Removing CV joint when cage is completely broken
#1
Removing CV joint when cage is completely broken
So, I guess I am lazy, and I have always changed CV when I started hearing noise when turning. This time there was no noise. I was driving my 99 Odyssey on a remote road when I felt some front end wobble. I stopped to look at the tires/wheels, but everything appeared, ok, so I wondered about CV axle. I figured they needed replacing, so I wasn't going to risk too much driving 30 miles at reduced speed. I made a left turn when I got to town and heard nasty grinding crunching sounds. Within 200 yards i coasted to a stop. The cage is completely broken. The van has 225,000 miles, and I am not sure when the axle was replaced. I cannot get the axle nut to budge. I broke one (1/2) breaker bar using a 3 foot pipe extension. I bought a stronger breaker bar (still 1/2) and can't get it to budge. It has a handle, so I can't get my extension on it. So, my questions are 1) at this point is there any reason not to get a larger diameter pipe (3, 4, 5 feet?!) and crank hard on my breaker bar until something breaks? 2) I am concerned that the spindle end will be just as frozen and hard to remove from the steering knuckle. I moved the knuckle around so I could see the back side, (hoping there was something I could hammer to loosen things up) to no avail. Surprisingly I saw no other damage, so I am inclined to do what it takes to fix this. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This car has lived it's whole life in Southern California, and Florida, so no snow/salt! FWIW, I have considered the option of removing the whole knuckle and taking to to a shop. Part of what disturbs me about this option is the likelihood the drivers side will be just as difficult.
#2
Re: Removing CV joint when cage is completely broken
You need a really really good air impact to get those off.
The only other method I've had work is dangerous as hell, you rig the breaker bar and pipe against the floor and use the car engine power to "drive" the nut loose, but the bar and pipe like to go flying and if it doesn't pop you pole vault. Probably not great on the ball joint/strut either. And in your case with a trashed cage that probably won't work.
Raging on it by hand even jumping on a 6ft pipe never works unless you're lucky and someone else got it off before and put it back on with non-ridiculous torque. You need the sudden bang, and hundreds of ft lb torque.
The only other method I've had work is dangerous as hell, you rig the breaker bar and pipe against the floor and use the car engine power to "drive" the nut loose, but the bar and pipe like to go flying and if it doesn't pop you pole vault. Probably not great on the ball joint/strut either. And in your case with a trashed cage that probably won't work.
Raging on it by hand even jumping on a 6ft pipe never works unless you're lucky and someone else got it off before and put it back on with non-ridiculous torque. You need the sudden bang, and hundreds of ft lb torque.
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