XstreamRocker

I drive a '06 Honda CR-V. I was driving down the Interstate going about 70 mph. I had a full tank when I left to go driving in the woods. While in the woods I was turning around and ran over a stump the front suspension cleared the stump but something in the rear caught on the stump and the car stopped.

I got it unstuck and left and on the way back I noticed a few miles down the road that the gas gauge was at 1/4 of a tank. I took the first exit and checked under the car but no gas was leaking and I couldn't smell any either. While I was stopped the gauge suddenly dropped all the way to empty and the check engine light came on. Something here is seriously screwed up.

What the hell is happening here??? I checked all the fuses in the car and under the hood and couldn't find anything wrong but I have no gas gauge and the check engine light is on. What's going on??? The two problems seem to be related as they came up unexpectedly at the same time. I'm thinking a sensor in the fuel tank is fubar but I really have no clue what is going on.

gen_x_dad

Honda fuel level circuits have a sending unit that increases resistance as the fuel gets lower and the float drops down. As such, increased resistance in the circuit up to and including an open (infinite resistance) causes the fuel gauge to read very low, or empty in the case of an open in the circuit. This is a good thing because in cases where the circuit becomes damaged, the fuel gauge will read very low and alert the driver because he thinks he has low or no fuel. On vehicle equipped with the option, problems may also illuminate the amber low fuel warning as the circuit experiences increased resistance or an open.

I would check and see if any wires were damaged when the stump contacted the vehicle at the back. I wouldn't be surprised if a wire that is part of the fuel level circuit was damaged or broken. Another possibility could be something in the emissions system which is on the same circuit as and/or contributes to the fuel level was damaged as well.

When you have the MIL code read it should point you in the right direction. Good luck and hope the damage isn't too bad.

XstreamRocker

Okay, I understand what you're saying, but the check engine light to come on as well??? I guess that would be the emissions system there...lol. I'll get the MIL code read and see what's going on and report back.

gen_x_dad

I'd have to look up the schematics at work for the rear emissions and fuel system of the 2006's. We haven't had many problems like that with them come through the shop yet, but it is very likely that the ECM monitors the fuel level sending circuit as well, since they seem to monitor every other damn thing anymore LOL.

The MIL will illuminates when any operating, leak or failure condition meets a certain trip criteria and causes the vehicle to exceed emissions by 1.5x the federal standard. The dual pump rear 4WD system is mechanical and utilizes pressure differential so it has no electrical guidance or monitoring back there. And obviously if it was something in the ABS/VSA system, the ABS or VSA lights would come on to indicate a problem in that circuit.

It's also very possible that a line/hose could also have been cut/broken/pulled off from the EVAP system and the MIL was illuminated when the ECM tested it for leaks and proper operation.

Do let me know what it was Xstream because I'm really curious now to see what DTC was set. I get so damn bored of the run-of-the-mill gas cap MIL's. It would be fun to actually have to diagnose something like that, even if it occurred due to off-roading and you have a general idea of where to look .

XstreamRocker

I'm taking it over to Auto Zone today here in about an hour. I'll let you know what's up.

XstreamRocker

Oh and the stump hit the support bar that goes around the gas tank. I cannot see any physical damage except that the bar is bent and it has a lot of bark on it...

I seriously don't think that hitting the stump had anything to do with it but I will keep you posted.

XstreamRocker

Okay, you were right about it being the EVAP system. The DTC was P0498 and it came up as the EVAP canister being messed up. Do you know where that is on the car?

gen_x_dad

On the 2006 CRV's the EVAP system with the canister is on the back underside of the vehicle to the left of the rear differential snout.

I just Googled DTC P0498 this is you issue:

EVAP canister vent shut valve circuit low voltage

Something has obviously happened to the canister/vent shut assembly and/or the connector to it. If you don't feel comfortable working on it yourself I'd recommend bringing it in to someplace you trust to have it looked at.

As for your gas gauge, if it is still reading empty even though you know the tank is not, obviously something is amiss in the circuit which fuel level sending is on. Now, whether a fuse has blown or if a wire has been damaged/broken is hard to say without looking at the vehicle. But since you need the EVAP system looked at anyways, it's a good idea to kill two birds with one stone and have someone troubleshoot that as well.

Good luck my friend and let me know how it goes .

XstreamRocker

How much would that cost to fix? I don't have a lot of money here and I only have liability insurance on the car.

gen_x_dad

Sorry to hear that my friend. It's hard to say what it will cost without looking at it and seeing what the problem is, where the damage is and how extensive it is. Troubleshooting may be required to pinpoint the problem if it's not visually obvious, especially with the fuel level issue if you still have it.

I haven't inspected an '06 EVAP canister much because none of them have come through my bay with problems yet. I can look up the component diagram for your CRV in the morning if you like and let you know if the vent shut valve is integral with the canister or can be replaced separately in case that is what's needed. Sorry wish I had more positive things to tell you Xstream but being a tech at a dealership, I will be honest in that the PROPER way to do things if the problem is not obvious or commonly known is to visually examine and/or troubleshoot it.

I'm a big advocate of proper troubleshooting and all things being equal and assuming it isn't a common/known issue, I don't like to see people just throw parts at a car hoping it will fix it. It's like up here in Ontario when people come in with their DRL light on the dash and are sold a $150+ daytime running light control unit, yet all they needed was a $12 high beam bulb to replace the one that's burnt out and causes the light to come on.

If you have a shop or dealership you can trust locally, I'd just take it in there, explain the situation to them and the code you had read and ask them to look at it. It's too bad you don't live up this way because our shop is unbelievably dead right now so I'd have lots of time to look at it for you.

Well man I'm off to bed here because I have to work at 8am but I'll look up the component diagram for your CRV tomorrow for you.

Gute nacht my friend

XstreamRocker

well, did you look it up?

quickhondaz

had this problem with an '04 CR-V a few months ago. customer drove over something and actually ripped the whole EVAP cannister loose and it was hanging when they brought it in. if you can get it on a lift, get under it and see if anything may have been jammed up into it and maybe broke the connector to the shut valve or maybe torn off one of the vacuum lines leading to either the fuel tank pressure sensor or to the purge control solenoid. either way just have a look under there and see if anything appears out of place and go from there.

as for cost, our customer paid out the nose because they had to replace the entire cannister system and part of the harness, but it sounds like you should come out a good bit cheaper.

good luck and keep us posted...

quickhondaz

these are just a few images from our HONDA interactive network. they give you an idea o where to look and about what to look for. hope this helps...

gen_x_dad

quickhondaz pics are similar to the ones I have on my tablet at work.

You're going to need it looked at to see what the damage is. It's hard to say how much it will cost because it all depends on what is wrong.

Hopefully you don't run into the same situation that one of quickhondaz' customers did.

XstreamRocker

Okay, I'm sure once I get under the car, I'll know what these pictures are trying to show me... I'll definitely have to take a look at it and see. Like I said before, the gas gauge didn't drop until I actually hit the freeway and started using some gas so maybe I just have a ruptured line??? It's just a guess and a starting point. Can either of you show me what the EVAP setup on an '06 CR-V looks like, or are they pretty much the same?

XstreamRocker

Oh, and the check engine light went out a couple of days ago...hmm...does that say anything to you?

gen_x_dad

The '06 EVAP system looks almost the same as the pics posted above Xstream. As for the MIL going out, it's hard to say without actually having the vehicle there and looking at it. The code may still be in the memory and there could be freeze data to go with the code to tell a tech what went wrong and when. Best thing is to bring it into a dealer to have it looked at even if the light goes out, just to be safe.

Sorry man wish I could be of more help.

XstreamRocker

Alright, I'll take it to a dealer or someone and see what they say.

gen_x_dad

Sounds good. Any good and honest tech you trust at a reputable garage should be able to help you, but the dealership ultimately has the best tools, technology and personnel to work on your Honda.

I just always try to shy people away from letting things go unrepaired if they can help/afford it. Even if the MIL goes out, if it comes back on again a lot of time people just wait to see if the light goes out again. And that can be very costly as two customers found out at my dealership. They each had a code for the EVAP 2-way bypass solenoid (right next to the gas tank tank) on their '96-'00 Civic. Here in Ontario where they use salt on the roads in winter, they cab become victims of salt and moisture penetration. The light came on and went off and they left it. Then the light came back on again and stayed on. Turns out that the corrosion in the solenoid can cause excess resistance and over time this can burn out the drivers in the ECM, necessitating replacement of the solenoid AS WELL AS the car's computer.

Usually a good (and HONEST) tech will tell you if you can snuff out the MIL if you need to put it off for a short period of time. But it's usually a good idea to get things looked at or have codes read as soon as you can, just to be safe.

Don't let me scare you into thinking you'll fry your computer if you let your issues go, because in all likelyhood it might not be severe at all. But it would suck if a $0.05 piece of wire repair or a low-price component caused other more costly damages.

And if it's a simple problem or a quick-fix then at least you have the peace of mine knowing it's done and everything is ok

XstreamRocker

Ok. Thanks, I'm about to take it home this weekend when I'll have time to actually get under the car and take a better look at things. If it IS just a pulled wire or something would it void any warrenties to just patch it and go or would I be better off with a professional repair. I'm just curious b/c a friend who works at Auto Zone recommended a local garage to take my car to and if it's just a wire (which I hardly think it is) then I don't want to have to pay for labor just to fix it.

If I would be better off taking it to a professional, then I definitely would want to do that instead but I really would like to do this myself, since I DID break it...

XstreamRocker

If it will help any, I can post pictures of what I see under the car...

gen_x_dad

If you can get some pics of the/any damage that might help. If it is still under warranty I would talk to your local dealer and see what their stance is on DIY repairs. You'd hate for a simple wire fix to become a pain in the butt later on down the road.

Can't see why they would have an issue with it so long as the repair is done properly (solder, heat shrink tubing, wire loom, etc.) but dealerships have their own opinions and politics. If they give you the go-ahead and you feel comfortable with your diagnosis, there's no reason why you can't repair it yourself .

XstreamRocker

Here's a pic of the EVAP Canister. It's the best angle I could get without putting it on a lift.
http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MyCar008.jpg

And here's the gas tank and the damage to the bar in front.
http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MyCar002.jpg

Hope this helps!

gen_x_dad

Still a bit hard to tell Xstream.

Probably still best to take it in unless you feel comfortable in your own diagnosis and repair skills man.