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one thread to settle all my confusion about the kswap

Old 09-30-2009, 12:20 AM
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Icon2 one thread to settle all my confusion about the kswap

hey guys , i've been reading here and k20a.org because i am interested in swapping a kseries into a 96-00 civic (EK) chassis. Im trying to research and learn but along the way , i got very confused about certain things so i would like to create this thread to settle all my confusion.

to swap a k20 into a EK .. u need the following from the RSX
- the motor , and the transmission

things u need from aftermarket companies such as hasport , etc .
- mounts
- shifter cable/box
- wire harness
- axles
- fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator , fuel lines
- hondata kpro

first off , am i missing anything ? .. second , i read that for the 96-00 chassis , there is no cutting / welding involved .. the mounts are bolt on , the custom shifter cables prevent firewall drilling , and the new shifter box prevents any cutting. is this all true ?


now onto the actual motor
- what is it about the k24 block that keeps it from revving pass 7k safely .. is it as simple as changing to aftermarket rods and k20 oil pump ? anything else to add ?

- what about the difference between the k24 and k20 head. i see so many people with k24 blocks that use a k20 head. yet there are people that make pass 300whp with the k24 head. y not jus keep it a straight k24 ?

any inputs and answers to this is greatly appreciated. thanks !
Old 09-30-2009, 09:09 AM
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Default Re: one thread to settle all my confusion about the kswap

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/?cat=3&p=437

Read through that guide, it will give you all of the necessary info you could possibly need.

There is no cutting or welding on the EK, if you get the Hybrid bolt in parts. If you don't you'll have to cut the rad tabs and the shifter. Cutting the firewall for cables isn't necessary with either the karcepts kit or Hybrid shifter.

The K24 has weaker rods, and the oil pump isn't as good. You are correct. Other than the cams, compression and intake not many other things will "stop" the motor from revving higher than that. If you do plan on revving a 2.4 out, change the tensioner and timing chain guide.

There are a few differences in the K20 and K24 heads. The main one is the VTEC mechanisms on the K24A1 & A4. The K24A2 (TSX) heads are very similar to the RSX K20A2 head, the biggest difference is the cams and VTC actuator which prevents the K24A2 head from being able to advance to 50* of timing. The head porting is said to be slightly finer on the K20A,A2 and on the Z series.

Technically speaking, you can change out the K24 head with all of the K20 items and sensors and have it ported and you'd be fine.

-DC
Old 10-01-2009, 09:13 PM
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Default Re: one thread to settle all my confusion about the kswap

thanks for the site. ill definately go through it !

- when you say the tensioner and the timing chain guide , do u mean an aftermarket ones or the k20 counterpart ?

- also , while changing the oil pump , is there anything else ? .. a oil pickup or baffle maybe >?

- if it takes changing everything to k20 items , its probably better off to jus get a k20a head huh ? .. what about a k24a2 head with aftermarket cams .. would that be suffcient ?

- is the k24a2 's rods , oil pumps , etc .... weaker just like all the other k24s ?


- if not , getting a straight k24a2 would be somewhat of a good idea .. then it would jus need kpro , plus bolts and cams to make some pretty decent power . right ?

thanks !!
Old 10-02-2009, 09:01 AM
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Default Re: one thread to settle all my confusion about the kswap

Originally Posted by 99black_em1
;40152110]thanks for the site. ill definately go through it !

- when you say the tensioner and the timing chain guide , do u mean an aftermarket ones or the k20 counterpart ?
Upgrade the timing chain tensioner with an aftermarket one, look at HR's site. Also, I would get new timing chain guides from Honda, and get the upper chain guide from the K20Z3.

Originally Posted by 99black_em1
- also , while changing the oil pump , is there anything else ? .. a oil pickup or baffle maybe >?
Use the Type S (K20A2) pump if you are revving higher than stock, but below 8600rpm, if you are going 86000rpm + get the S2000 oil pump from ERL. Changing the pump, chain and guides would be fine.

Originally Posted by 99black_em1
- if it takes changing everything to k20 items , its probably better off to jus get a k20a head huh ? .. what about a k24a2 head with aftermarket cams .. would that be suffcient ?
Essentially yes, but you don't have the added benefit of the K24's displacement. A lot of the swaping and building isn't totall necessary, you can get awesome results with a K24A1 block and a K20A2 type S head. Just swap the oil pumps for good measure and rock on.

Originally Posted by 99black_em1
- is the k24a2 's rods , oil pumps , etc .... weaker just like all the other k24s ?
Yes, they are not ment for high revs. The K24 oil pumps will cavitate much sooner than the K20A/A2 pumps will.

Originally Posted by 99black_em1
- if not , getting a straight k24a2 would be somewhat of a good idea .. then it would jus need kpro , plus bolts and cams to make some pretty decent power . right ?
thanks !!
The easiest thing to do is get a complete K20A2 swap, and simply change the blocks. You will have all of the parts you need. (with the exception of the K24 timing chain, headgasket ect)
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