Montana MT 406 unOfficial Page
10-29-2006, 06:02 PM
#304
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Re: (91tealhatch)
problem with crome is that my laptop is a mac..and there is absolutely no tuning software for it..not even hondata. I need something completely self contained like vafc. What was the problem with safc jp?
neptune?
neptune?
10-29-2006, 08:25 PM
#306
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (The_Head)
check out this gangster lean
halfway thru the strut/spring install, decided to take it around the block for a spin. Night and day difference even only with the new struts and stock springs on the rear. When I got the rest done it drove like a brand new car :D
halfway thru the strut/spring install, decided to take it around the block for a spin. Night and day difference even only with the new struts and stock springs on the rear. When I got the rest done it drove like a brand new car :D
10-29-2006, 10:01 PM
#308
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Re: (91tealhatch)
BA u would want to see that thing slammed on the ground. it's not that i hate the apexi safc but basically it only tricks your map sensor, and a stock honda map sensor which reads in volts, once it hits to high of volts because of 10 psi or more, the check engine light comes on, i know a guy who builds a voltage regulator for that problem, let me know if you need one.
other than that if u are serious about ur car and love it, which i think is everyone on honda-tech, i would go with crome or uberdata as a cheap way, i've heard good things about neptune lately but haven't looked into it. Hondata is prolly best choice that or an aem, i do not have experience with these, but i been researching and asking aorund a ton about these, i would say if u have the money go with a hondata s300, s200 is out dated now, IMO the crome deal sounds killer though u can even download a basic version for free, go to tunewithcrome.com i think but yeah crome pro has alot more to offer than the basic
just my opinions and everyone has one
other than that if u are serious about ur car and love it, which i think is everyone on honda-tech, i would go with crome or uberdata as a cheap way, i've heard good things about neptune lately but haven't looked into it. Hondata is prolly best choice that or an aem, i do not have experience with these, but i been researching and asking aorund a ton about these, i would say if u have the money go with a hondata s300, s200 is out dated now, IMO the crome deal sounds killer though u can even download a basic version for free, go to tunewithcrome.com i think but yeah crome pro has alot more to offer than the basic
just my opinions and everyone has one
10-29-2006, 10:14 PM
#309
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Re: (EFn JP)
so youre saying that vafc would only be crappy beyond 10 psi, and and any higher id need something more extreme?
Im running .5 bar (7.something psi)...so do you think vafc would work?
How much for a voltage regulator and whats it all about?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told you can use Hondata software on a Mac. You just have to get rid of OSX and install a Windows OS.
lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah right. mac pwns windows
Im running .5 bar (7.something psi)...so do you think vafc would work?
How much for a voltage regulator and whats it all about?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told you can use Hondata software on a Mac. You just have to get rid of OSX and install a Windows OS.
lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah right. mac pwns windows
10-29-2006, 10:22 PM
#310
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Re: (aquarius)
yeah u can use a vafc below 10 psi, i am not recommending it over crome or anythign, cuze all the vafc does is manipulate the map sensor, basically trick your ecu, and with chipping/flashing your ecu, it makes the air to fuel map. but no nothing wrong with running the vafc on ur car if its below 10 psi, just do it right and don't tune to lean, pm me if u want my pointers, which i am a novice with it all still, but get a wideband, and tune a vafc is simple.
the volatage regulator that my buddy builds, it mainly makes the voltage unable to spike high enough to blow the map code, when the map sensor reaches a certain voltage it goes in "limp mode" and gets really really rich, i do suggest getting that volatge regulator is 65 bucks let me know if you need one. any more ?'s let me know
the volatage regulator that my buddy builds, it mainly makes the voltage unable to spike high enough to blow the map code, when the map sensor reaches a certain voltage it goes in "limp mode" and gets really really rich, i do suggest getting that volatge regulator is 65 bucks let me know if you need one. any more ?'s let me know
10-29-2006, 11:07 PM
#312
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (91tealhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u just get new OE springs and struts?
more pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
bought some Monroe struts new from Checkers and some used OE springs from Tippyman on the board.
My rears were gone really bad, and the car would bounce around so severely on some bumps that I had to hit the brakes to avoid going out of control. I got so tired of it. I can't do a lowered car at this point in my life; it was fun while it lasted.
I swear this thing rides like a Cadillac now. It does kinda look like a baja car now because of the 4" between the wheels and the fenders
. I don't have any more pics because it got dark out and my POS cam doesn't have flash. Will obtain more tomorrow.
more pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
bought some Monroe struts new from Checkers and some used OE springs from Tippyman on the board.
My rears were gone really bad, and the car would bounce around so severely on some bumps that I had to hit the brakes to avoid going out of control. I got so tired of it. I can't do a lowered car at this point in my life; it was fun while it lasted.
I swear this thing rides like a Cadillac now. It does kinda look like a baja car now because of the 4" between the wheels and the fenders
. I don't have any more pics because it got dark out and my POS cam doesn't have flash. Will obtain more tomorrow.
10-29-2006, 11:17 PM
#313
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Re: (31flavorscivic)
a wide band is a o2 censor that reads the a/f mixture straight from the exhaust. so u can tell were u need to richen it up or lean it out a little bit.
10-29-2006, 11:24 PM
#314
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (91tealhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a wide band is a o2 censor that reads the a/f mixture straight from the exhaust. so u can tell were u need to richen it up or lean it out a little bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i always thought a wideband gave you a specific ratio number reading, whereas a narrowband just tells you if you need to go higher or lower.
i always thought a wideband gave you a specific ratio number reading, whereas a narrowband just tells you if you need to go higher or lower.
10-30-2006, 05:16 AM
#315
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (31flavorscivic)
A narrow band sensor is good for reading 14.7:1 a/f ratio. It gets inaccurate really quickly if you go richer or leaner than 14.7:1 That's why most OEM Honda ECU's use them. The ECU is always shooting for that ratio, it doesn't care about much else.
A wideband sensor is accurate most everywhere, mine is good from 10:1 to 20:1
A wideband sensor is accurate most everywhere, mine is good from 10:1 to 20:1
10-30-2006, 10:19 AM
#318
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Re: (aquarius)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aquarius »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can i get one? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do a search in the sponsors forum, you'll find a few suppliers easily.
It's 20 and snowing here right now
Do a search in the sponsors forum, you'll find a few suppliers easily.
It's 20 and snowing here right now
10-30-2006, 10:28 AM
#319
Re: (aquarius)
i know a few people that purchased plx m-300 widebands for 300 shipped i personally bought one. other such as jp might say go with the lm-1 by innovative that runs about the same but is datalogging capable/ has a usb port. if your just using the wideband to tune with a apex theres really no need for the usb port unless you would like to get into datalogging later on.
plx makes datalogging models like the r500 which run around 500 ive heard there really nice
its your choice but if u plan on keeping the wideband in your car at all times the plx is ALOT smaller than the lm-1
plx makes datalogging models like the r500 which run around 500 ive heard there really nice
its your choice but if u plan on keeping the wideband in your car at all times the plx is ALOT smaller than the lm-1
10-30-2006, 11:59 AM
#320
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Re: (imptricer)
The LM-1 widebands are awesome. The difference between a wide band and a narrow band are that widebands use 0-5V signal and are accurate from around 8:1 to 30:1 a/f ratio depending on which one you have. A narrow band 02 uses 0-1V signal and is only calibrated to read stoichometric or 14.7:1 a/f ratio which is the supposed perfect blend of air to fuel for a good burn. Some honda's actually come stock with a wideband 02 sensor. But you need a controller to read the voltage. Another alternative is to use a Bosch wideband 02 sensor in conjunction with the Apexi turbo time which displays the 02 voltage and reading.
The reason an VAFC only works well below 10psi is that the stock Map sensor can only read about 14 psi above atmospheric pressure. So typically around 10-11psi you are maxing out your stock sensor. Using the SAFC and some 440cc injectors works pretty good for a simple setup. The check engine light will not come on if you use the AFC/440cc combo because it doesn't see the max voltage. But using Hondata, Chrome, Motec or something else you can make a lot more power safely. Tuning is the most important thing when turboing a NA engine. If your staying at low boost the AFC hack will be just fine. You also can look into additinal injector controllers or the rising rate regulator, which if possible I would avoid. But for low boost its a cheap option.
What are your goals with this car? Do you plan on running lots of boost on a built engine some day? Do you want an autocross/road race car, drag car, or just a fun daily driver. I built and turbo's my honda a few years ago. First thing everyone should realize is doing this means you lose a lot of realiabilty. No matter how good your setup is you will have to change sensors, gaskets, fix leaks or lots of other stuff more often. And if you set it up wrong depending on what you want to use it for it may be less fun to drive than before. Don't get me wrong a nice turbo setup is lots of fun but you will have to get to know your car a lot more and spend more time working on it. I personally like working on mine more than driving it sometimes so that's ok for me, but I know some people end up just giving up with all the small problems that can come with this. If you have questions I'm always happy to help and I can give you my number if you want some suggestions. Good luck to you and the best way to learn is to ask lots of questions so keep them coming.
Modified by TS4L at 9:13 PM 10/30/2006
The reason an VAFC only works well below 10psi is that the stock Map sensor can only read about 14 psi above atmospheric pressure. So typically around 10-11psi you are maxing out your stock sensor. Using the SAFC and some 440cc injectors works pretty good for a simple setup. The check engine light will not come on if you use the AFC/440cc combo because it doesn't see the max voltage. But using Hondata, Chrome, Motec or something else you can make a lot more power safely. Tuning is the most important thing when turboing a NA engine. If your staying at low boost the AFC hack will be just fine. You also can look into additinal injector controllers or the rising rate regulator, which if possible I would avoid. But for low boost its a cheap option.
What are your goals with this car? Do you plan on running lots of boost on a built engine some day? Do you want an autocross/road race car, drag car, or just a fun daily driver. I built and turbo's my honda a few years ago. First thing everyone should realize is doing this means you lose a lot of realiabilty. No matter how good your setup is you will have to change sensors, gaskets, fix leaks or lots of other stuff more often. And if you set it up wrong depending on what you want to use it for it may be less fun to drive than before. Don't get me wrong a nice turbo setup is lots of fun but you will have to get to know your car a lot more and spend more time working on it. I personally like working on mine more than driving it sometimes so that's ok for me, but I know some people end up just giving up with all the small problems that can come with this. If you have questions I'm always happy to help and I can give you my number if you want some suggestions. Good luck to you and the best way to learn is to ask lots of questions so keep them coming.
Modified by TS4L at 9:13 PM 10/30/2006
10-30-2006, 02:14 PM
#321
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (91tealhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u just get new OE springs and struts?
more pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely helped on the snow this morning, not bouncing everywhere. Thats what got me into trouble last snow season was the excessive bouncing
more pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely helped on the snow this morning, not bouncing everywhere. Thats what got me into trouble last snow season was the excessive bouncing
10-30-2006, 02:18 PM
#322
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Re: (31flavorscivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 31flavorscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
definitely helped on the snow this morning, not bouncing everywhere. Thats what got me into trouble last snow season was the excessive bouncing</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much did you have it dropped?
definitely helped on the snow this morning, not bouncing everywhere. Thats what got me into trouble last snow season was the excessive bouncing</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much did you have it dropped?
10-30-2006, 03:28 PM
#323
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Re: (wheelmanbg)
Originally Posted by TS4L
The LM-1 widebands are awesome. The difference between a wide band and a narrow band are that widebands use 0-5V signal and are accurate from around 8:1 to 30:1 a/f ratio depending on which one you have. A narrow band 02 uses 0-1V signal and is only calibrated to read stoichometric or 14.7:1 a/f ratio which is the supposed perfect blend of air to fuel for a good burn. Some honda's actually come stock with a wideband 02 sensor. But you need a controller to read the voltage. Another alternative is to use a Bosch wideband 02 sensor in conjunction with the Apexi turbo time which displays the 02 voltage and reading.
The reason an VAFC only works well below 10psi is that the stock Map sensor can only read about 14 psi above atmospheric pressure. So typically around 10-11psi you are maxing out your stock sensor. Using the SAFC and some 440cc injectors works pretty good for a simple setup. The check engine light will not come on if you use the AFC/440cc combo because it doesn't see the max voltage. But using Hondata, Chrome, Motec or something else you can make a lot more power safely. Tuning is the most important thing when turboing a NA engine. If your staying at low boost the AFC hack will be just fine. You also can look into additinal injector controllers or the rising rate regulator, which if possible I would avoid. But for low boost its a cheap option.
What are your goals with this car? Do you plan on running lots of boost on a built engine some day? Do you want an autocross/road race car, drag car, or just a fun daily driver. I built and turbo's my honda a few years ago. First thing everyone should realize is doing this means you lose a lot of realiabilty. No matter how good your setup is you will have to change sensors, gaskets, fix leaks or lots of other stuff more often. And if you set it up wrong depending on what you want to use it for it may be less fun to drive than before. Don't get me wrong a nice turbo setup is lots of fun but you will have to get to know your car a lot more and spend more time working on it. I personally like working on mine more than driving it sometimes so that's ok for me, but I know some people end up just giving up with all the small problems that can come with this. If you have questions I'm always happy to help and I can give you my number if you want some suggestions. Good luck to you and the best way to learn is to ask lots of questions so keep them coming.
Modified by TS4L at 9:13 PM 10/30/2006
The reason an VAFC only works well below 10psi is that the stock Map sensor can only read about 14 psi above atmospheric pressure. So typically around 10-11psi you are maxing out your stock sensor. Using the SAFC and some 440cc injectors works pretty good for a simple setup. The check engine light will not come on if you use the AFC/440cc combo because it doesn't see the max voltage. But using Hondata, Chrome, Motec or something else you can make a lot more power safely. Tuning is the most important thing when turboing a NA engine. If your staying at low boost the AFC hack will be just fine. You also can look into additinal injector controllers or the rising rate regulator, which if possible I would avoid. But for low boost its a cheap option.
What are your goals with this car? Do you plan on running lots of boost on a built engine some day? Do you want an autocross/road race car, drag car, or just a fun daily driver. I built and turbo's my honda a few years ago. First thing everyone should realize is doing this means you lose a lot of realiabilty. No matter how good your setup is you will have to change sensors, gaskets, fix leaks or lots of other stuff more often. And if you set it up wrong depending on what you want to use it for it may be less fun to drive than before. Don't get me wrong a nice turbo setup is lots of fun but you will have to get to know your car a lot more and spend more time working on it. I personally like working on mine more than driving it sometimes so that's ok for me, but I know some people end up just giving up with all the small problems that can come with this. If you have questions I'm always happy to help and I can give you my number if you want some suggestions. Good luck to you and the best way to learn is to ask lots of questions so keep them coming.
Modified by TS4L at 9:13 PM 10/30/2006
As far as widebands go...should i get one in a kit with a tuning gadget..or should i just get the sensor itself to be used with a vafc?
As far as parts go..i have every part of the air system...and all i seem to need is injectors and a tuning apperatus. Im getting new plugs and wires too just because my car is due. Do you guys think a new fuel pump is necessary for such low boost? Im gonna run my stock clutch til it burns out...and then i have a good connection for clutchmasters. Ill try to also get an lsd at that point.
Do I need a seperate controller with the sensor, or can i just get a sensor and the vafc will be able to do the rest?
For example...do i need the whole controller+setup...or just the sensor to go with vafc?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1273782
Or..could i just get one of these to use with a vafc and be okay? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1775443
Modified by aquarius at 5:48 PM 10/30/2006
10-30-2006, 07:29 PM
#324
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Re: (aquarius)
this is all you need
__________________________
|.....Overnight.........................| ||
|........Parts From Japan.............||'|";,__
|_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''''*|(@)(@)*****" (@) LMAO
okay seriously if you don't know how to tune or a relative idea i would gte someone who knows how, your fuel pump will be fine for low boost, i use a gsr one and i think they are the same, you're good on that part, you will need injectors, fuel pressure regulator, NOT a FMU, neeed to find a place to run oil from, 2 ways to do it i know of, and on some turbos are water cooled so you are going to have to route your coolant hoses differently, and i am sure i am forgetting some things, maybe get a step colder spark plugs, and for the wideband anyone is going to be relatively close, most companies use the Bosch o2 sensor found in VWs, anyway let me know if you have any concerns now this will desimate all with about 15 grand or more if we have to, get overnight parts from japan
__________________________
|.....Overnight.........................| ||
|........Parts From Japan.............||'|";,__
|_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''''*|(@)(@)*****" (@) LMAO
okay seriously if you don't know how to tune or a relative idea i would gte someone who knows how, your fuel pump will be fine for low boost, i use a gsr one and i think they are the same, you're good on that part, you will need injectors, fuel pressure regulator, NOT a FMU, neeed to find a place to run oil from, 2 ways to do it i know of, and on some turbos are water cooled so you are going to have to route your coolant hoses differently, and i am sure i am forgetting some things, maybe get a step colder spark plugs, and for the wideband anyone is going to be relatively close, most companies use the Bosch o2 sensor found in VWs, anyway let me know if you have any concerns now this will desimate all with about 15 grand or more if we have to, get overnight parts from japan