Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

I'm wanting to get my 89 CRX HF jdm h23a swap going but this is driving me nuts. I can get a JDM H23A with LSD H trans for $800. Custom 500hp axles for $400. Let's just call it $1,500 for dealing with cable to hydro and whatever else I'm forgetting, Now an LSD B trans is $1,500 or $2,000 for the 4.7 ratio. Plus I'd need an H2B for $500. I could get away with stock axles as far as I understand but I'd have to upgrade eventually anyway.

Also using the H trans I won't have to raise my hood and it sits level in the engine bay. Using a B the mounts lift one side of the engine up and the hood needs to be raised. I want this car to look stock. Quiet of an exhaust I can run, stock HF steelies with r888r's etc.

Why do people not like the H trans? Do they suck at high rpm shifts? Going to keep the long block stock for a while until I can save up, but eventually going to redo the head. Porting, cams, valvetrain, raise compression, port manifold etc. and try to get as close to 300whp as possible.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

B series trans is lighter, better gearing, better linkage. I believe the clutch/flywheel assembly is smaller diameter therefore also lighter so less reciprocating mass which equals better engine response.

H series trans is larger, weighs more, even the shortest geared H series is longer than most B series trans, cable linkage SUCKS and requires solid bushings/short shifter to be even half decent. RSX cables are the best option I believe but I have no hands on experience with them.

Ultimately you could just put a shorter final drive in the H series trans to achieve nearly the same results as far as gearing is concerned and it would likely come out cheaper in the end. Theoretically the H trans should be stronger too.

As an Accord guy for 12+ years I can say that I would run a B series trans if I had the option. I can't tell you how many races I've lost because I missed a gear due to old, crappy cables that either stretched or broke banging gears. I've replaced 3 sets in the last 5 years alone.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

Thanks for the info! I love the way my friends ITR shifted. Drove a prelude once and it felt sloppy, like most e36 BMW manuals but not terrible. My biggest fear is it cant take high rpm and just grind. Would fresh cables solve your high rpm shift problems? I'd be more than okay with that. With the H trans I can use the stock hood and not have to massage the chassis too much with ESP's kit.

The way h2b lifts one side of the engine out of the engine bay is unacceptable for a car that will see street time. I didn't know it was that bad. At this point it has to be an H trans. Should've done more reading up before I made a new thread :(

Thanks again Aradin. I think I'd be okay with slightly taller gearing, ~1500lb CRX with a torquey jdm h23 and 205/60/13 22.7" diameter tires. Will play with a speed/rpm calc first though.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

New cables would help but they're $400+ from a dealer and I know they'll eventually break or stretch from slamming gears as well. At that point it would probably be more beneficial to swap to RSX cables anyway considering the cost. Usually I just grab a used set out of the junkyard or off eBay. It's not really a high rpm related thing as that would be more of a synchro issue and the H/F series are pretty stout in that area. I mean I take my ~360whp turbo F20B to 7800 every time I drive it with a transmission that has 300k+ on it and I don't have any issues with the trans itself. The cables themselves just don't like being manhandled. They all seem to break in the same area which is right near where they attach to the transmission.

You can get the shifter to feel nice though. Mine has that "bolt action rifle" feel. It was horrendously sloppy with the stock rubber bushings and shifter. I went with all solid shifter and base bushings, along with with a JTC Customs short shifter. I also did the "zip tie mod" which is where you zip tie both cables together every 2" or so for the length of the cables. It keeps them from flexing and helps with feel quite a bit. All of that made a world of difference when it came to shifter feel and engagement. Felt like driving a different car at first.

You will be fine with the H trans though. Sounds like that's what you need for clearance issues anyway.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

Go with a H2B setup and be done with. Heard good things about it. Price for the adapter kits is the only thing I don't like.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

The "H" trans weighs about 15 pounds more than a "B" series trans... aftermarket support is lower... the gear ratios in the USDM H22 VTEC transmissions are very similar to a '94-01 GSR trans except for the final drive (4.266 vs. 4.400). The difference between shift rod and shift cable feel is personal preference, especially now since there are bolt in shifters from companies like Hybrid Racing available. ALL modern (post 2002) manual transmissions are cable shifted and people RAVE about their feel, so this idea that cable actuated transmissions shift poorly is just crap.

Install a MFactory 4.64 final drive into the "H" transmission and it functions like a USDM ITR... simple install, off the shelf flywheels, cheaper mounts, better axle geometry, no piece-meal engine swap, and likely the same weight when you factor in the additional weight of the bell-housing adapter plate and the midshaft adapter bracket.

Re: Why B over H trans? Is H trans really that bad?? Please help need to start swap.
 

Go with the H series tranny. In your situation, it just makes sense all around. Can swap out the final drive if the gearing is not what you want like JR said.

Also there are aftermarket cable options that are stronger and will hold up to aggressive driving, such as the K-tuned race spec cables.