Jake Spitzer

Hey guys this is my first post.
I've gotten to that point were I'm kinda stuck on what to do next to get more power for my buck in my eg hatch.
What should i do next? I've been looking into porting and a good tune, bigger fuel injectors but besides that what would be the best thing to go for next?
I do plan on setting up for boost around 8 psi or so.
this what i have done overall;
I have no idea what the connecting rods , pistons or springs are.
All seals and gaskets are new.

Engine/Bay: -LsVtec-
-LS Trannsmission
-B18b lower block
-Vtec conversion
-ITR B18C5 upper head
-ITR Intake Manifold
-ARP Head Studs


Performance:
-Skunk2 Pro Full Cam Gear Set up
-NGK Platinum spark plugs
-NGK spark plug wires set
-SD Dual Core Radiator
-Mugen Complete raidiator tube Set
-Hytech Tri Y Headers
-Ls Spyder Air Intake
-2.5" No Name Exhaust system
-Skunk2 Muffler

Interior:
-NRG Quick Release and Hub
-NRG Steering Wheel
-Password JDM: Shiftboot
-SickSpeed Purple Weighted Shift ****
-Short Shifter


Exterior:
-12000k HID Lights
-JDM Amber Corner Lights
-Carbon Fiber Hood
-Carbon Fiber Type R Lip
-Carbon Fiber Spoon Mirrors
-Carbon Fiber Duck Bill
-JDM Thin Side Moldings
-Blacked Out Tail Lights


Suspension/Brakes:
-No Name coilovers
-Blox Rear Control Arms
-Asr Rear Subframe Brace
-Asr 24mm Sway Bar
-Si Rear Disk Brake Conversion

Wheels:
-15" Konig Starlites
-Kuhmo tires 195/
-BWR Purple Light Weight Aluminium Lugs

jbpnoman

8 PSI means absolutely nothing. Not a damn thing. 8 PSI through, say, a GT06 will net you next to zero power. That same 8 PSI through, say, a GT6041, will take your rods and make them into cooked spaghetti. You're on the right train of thought with boost, though, you just have a LOT more research to do before you start buying parts. GT28RS and 19T are some keywords you should start looking into. With one of those turbos, you can comfortably and safely break into the 250whp range. Swap out your rods and pistons with some forged pieces, and you can get the 300-350whp range with a competent tune on those same turbos (although the 19T will start crying tears of aluminum).

If you're just looking to go fast for the sake of going fast, just boost it and forget it. If you're looking to go faster around a road course or autocross course, spend money on a real suspension, some better wheels and correctly sized tires, and some driving classes. Those three things in combination will be cheaper than a proper turbo build, and will cut more time off your laps than just slapping a snail on.

Jake Spitzer

well im not looking at boost yet just as the ending picture which is why i havent done hardley any research on it yet. Im just looking at all the other stuff to build up my engine to eventually get there you know?

jbpnoman

So get rid of the LS transmission and get something that doesn't have gear ratios longer than the equator. Best choice without buying a custom transmission would be to get an SI transmission, and pull the 5th gear cluster out of your LS and slap that in the SI, so you can still get good highway mileage. The C5 head is already factory ported, so porting it out even more wouldn't net you much in gains without a good tune, and even then you would have to go to someone with a history of doing good work to weld and flow your runners. Bigger injectors won't make you go faster unless you're already maxing them out, which you aren't*.

If you're building towards the eventuality of boost, get some forged rods and pistons. Slap those in, and replace your bearings, gaskets, and piston rings while you're down there. If you're working on a budget, Eagle rods and Supertech pistons are both affordable, and high quality. Keep your CR in the 9.5:1 to 10:1 range. If you don't actually plan on boosting and you're just saying it for the sake of saying it, go with 11:1-12:1, get your head worked over, toss in some 1mm oversized valves, toss in some meaty cams, and make halfway decent power on pump gas. Pay attention to the alloy of the pistons you buy, and how it affects your P2W clearances. You can start eyeballing valvetrain work, too. Once again, Supertech makes great **** for your valvetrain, and there are a number of good companies out there for cams - I'm personally a fan of Crower, or TODA if you're feeling particularly rich. It's worth mentioning, though, that if you spend retail on all of your required bottom end parts OR all of your valvetrain parts, that money could have bought you a DIY turbo setup, which would net you more power.

Some people prefer to build first, turbo later. Some prefer to boost first, build later and turn up the wastegate then. I'm a fan of the later, but that's all it is - personal preference.

J-RAD

Get rid of the LS trans! B16 trans would be better. If possible find a type-r one. Only good thing is that if you could keep the fifth gear from the ls and put it in one if these transmission s. This would help u retain highway gas mileage at 65mph and not leave u screaming at 4500 rpm like the b16 trans 5th gear lol. Also look into an LSD

jbpnoman

Is there an echo in here? I hear an echo.

Jake Spitzer

See thats the kinda of stuff i dont know to much about , ill have to do some research into that but the engine itself was built completely to be for speed i just didnt have the luxury of knowing the parts inside it when i bought it and swapped it in. I wanna do stuff right to keep this car and not blow it up so the turbo is not even a big deal until I have stuff to handle it money isnt an issue either because im in it for the long run and its not my dd.
i wanna make sure what i get will be able to handle the turbo when i get it. but anyways what stuff actually cause different compression ratios and how do you keep it in the 9.5:1 to 10:1 range

Jake Spitzer

to be honest im not actually sure what the transmission is i just assumed it was ls because the block is a b18b. is there a code somewhere to check?

jbpnoman

Assuming you keep stock rod length (hint: you should), pistons are the main thing that'll affect static compression ratios, with valve selection playing a VERY small hand as well. Most good piston manufacturers will tell you what CR their pistons will give you with your motor setup on their stat sheet, but if not, you can easily find a compression calculator online, punch in the numbers, and figure it out for yourself. On a B series motor, 9:1-10:1 is safe for boost, 12:1 is the rough maximum on pump gas, and 10:1-11:1 is basically riding the fence and letting a fence post **** you up the *** with your own indecision.

Stock compression on a JDM LS motor is 9.4:1. Assuming your head and block weren't milled, and you're running an OEM 3 layer head gasket, you should be around 10:1 currently. If you plan on getting some proper forged pistons for boost, you should be dropping your static CR a hair, which will make you lose power until you boost it, which is one of the reasons I say boost now, forge later.

Yes, there is a code stamped on your transmission. You can find more information on those codes here.

Jake Spitzer

ok so i do have a b16 trans btw i checked the codes

jbpnoman

So go with one of the four other options I gave you. Boost, forge, valvetrain, or wheels/tires/suspension. Just remember that the forge will drop your static CR and give you LESS power until you boost.

Jake Spitzer

but cant boosting without proper forge blow your engine?

jbpnoman

Only if you have a mouth breather tune your car. I've boosted dozens of completely stock Honda motors with absolutely zero problems.

Jake Spitzer

ok can you send me a link of a listing of all the parts i need because ill prob buy them one by one

jbpnoman

It's your car, not mine - you need to pick what you want to put into it. I've already given you some good names and options to look into. Actually, the names and options I gave you are exactly what's going in the LS I'm building right now, and that motor is being made for 350WHP.

Jake Spitzer

no i meant like a link to somewhere that says what i need to put together a complete turbo not brands. Ive already saved the list of internals you mentioned. Im just not sure what all i need for a turbo kit

jbpnoman

Oh, that's easy. Manifold, turbo, downpipe, oil feed and return lines (multiple ways to do this), intercooler, intercooler piping, and at BARE minimum a wideband O2 gauge. You should also consider a boost gauge, turbo timer, electronic boost controller, and, if you plan on doing any competitive racing, an oil temperature gauge. For any turbo build, you need properly sized injectors (use this calcluator, a tuning option. Talk to your local tuner and find out what s/he prefers to use, and go with that. ECU tuning is one of the rare few things that what people online say means absolutely NOTHING. Each tuner will do their best work with something different.

Jake Spitzer

ok cool i appreciate all the info.
Wait do you mean getting your ecu tuned doesnt matter?

jbpnoman

Oh it definitely DOES matter, it just doesn't matter what software/hardware you use to do it. Your tuner will know best. When I tune, I use Chrome, an Ostrich until I get the tune down, then I burn the emulated tune onto a chip and plug it in. When MY tuner tunes, he prefers Neptune. I know another guy who doesn't touch Neptune, and loves AEM. I tried tuning on AEM once - it came out like ****. They're all totally different, and it completely depends on what your tuner feels comfortable with. If they say Neptune, buy Neptune. If they say AEM, buy AEM. If they say Motec, buy Motec. Let them make the decision on what ECU tuning you use.

Jake Spitzer

Ok so speedfactory is really big where i live they hold the world record fastest civic for b18 and d16

http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/tuning/

they have these to choose from
Neptune RTP
Neptune EEPROM(Authorized Neptune Dealer/Tuner)
Crome
Hondata S300
Hondata K-Pro
Hondata Flashpro
AEM V2

which one would you choose?

jbpnoman

I'd call them and ask, but just looking at their site, I'm guessing they prefer Neptune, and Hondata for K swaps. Chrome is a free tuning program (which is why I use it for my street tunes), but with them putting your car on a dyno, you can definitely do better.

I'm about to go pass out, but if you have any more questions, check out the FAQ stickies, especially in the Forced Induction forum. If you have any questions that aren't answered there, feel free to ask, and if no one gets to you, I'll probably be back on tonight. Tomorrow night. Whatever, less than 24 hours.

Jake Spitzer

Hey man i appreciate all the help!

JDMAF

Go to google search for SC14 Honda... It's an interesting cheaper setup that has my attention right now... 18psi worth of supercharger for less then 1000 bucks... plus the cost of your choice of tuning device... on a stock block guys are running the stock pulleys and gaining about 60hp on just 8psi of boost using a wastegate to bring down the boost....