vivid 02

who wants to buy my car so that I can build get a K24 project

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're 100% correct. Why I even thought it a good idea to post something like that in the honda-tech all motor forum is just retarded. If you took the time to calm down and read my original post, I never said it can be done without a port to the head.

I'd just rather leave it as is, so discussion of that can cease.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm disappointed in all the acclaimed h22 setups (except Randy) who talks about how much power they made, but never show up to race at any of the events.
Thats why I always pick on the h22 cause to me its all yeah it makes so much power but Randy was the only one that showed up to race and did really well

tempsohc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It sure sounds to me like you are trying to prove a point that, to everyone here, really isn't valid.

So you're saying, you can make 270whp and 199tq on "another motor" (we all know your argument is with the H22 here...) WITHOUT taking it to a machine shop? WITHOUT touching the head or valvetrain? Can you also make this kind power on off-the-shelf parts?

This build doesn't require a dremel, doesn't require a hydraulic press, doesn't require a line hone or sleeving, you don't even need a valvespring compressor! This build a majority of people here can do in a days time with basic hand tools.

This is getting old now...Its almoast as if, if Honda ever makes a I4 with 500hp and 300tq that lasts one million miles in stock trim, you'll still find a way to say the H22 is on equal playing grounds. Get over it.

Thanks for sharing the parts list and info for this build Nikos. Makes me think twice about spending another dime on my B.</TD></TR></TABLE>


The motor will not need to be honed or the bearings replaced or anything. The motor is so fresh while the h22 was discontinued in 2000. I would say that a the k20 build is awesome and yeah it seems to be allot simpler and cheaper but it isnt. It is allot more expensive. A swap alone will cost atleast 5k. I probly bet nobody could swap a k series into a eg for 5k.

SiB16A

K's are just too crazy.

mgags7

I wonder what it would take to frankenstein VTC onto an h22 lol

Its hard to beat the K with an H, an OEM 99mm crank, roller rockers, and a head that much outflows the H head in stock form. There is little mainstream support for the H22, though there are a few people who can make some pretty sick builds....**** DHR has a pretty nasty h22.

I suppose everyone keeps passing up my question about using a K series crank in an h block....

SiB16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder what it would take to frankenstein VTC onto an h22 lol

Its hard to beat the K with an H, an OEM 99mm crank, roller rockers, and a head that much outflows the H head in stock form. There is little mainstream support for the H22, though there are a few people who can make some pretty sick builds....**** DHR has a pretty nasty h22.

I suppose everyone keeps passing up my question about using a K series crank in an h block....</TD></TR></TABLE>

even a H2B would be hard to compare to a K

s10cky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

even a H2B would be hard to compare to a K</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im sorry, but what does an H2B have too do with this argument. That is just gearing with a b-series transmission.

Nikos

Thanks for the comments. Never heard about a K crank getting used in a H.

This is very basic and there is more potential.. about 20-30whp worth of potential with bigger header, better intake and bigger cams.

SiB16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s10cky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sorry, but what does an H2B have too do with this argument. That is just gearing with a b-series transmission.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was responding to the person before me, maybe if you would read you'll get it.

doood

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was responding to the person before me, maybe if you would read you'll get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not seeing the relevance in what you posted to what the guy before you posted

A train

oh **** here we gp with the my h motor crap again and dhr a wicked h motor? what has he done with it, my little b series motor put the smoke on the dhr car first time out, with that kind of power and set up should be going 10's and believe me we will hit a 10 in our crx soon and its a ugly P.O.S. but its fast with a b series! it is #9 on the h-t am street ladder! anyways back to the thread k motors are to die for and thats a nice write up nikos! thanks

Nikos

YOU CAN'T STOP A TRAIN

A train

thats a good one nikos!

alterdcreations

is anybody else making a accord mount kit???
maybe a need to learn how to weld

SiB16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its hard to beat the K with an H</TD></TR></TABLE>

Paris

You know what Chad, forget u man cause Red Zones B16 VW bug is gonna eat u up. That bug will stop A Train lol. Its all about b-series. lol. Good job on the simple but expensive build. We have built similar builds and may post up our top secret info in a few days. 270whp is great for a track car but daily driving with that much power is a pain. Its hard enough driving with 240 whp(b-series 91 pump only). I sorta miss the days of 210 whp 1.8's. back in 01.

null.

most of the stuff nikos put down are pretty much retail price, nowadays you can find alot of people selling them on forums for way less.


maybe you should buy my hytech spec III cams that i'm selling to make more power! (shameless plug)

Nikos

I had to post retail pricing. If I were to say that my wiseco dealer buddy gave me the pistons to $300 a set, that Jeff from IB spec gave me the rods for cost, that I got the accord block for $350.... yhat the rsx type s head was bought off ebay for $650, then how fair would that be since most people cannot get these deals all time?

But yeah in theory, this longblock could have run me around $3000 including the bearings, oil pump, IPS cams and whatever else a longblock needs.. timing chain, cover, gears, cover, manifold, Throttle body, coils, VTEC solenoid, VTC actuator, water lines, water pump, etc.......

So...

$3000 for the motor
$700 for rsx type s tranny
$800 for quaife LSD
$850 K pro
$1000 DTRFAB header
$500 mounts
$350 drive shaft shop axles
$300 hybrid racing harness
$300 for fuel rail, lines and Fuel Pressure Regulator
$200 engine harness and charging harness
$100 alternator and starter
$100 Ep3 idle pulley and belt
-------------------------------------------
$8200

but it is also unfair to look at this number like this because that includes the cost of making the car K swap ready... If the car was already ready to take the K series motor, it would be around $2000-$3000 cheaper depending on the header used etc...

Around where I live, shops still charge customers $6000 for a GSR swap so I know it is worth it to get a K going..

No matter what you do, it is always nice to know your options.. That's what it is all about.

Here's a picture of my old stock TSX EG



Since then, I sold the TSX motor and dropped a stock accord motor in it...



to get the car running again while building something else for the spring..

My point is that once the car is K ready, it costs peanuts to drop a K motor in there... The hard part is getting the car to the K state. But I guess that is a topic for the hybrid forum

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

nikos should also mention that the non type s 2.0 and non tsx 2.4 setups can work with the tsx/type s rocker assy and cams and make phenominal power ... upgrading to good oilpump though.

Nikos

the non type s 2.0 and non tsx 2.4 setups can work with the tsx/type s rocker assy and cams and make phenominal power ... upgrading to good oilpump though

Stinkycheezmonky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nikos should also mention that the non type s 2.0 and non tsx 2.4 setups can work with the tsx/type s rocker assy and cams and make phenominal power ... upgrading to good oilpump though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't they still have poopy low CRs though? Not that that's necessarily a bad thing, but for the cost of "getting the car K-ready" as you put it Nikos, seems like there might be more...worthwhile options available. I legitimately haven't seen any dynos or anything of these setups though, so I might be 100% wrong about that.

D-Rob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Around where I live, shops still charge customers $6000 for a GSR swap so I know it is worth it to get a K going..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

****, dude, send your people my way. :-P I can barely get $3,000 installed for those things!

ShaunRR

Whats with the axle choice? How come you didn't do the OEM axle solution you wrote an article on? Were you using Hybrid mounts?

How do you like that stock Accord motor? I hear those are fun motors for daily driving, when they are put in a light chassis

Nikos

The 270whp is using the stage 2.9 Driveshaftshop axles that come with a 12 month warranty..

Nothing worse than reading about fellow enthusiasts going to the track and having to tow their car home due to broken axles.

The OEM hybrid axle combo with the GSR outers is good if you can find or already have some outers in good condition..

These k24a motors are delivering a lot of torque right off the bat so they can be hard on the axles. Many people are upgrading their hubs to bigger ones but that can also be a pain to do without a press etc...

Overall, we like to know that we can drop the clucth at 8000 and not have to worry about the axles breaking

http://www.k20a.org/burnout.wmv here;s Mark driving the car ,

mgags7

Getting the car "K ready" is the only reason I say that K swaps aren't worth it right now. The stuff to swap in a K is just too expensive currently if you ask me. $8200 for parts on a stock swap is a lot. You can do an h22 swap for much less than that, and the $6000 you're quoting for a GSR swap is with labor and all, and that is at an exorbitant rate.

<u>If</u> the "K ready" stuff were to come way down in price it would be much more feasible to swap in a built K like this, but for now, I'd still go with an H, you can spend the money you save on better custom stuff that isn't available for the H like the K gets OEM. That should level the playing field a bit.

I hope you k series guys can calm down a bit and just read into what I'm saying, I'm only trying to rationalize the cost situation here a bit....take it or leave it