JGGiant

Yes, I had to remove the shear bolts. They were not hard to remove and replace. They are not very tight and a punch was quite effective to break them loose.

I found the pins were not just dirty, they were worn. I had tried earlier to lubricate them with graphite. Since removing the pins, I have had zero issues.

Since you have experience taking apart locks, you will find there is no big surprises here. One roll pin to tap out with a punch and the rest is cake.

Good luck,

scottdh20

just fixed both my door and ignition this past weekend in my pilot for free.

follow the many write-ups online on pulling out the ingition. once out remove all the electrical stuff. this is were most writeups stop....luckly i found a locksmith who helped me out over the phone on a holiday weekend. there is a little black hollow rolled steel pin....you have to work that out oncei got a tiny but up i useda pair of fresh wire snips that pulled it right out. then on the backside the is another rolled pin, i used needle nose plyers to push it flush through the hole and then a knife to push it out enough to grab it with the wire snips.....then you can carfully remove the cylinder. (insert the key to remove) when you pull it out you can clearly see which wafers are not sitting flush....i pulled those sets of wafers out.

same process for the door, the biggest issue with that was a hidden clip inbetween the door skin and lock unit that is completely hidden from view.

my door and ignition now only have 3 sets or 6 total wafers....easier to pick maybe, but it has an imobilizer which is the hard one to get around anyways...total time for my firat time doing it was 3 hours....almost 2 hours on figuring out the door.

edit: dont forget the mini little springs...i used the wifes tweezers

Kevin Carberry

I was told by Honda that there is a re-call coming out in Feb about this...

kipwvu

http://www.automotiveworld.com/news-...006-acura-mdx/

Good news for people looking here now (sorry if you just dropped a bunch of cash on a new ig switch). Due to the issue that you can pull the key out when in gear (true on my ody), they issued this recall last month. Thanks for the tips, but I'm taking the easy out

GBY

AutoLocknKey

These honda keyways are crap. It's a combination of the key and the wafers wearing out to the point that the wafers no longer ride on the key edge, but fall down beside it. Happens in the doors and the ignitions. A good locksmith can repin the locks to work again. I charge about $85 for the door, $200 for the ignition. I recommend a fresh key to be cut too as a worn key will wear out the new wafers faster. New key will also need to be programmed.

That recall is for an ignition interlock issue(this is not the same issue that causes the key not to turn). I'm not convinced that they will replace the whole ignition lock, and if they do i'll bet they don't pin it up to match the doors.....

How did that recall work out for you?

stbengtzen

I checked on the new recall (Feb 2013 - Ignition Switch Interlock Recall) and the dealer indicated that the replaced parts due to recall DOES NOT include the key cylinder. They quoted me $432 to replace, leaving me with a different set of keys for the ignition. Not having that kind of money these days, I followed the suggestions in this post and was able to get back up and running. I used the hole punch and hammer method to remove the sheer bolts in less than a minute. The hardest part was removing the roll pin holding the cylinder in place. I ended up using a small Torx T-4 bit - inserted in roll pin and pried a little while pulling and it popped out. I then removed and discarded the worn tumblers/wafers (left about half in place that still worked) and reassembled. THANKS EVERYONE for the suggestions. Saved me a bunch of $$$

kfray

Glad you worked around the problem.

mountainclimber

I was fortunate enough to find that the snapoff bolts had not been "snapped off" makeing removale of my switch simple,,,what I done for nessecaty sake, and emergencies till i could replace mine was remove the ignition switch, remove the black cap off the end with the thick wires on it, useinf a screwdriver u can turn the *** inside the black cap, leaving the key in the switch so the computor will work.....

busybeezzz

I'm having a problem with both keys won't turn I have spent hours just going between both keys lucky for me I'm parked in front of my house my husband wants to try and fix the problem we really can't afford the dealership prices I want him to try removing the pins do you have a video showing the process cause this seems to be the easiest and most affordable method

wildriver

Thx for this all the useful posts here. The key on my 2003 Honda Odyssey won't turn anymore and I want to just get the ignition cylinder out and take out defective tumblers (like some members suggested) without replacing the whole ignition assembly. I want to know whether it is possible to take just the cylinder out without taking off the security bolts on the ignition assembly and dropping it? Dropping the whole assembly seems an overkill for what I am trying to do.

demmerm

After being stranded last night with cold weather coming on i was lucky enough to find this forum and get the van running. My ignition switch is hanging and i am using a screwdriver to start the van. What i need to do now is remove tumblers so my key will work. I have a valet key and a normal key both of which quit working in the ignition. How do i get to the tumblers?

danhammock

I found a video:
I done this myself about 2 years ago and have been running pin free since then with no problems in my Odyssey. I have removed pin on Cavalier, Dodge Dakota and an Odyseey. Remember, Google is your friend .
Have a blessed day!

DickBean

I tried every possible permutation of placing an old key near the immobilizer and nothing worked. You must have the correct transponder in the correct orientation within the immobilizer field for the system to work. In other words, cut an old transponder out of an old key and place it in the same position within a new key.....or just get your new key reprogrammed at a locksmith if the dealership wants your kidney in exchange.

Your immobilizer is simply doing it's job: cutting fuel flow to the engine. This means your code input is incorrect, or the dealership is feeding you nonsense. Go to a locksmith and get that new key reprogrammed.

The lubricant in your lock could simply be gummed up and needs to be loosened with an approved lockset grease solvent. You can find that anywhere....but it absolutely has to be lock-set specific cleaning agent.

The Honda manual specifically recommends center punching the heads and drilling them off. I wouldn't go banging around on anything that close to the airbag mechanism. For those considering replacement of some part of the ignition assembly, I've written up an illustrated guide to the entire process using useful info found around the webs, here: Replace Ignition Assembly on a 2000 Honda Odyssey