burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

1992 Civic CX Manual
BONE STOCK VIRGIN 37820-P75-A01
2000 Integra LS Auto Motor and Harness
1994 Integra GS-R Manual Trans

ALL WIRING IS STOCK plugged right into pass side shock towers. Ran a wire with OEM pins from the dizzy tachometer signal to the tachometer signal at the shock tower. Three plugs from various auto trans sensors are left unplugged and zip tied up out of the way. EVERYTHING else is plugged in tight and I have NO CELs after 3 days. Idle is smooth as silk @ 500 after warm and it does the fast idle perfect when cold. Car is VERY responsive right to 5,750 where I get fuel cut-out. I thought fuel cut on 2000 Integras was 7,300 and red line was 6,800? Or is my info bad and 5,750 is where it should be? There are ZERO issues with the swap other than fuel cut being early.

Speedo is fairly accurate. Reads 120MPH @ actual 113MPH. If that matters.


Lemme know if pics of anything would help.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

85 views and not one reply?

Guess I'll look for ANOTHER P75 to try in place of mine until someone has a better idea.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

May sound like a stupid question but is your check engine light on while driving the vehicle?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

How do you know its exactly 5750? And idle at 500 seems low too. Perhaps the tach is off or bad ICM.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Not a stupid question at all, but that's wjhy I answered it already in the OP.
It's prob closer to 600, it's JUST above the bottom line which I believe is 500 RPM. 650 is ideal according to the FSM. The fuel cut occurs DEAD between 5500 and 6000 every time. Any way to confirm the tach signal being sent is correct with a multimeter?


FWIW: Since the ECU is the stock EMS I think it was probably in the right section before... BUT if it gets me answers whatever LOL.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Different P75, same fuel cut.


Starting to think my tach is WAY off. It cut at nearly the same spot on my DOHC ZC with a DX ECU (LIGHTLY LOWER).

Fuel cut on that ECU should have been 7200. I always assumed it was because of the wonky ECU/DOHC motor combo or some ****.

Thinking of MAYBE getting one of the OMNI tachs. First going to confirm actual RPM with a timing light ASAP. If it IS in fact off does anybody have ACTUAL EXPERIENCE with the OMNI tachometers? Are they indeed as accurate as claimed?

stupidhard

your engine wire harness is obd2b and you're plugging into an obd1 chassis harness.

I think that's where the rub is. im not completely certain of what wires need to be switched but the two are very different. obd2a and obd2b are different enough to not be a plug and play affair.

you may need to look at rywire for a harness adapter.

you should definitely look at the pin out for your ecu and make sure that you don't have a couple of sensors crossed up cause if everything is good (sensors and ecm) then that would point to:

(just an example) rpm signal from dizzy might be routed to the wrong pin on the ecu.

that's really all I got, without lookin at pinouts.

I hope that gets the gears turning, I could be completely wrong, but nobody has mentioned the OBD1,2a,and 2b thing yet... so I went there.

-chris

p.s. if you're not sure how accurate your tach is and your speedo is pretty close you can figure out if you are actually hitting the rev limit.

there is a sticky in the transmission forum that will give you top speeds for each gear for different transmissions.

if you hit fuel cut before 27mph in first gear then you know you are cutting fuel too early...

sodaZC

Food for thought: your dizzy retarded too far can make the tach needle jump around and act stupid or not display the correct rpm when you climb. Also an ignition control module can do the same. Don't get stuxk on fuel being the issue it doesn't sound likely. Also yes you said no CEL but does the cel pop on for a couple seconds during KOEO? Just simple to make sure bulb isn't burnt.

stupidhard

^ this guys gotta brain!

I agree, fuel cut isn't the issue, its the symptom.

never heard about an overly retarded dizzy being suspect but its definitely plausible and close to the top of the list of causes.

-chris

JRCivic1

It is common knowledge that EG tachometers have "lazy" needles late in their lifespan... and you are talking about a gauge that could be 23 years old. My EG DX Coupe currently suffers from this malady.

Let me suggest this test to help diagnose your problem:

You mentioned that you have a GSR transmission, so drive out on to an Interstate near you, and in 5th gear, hold your speed steady at an indicated 80 mph. This should place your tach needle between 3900 and 4100 rpm at this speed... if it indicates a LOWER number (like say 3500 rpm), then you have a LAZY tach. Either swap it out with another one (like the Omnipower product that you mentioned above) or learn to live with it.

Good luck.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

No, ACTUALLY it's ENTIRELY plug and play. People spouting off bad info is why it was so freaking hard for me to get the right info in the first place.

https://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine...ing-s-3125964/

DS is plug and play EXCEPT tach signal.
Tach signal isn't sent from the dizzy on OBD2 so to get it, it must be run from the dizzy and you'll need to steal an OBD2 pin to make it plug and play. See post #2

https://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine...d-you-3213615/

The passenger side is plug and play except 1 plug from the OBD2 harness will be left unplugged.

CEL light itself is fine. Key On Engine Off it lights for a few seconds with all the others that should. Dizzy is EXACTLY where Acura put it when they tuned donor car up for my step mother before it was wrecked. SLIGHTLY advanced from center. COULD be ICM. But the car's running GREAT. Wold think there's be other symptoms for a faulty ICM. I just took it on a 650 mile road trip with no hiccups.

LOL @ your contributions thus far. Thank you for the effort.

This IS the issue. On said road trip 80 was my average speed and it displays about 3250, dead steady, at 80 MPH in 5th. GSR trans. Thanks for helping diagnose sir!

stupidhard

fair enough....

sorry for the "bad info" but when I said (just an example) it was purely that. I wasn't saying that was an actual scenario.

so over the course of the thread your "problem" has changed from "why am I getting early fuel cut?" to "im not sure if my tach is correct"

I had mentioned a similar test to what JRCivic1 posted.
his test made more sense but I was still getting at the same point which is.. if you hit the listed top speeds for the ratios in your transmission then you are not hitting fuel cut too early.

you must have gotten a little bent out of shape to say that my contributions are laughable. im no expert but at least I thought enough to be able to rule out any wiring hiccups after I said anything about your swap not being buttoned up properly.

so I had a little chuckle of my own because you waited for someone else to reply with something that required you to think less.

anyway, im glad you figured it out. now we have all had a good laugh, no hard feelings, glad to be of service

-chris

JRCivic1

Happy to help... glad you got it figured out.