Jsarv

I've posted something similar to this before, but here goes again.

Have a 94 civic Coupe With an h22 and m2b4 LSD transmission.

Hasport mounts
Hasport Axles.

Under acceleration there is a very definate vibration/wobble that seems to follow the the engine speed, and then goes away.

Not only that the car does not feel much quicker than the b16a that was in it prior.

Almost feels like the brakes are dragging, but they are not.


Here is what we have done:

Checked cam timing.
Checked all clearances including axle clearances, and they don't seem to be binding.

Check compression, checked BS belt phasing.

Engine seems to run good, but feels like something is holding it back, and there is a distinct wobble between 2k-3.5k rpms.
I DONT THINK it is a lack of power, but would binding axles cause these symptoms? Could it be the transmission?

Have been in contact with Brian at Hasport trying to figure it out, but we have got no where.

Also running all sensors and a JDM p13 ecu with NO Cel.

Car is dropped 1.5"

Someone please help us troubleshoot this!!!

TIA
Jerod

Jsarv

So no one has ever had any problems like this with an H in an EG...

Hard to believe.

SixguN

What you have described sounded very similiar to my car. I have the same setup, but mine is in a coupe with a 1.2 drop. My car would shake bad when I was under accelleration while slighty turning one way, the other way it would not shake. It was my axles. I replaced them and everything was fine. Try turning one way or the other while under acceleration. See if there is a difference in vibration. Also, try and rev the motor at a stand still, does it shake? And what were your comp results?

Chem Geek

I had the same problem, HASport sent me a new axle, and that fixed the problem for me. :thumpup:

sohctodohc

Nothing while turning and accelerating. Nothing while sitting still, whether in neautral (clutched or not).

But in a straight line yes, can be seen through the steering wheel, felt in the seats and seen in the dash.


But which side is it?! Brian at Hasport had us pull the axle nut, put the wheel back on and drop the car back down and measure how far the axle would go back into the hub (to measure clearance) it came within .240" of sitting flush with the outside of the hub, which is withing specs according to Brian....

That was the passenger side only, which seems to be the direction in which the vibrations are coming from.


Which axle needs to be replaced?? Should we raise the car back up? AH I hate this car!

sohctodohc

It does it while turning left, as well as accelerating in a straight line.

Drivers axle!?

chad

Could be that you have bad wheel bearings.

sohctodohc

wheel bearings have been replaced within a year ago.

ok so i could barely smoke my buddys d16z6 civic and all it has done is msd ignition i\h\e.


compression check was done and from waterpump side it went 240-245-240-245....

i drove the **** out of it pulled it back into my garage shot the axel boots with one of the temperture laser guns. and the hottest boot was on the passenger side next to the brakes coming in at 125 degrees.

the only cel im throwing is 12 which is egr.

i did have a surging idle cleaned the iac and that took care of that.

basically the car right now is comparable to my old b16a i had swapped in.

it runs fine timing is on but the is just no power there. what the hell is the problem?? is this all the mighty h22 has to offer??

also the coil has been replaced. and the icm is good.

we have all the sensors for the egr hooked up but it still throws the code???


Here is a video for comparison:
acceleration of h22
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz4DVR0rY2I
acceleration of b16a
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAbt1VWJDms

as you can see not much of a difference in acceleration


bad videos but had to drive and film at the same time


Modified by sohctodohc at 5:49 PM 4/6/2008

Turbogixxer

What was the temp of the half-shaft bearing?

Is the Cam timing good?

sohctodohc

the cam timing is dead on. heres something. i pulled my cap and was looking at my rotor the contact patch on the rotor is charred about half way through it but isnt nearly charred the second half. so is the spark not lasting as long as it should?

what controls the duration of the spark? the icm?

poison

Doesn't sound to me like a engine/tranny problem. It's a power to the ground problem.

Ensure your wheels free spin with car up in the air. Make sure there is no brake/rotor binding. Check your wheel bearing/tie rods by wiggling wheels top/botton and side/side.

i would even check and start the engine while car is on jack stands. and spin the wheels very slow in 1st gear.

If all is good, it sounds to me like axles. The axles may be good, but they are not good for your car. I would go with a set of DSS axles personally. I've seen this problem for a lot of people.

That's my $.2.

Good luck!

sohctodohc

Well tonight was an interesting night. Spoke with Brian again and performed this tonight.

Switched back to the P30 (JDM B16) Map Sensor.

Tried a different ICM, definitely go stock with ICM, aftermarket SUCKS.
Put the stock ICM back in, checked plugs..... .028-.030 gap... Not .044 like is called for.

Regapped the plugs, checked cam timing again, spot on. Half *** checked ignition timing, by using the 15 degree mark and checking the location of the rotor opposed to the cap, REAL close so I the gun is working well.

Reset the ECU and started the car, BOOM! Alternator light, 11.6 volts... Drove it to see if it was just a fluke, DEFINITELY not a fluke, alternator quit working...

So until it gets rebuilt tom. I have nothing

After driving today, things I noticed.

In 2-5 (1st, but not nearly as noticeable)... While on flat ground and steady throttle from 2k on it feels like the complete oposite of a surge, like someone just nudged the brakes, and it in rhythm, the higher the rpm, the rhythm changed, at times went away and at times came back all the way till 7k... Haha Poor H, this was at 15-20% throttle. But got to do whatcha got to do. If anyone has rode sport bikes before, I would compare this feeling slightly to having a loose chain!!! (hope that helps)

When under heavy acceleration it feels more like a shudder than a vibration.

The backfiring/popping was less noticeable after the plugs were gapped right.

Btw, the plugs not being gapped is a long story, and someone is getting an *** chewing over it.

Another strange thing, coming to a stoplight, at a full stop it takes FOREVER for the idle to come down to 750. It hovers around 1000 for quite a while and finally comes down. The idle was set 3 different times, once having to be raised because when it finally came down it was at like 200. Btw, both FITV and IAC have been THOROUGHLY cleaned, IAC twice now. Honda revs for a bit, and cleaned it again and readjusted the idle and they are gone, but still has the strange hovering idle symptoms.

Last but not least, do M2B4's have a little whine to them in 1st and 2nd?
And when doing a Manual tensioner conversion, since the damn T Belt is SO tight, is a slight whining noise from the T belt normal!?

Water pump, all tensioner were replaced.

Oil pressure is great.

Could a failing alternator cause some of our symptoms?! It does spin freely off of the car. But is VERY weak, and I really don't know how longs it has been weak for. Yesterday I had good solid 12.5V readings with the car not running.

We did jack the car up and spin the wheels, both spun the same way and with little resistance. We replaced the Trans oil with Honda MTF for the second time in less than 200 miles. There was no noticeable axle oscillation while spinning the wheels on jack stands. BTW, the jack stands were under the control arms to simulate suspension load.

IF ANYONE has any Ideas PLEASE throw it out there. I have Brian at Hasport scratching his head, but I have faith he will help us get this figured out.

Already had Hasport Stage 1 Axles, don't feel like spending all that extra money on DSS axles, when Hasport will fix mine if needed.

And btw, this is Jerod, Cody's older brother. I did the swap and all the electrical and have been trouble shooting the hell out of everything.

If anyone has any advice I'm open to about anything, including a Spring time weeny roast, courtesy of a Burning 94 H22 EX!

Anyone know the base resistance of a Engine Coolant temp sensor?! Anyone know the base resistance of the knock sensor!? If I knew that I would wire in a resister to ensure that the knock sensor wasn't the issue and could rule that out.

Only CEL tonight was 12, EGR Lift. And randomly at that.

sohctodohc

UPDATE

so the alternator got rebuilt today...it cost 101 dollars! i was pissed ask the guy what the deal was, he said about the only thing that was good in it was the bearings. thats it.

so we got it put back on it is charging at a healthy 14volts. so i let it warm up drive it for a bit, and the vibrations are as bad as ever. the acceleration of it is a little bit better.

for comparison, my bro has a 02 wrx stage 2, with 3inch downpipe, exhaust, uppipe, i think he is pushing about 18lbs of boost(give or take a pound), and from a 60-100 i think he was at my door or rear fender.

from a 30 or 40 roll on i might have put a car on him at most. i wouldn't say im beating him as much as im barely holding him off. personally i think there is more in it than that.

i took off in first from a stop light and took it all the way through first and had traction all the way through. i have 14inch del sol rims with all season tires on there to me that doesn't sound right.

if the axles are binding up could it cause that much of a drag?

thanks again everyone!!

Turbogixxer

You have having idle prolems too? Check the ECU. Throw a chipped ECU in there.

sohctodohc

no it seems like i have got the idle down about right i might adjust it a little more. if i adjust it to1000rpms it will start surging to 1500 and bck down (the honda revs). tomorrow we are gonna put the p30 on it for a couple minutes see if it acts any different. but i have been saving my p30 for hondata s300. (but just dont have the funds for it).

so thats where im at for the night.

if anyone would be down with lending me a p28 or p72 chipped for h22a that would be killer. i could probably work something out with ya.

and is there really a way to check the ecu???