Jonathan_ED3

No matter what I do, It keeps leaking around the lip.

I've gone through 3 gaskets now, two OEM and one offbrand, and it always does the same thing.

I've TQ'd them right, and in the correct sequence, but it just keeps leaking.

Does anybody have any tips? I've even tried gasket sealer, but it always starts a small leak along the backside of the block, and then starts slowly seeping out in other places as well.

junglerunna

Did you make sure you took old gasket off? Stupid question I know but I had to ask it. Whats the surface clean before you but the new gasket on. This is very strange also, because I never replaced this gasket on my h22 and yet Im not experiencing this problem.

NeMoo

Is your oilpan straight? If you've banged it against a rock o something it might have gotten deformed. And have you tried Loctite-ing the bolts/nuts?

Jonathan_ED3

surface is VERY clean.....didn't leave the old gasket on.

I've banged my oil pan....but it was leaking before I did that, so I don't think that's the problem.

It seems to me like the factory TQ specs just isn't enough to keep it from leaking with a rubber gasket.

I wish I could somehow use cork

I want to try to get the bolts a little harder on there, but I'm afraid of ruining something.

Doctor CorteZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hot_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems to me like the factory TQ specs just isn't enough to keep it from leaking with a rubber gasket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you tighten it anymore , it will get worse.

are you using Hondabond in the suggested locations when installing the gasket ?

OBD1 Kenobi

Clean off the surface of the pan and the gasket with brake cleaner. when you are confident that you have cleaned it completely, with clean hands, or best with latex gloves, squeeze and spread Permatex grey or copper sealant along the pan rim and gasket's opposite side. Once the oilpan is back on the block and the job is done, try to give it an hour or so to dry enough to hold back the oil.

Jonathan_ED3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBD1 Kenobi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean off the surface of the pan and the gasket with brake cleaner. when you are confident that you have cleaned it completely, with clean hands, or best with latex gloves, squeeze and spread Permatex grey or copper sealant along the pan rim and gasket's opposite side. Once the oilpan is back on the block and the job is done, try to give it an hour or so to dry enough to hold back the oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is exactly what I did the first time around! Maybe I'll give it another shot.

Is it possible I used TOO much of the sealer? How thick of a bead should I lay down?

Hybrid96EK

It sounds to me like the pan is warped. Unless you have a pretty good eye and good metal working skills, it could be worthless at this point.

Si Integra

I have the same problem..Except I have never banged the oil pan...never even scraped it. I tried using that permatex indian head stuff...that didn't even work..all the old shool mechanics say thats the best?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same problem..Except I have never banged the oil pan...never even scraped it. I tried using that permatex indian head stuff...that didn't even work..all the old shool mechanics say thats the best?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its good stuff, yes. But it can't make up for a warped part. Once the part is warped you are pretty much up the creek. You don't even need to drop it to warp it. If you over tighten the bolts, it can warp easily also.

Jonathan_ED3

how would I know if it's warped enough to not seal?