 30 dollars for a good 3m one that wont rip apart .
-if youve never used a high speed buffer i suggest you go very slow and take your time cause its very easy to screw up your top coat and ruin your paint job.
-you should be able to get all of this at your local paint supply shop...dont use any silicone of wax products on your new paint job for at least 30 days, solvents and vapors are still escaping and the clear is not completely cured yet. All the 3m polishing systems are silicone and wax free and wont clog the pores in your clearcoat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
machine glaze isnt a compound.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1994412
07-28-2007, 09:31 AM
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Re: Good Cut and Buff Job (E-Rok)
alright...i really dont care what its classified as...its a lighter version of a rubbing compound in my opinion,thats why i called it that ,maybe not technically or chemically but im not a scientist., and it works the same way but not as harsh as the super duty compound, that method works well for me and well thats the bottom line...and are we even talking about the same thing ? all of the stuff in that thread was for old paint, silicone and wax based...the stuff i am referring to is non silicone or wax and is made for fresh paint finishing...but.that was definitely a good write up though for people who are new to it. lots of good info.
07-28-2007, 10:27 AM
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Re: Good Cut and Buff Job (IMPATIENT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IMPATIENT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright...i really dont care what its classified as...its a lighter version of a rubbing compound in my opinion,thats why i called it that ,maybe not technically or chemically but im not a scientist., and it works the same way but not as harsh as the super duty compound, that method works well for me and well thats the bottom line...and are we even talking about the same thing ? all of the stuff in that thread was for old paint, silicone and wax based...the stuff i am referring to is non silicone or wax and is made for fresh paint finishing...but.that was definitely a good write up though for people who are new to it. lots of good info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
all I am saying is glaze is nothing like compound. no cutting properties at all.
all I am saying is glaze is nothing like compound. no cutting properties at all.
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