ShockSmoove

I'm wondering if anybody here has done a DIY paint job for their hood.

I have a 02 Accord that's silver.

I'm planning on buying a brand new primered hood and painting it myself. I've never done anything like this before, but times are tough, and I'm excited to see how hard/if I can actually pull it off.

I know to use very light coats and take my time, not rushing it otherwise there will be a run in the paint.

I'm planning on using Duplicolor Perfect Match (I know the color code already) as well as clear coat.

So my questions are:

1. Since the hood is primered already, and basically brand new, do I have to put any other type of primer/adhesive/hardener in order for the paint to hold better? This is probably true for bumpers since they are plastic, but would it hold true for steel/metal? It's to my understanding that you can just take it out and paint it, hence "ready to paint" but just making sure.

2. How many cans of 8 oz paint and clear coat do you think will do the job? I was thinking 3 and 3, or 4 and 2.

3. Since I'm trying to cut costs, does it make a difference if I paint the hood on the ground separately, rather than on the car itself? I'm just trying to save some money on masking tape and possibly paper (though I think I can use newspaper) and especially prep time.

4. I've had a independent mechanic put on a new bumper for me and he painted it after he put it on. Looks real good and matches. He did it under an hour and told me to leave it overnight with a heater running to cure it. I probably wont do it this fast, but do you think the project can be done in a day?

Thanks for the responses in advance, and sorry for the long post, just need advice.

joeshmo

That silver is metallic and you're going to have alot of trouble getting it to lay properly out of a spray can on such a large area.

You'll want to scuff the primer before shooting your base. Use a scotchbrite pad and lightly scuff, then clean using paint prep or mineral spirits.

Those cans don't cover very well and the clear coat will not last or match the luster of proper automotive clear coat. I suggest saving your money and letting your mechanic do it.

ShockSmoove

Well, I'm trying to save money so thats why I'm wanting to do it. He wants to charge 300 for everything (not including parts), but I figure I could spend 60-70 on paint/clear coat and do it myself.

It doesnt have to be the best job..I'm going to sell my car in a month or two.

Also, when he put on the bumper, he didn't really prep it, just wiped it down with a towel I think and sprayed.

joeshmo

Do you know how to use/have access to a spray gun?

ShockSmoove

No I dont, I'd probably have to buy one..

joeshmo

Do you have a decently powered air compressor?

ShockSmoove

No, I dont.

joeshmo

Ah.

Well, in that case, I'd say the most important step is setting your expectations rather low. Those touch up paints are meant for small spots, not full panels. Light coats is good, make sure to follow the paint directions to a T, make sure surface is dust free and try to work in a well lit area. Good luck!

ShockSmoove

Well, if my mechanic can use it for a full bumper, I think it's pretty decent.

Would you recommend mounting the hood first, and masking off everything, or paint it separately before putting it on? Ideally I'd want to do it separately, which will allow me to still drive my car and in case it takes longer than expected.

joeshmo

You can do it separately, but I suggest painting it while it is mounted horizontally rather than vertically.

ShockSmoove

I was going to do it horizontally and on the ground?

ShockSmoove

Well lets say i mount it first, would newspaper be good enough to mask off everything? I know sometimes newspapers leak, so i was thinking of double layering, although it shouldnt be too big of a deal, since im not spraying directly at it.

Builda'Teg_92

Just get real masking paper...it's like 12$

(. )( .)

I've used Rattle can clear coat before and it holds up very well outside. After you shoot the clear let it bake everyday in the sun for a week than you can cut and buff it. I've done this to my rear bumper and my Type R spoiler and it looks great. I've used perfect match also, it lays Down even and great, it fans out pretty well too. Dont listen to one opinion. You can do it and make it look great without a doubt.

AztecEGhatch

I would ask around a couple of collision shops in your area to see how much they want to paint it. I think the labor time for your hood is 2.5 hours so it should be around $180 to have it professionally done. ( assuming a labor rate around $48)

You could do it if you choose to, chances are it will not match perfectly with the rest of the car but it will look close. Just make sure you evenly sand the whole hood with 320 grit, I would highly recommend buying/renting/borrowing a DA sander as it will cut out a lot of time and keep your surface consistent/avoid deep sanding scratches. Also I would use a sanding block (don't have to buy one, you could use paint sticks etc. get creative) and check the panel for low spots because even though its new, you don't know how its been handled and there could be dings, dents, or waves in the panel. The prep work is the most imporatant part, take your time and practice painting other stuff with the paint you are going to use.

ShockSmoove

When I had somebody paint my bumper, it was brand new, and he did little to no prep. Not too sure if it would hold true to the hood too since it's metal, but it definitely matches the car very good, and its still holding up. No fading, blemishes or marks anywhere..

Does anybody know if the fan tip is designed to spray more evenly? this is in comparison the regular aerosol can tips that you see, which can leave runs and sometimes spray out unevenly.

joeshmo

I know alot of aerosols use a fan pattern instead of the circle pattern so you can get more even coverage (overlapping tiny, heavy circles is a pain). I know for a fact that rustoleum does, and I'm fairly certain the duplicolor aerosols do too.

ShockSmoove

Can anybody recommend a type of paint prep spray?

joeshmo

Rustoleum makes a prep solution. Most preps will come by quart/gallon, not spray on. Wipe on with lintless cloth in one direction, follow behind with another cloth to "dry" and collect contaminants. Or spray on with a squirt bottle (windex bottle) and wipe dry in one direction. Best of luck!

ShockSmoove

should i sand with 2000 grit between each coat?

joeshmo

Absolutely not. Follow the instructions exactly as they are on the can. Paint adheres to itself chemically when applied within the proper time period. Sanding is to help with mechanical adherence only. It isn't a good idea to wet sand this stuff at all, even when it is finished curing, as it is a metallic and sanding changes the flakes.

On top of that, paint should remain tacky between coats and until cured, you won't be able to sand.

ShockSmoove

well, shouldnt you do it to make sure each coat is even?

joeshmo

No.

ShockSmoove

So, you're saying, normally you would do it, but for metallic finishes, do not?

joeshmo

I'm saying you should never sand between two coats of paint if you are painting it properly. It is doubly bad for metallic finishes. The only exception is rustoleum, which isn't real paint.

Just follow the directions on the paint can. Thin, even coats with a certain amount of time between each coat. Try to get where you have alot of light, little wind and little dust.