AzN_Flava

What i mean is that You do all the possilbe stuff u can at home.. and the other stuff like the drilling of the 2 dowel pin holes on the oposite side of the VTEC head let a shop do it...

Reason i ask is... if i paid for someone to do it... its more expensive(unless i screw up) and its different.. oooh i have ls/vtec but i paid some guy a grand to do it... while the other guy goes.;.. i did all i can do at home.. and had help... i mean being a real enthusiast about working on the car. not someone who has all the cash to buy everyhting and buy it.. and go.. i put as much heart into my car as u did..

dunno if im making any sense... but i've done a bit of riding up on the ls/vtec.. and i was wondering anyone do this by themselves?

wut are your opinions... criticize me but b gentle k?

CRX_VTEC

I'm doing my own LS/VTEC. I'm building it from the bottom up with the only work being done by an outside shop is sending the block to have the pistons pressed and bored my rods to fit the oversized pistons. I assemble and balance the crank and do my own port and polish. I'll do the install as well. I got hook up on all the parts too which helps alot. My friends set up is simular to mine and he spent close to 6K....I will come to about 3K. The only difference is he has his in his car already..... my motor is still on an engine stand. I have no idea when I'll be finished. But here are a few pics.....
http://hometown.aol.com/slapusilly24...age/index.html


[Modified by CRX_VTEC, 1:26 PM 7/11/2001]

I2secRex

It's cake. Take your shortblock to a machine shop to be assembled and balanced. When you get it back (probably a few weeks) you drill the holes in your head/block yourself. All you're doing is widening the factory dowel pin holes on the exhaust side (on block) or the intake side (on head). It's not hard. Plug up that one oil passage on the distributor side, nothing but a quick tap and then thread in the plug. Then run your stainless lines and assemble it like you would a stock B16.

All told, it shouldn't take but a couple hours above and beyond the time a normal motor swap takes.

-Kevin

92Si

I put a whole new meaning to building a motor "AT HOME".

92Si

One more for all you picture fiends out there.



I used to hide these pictures, but I swear there are going to be more LS/VTECs on the road than GSR's one of these days! It's not the motor that you build, but who builds the motor!

AzN_Flava

So from what i understand is... the machining of the head.. and the pistons and wutever... i should bring it to a shop to do it.. and the rest of the stuff.. after that should b no problem at home... because i saw a vtec oil line kit at http://www.crxguru.com and well they suggest the same stuff too.. like the dowel holes should b done some at a shop... but the assmbly of it.. seems like something i can do then...

wut are the problems that usually occur when build a ls/vtec? so i can avoid them... thanx for all the feedback guyz... its just not the same having to pay for ls/vtec versus... building your own...

92Si

Just get yourself a good service manual or someone who has built a block before and you'll be fine. Save a few extra bucks, because there are always extra parts. Remember that timing belt goes along with water pump, get new bearings, ARP rod bolts if you use stock rods. Those Moroso piston installers are sweet too.

GZR4DR

If done right, it runs flawlessly. If done wrong, your going to leak oil everywhere, and run the risk of having your engine run without oil and fry some bearings, or worse. We charge $1200 and it includes head, ITR oil pump, steel braid line, and chipped ecu. Check the sig if interested. If you can do it yourself, save a few bucks. If you have never done it, i recommend spending a little more and getting it done right the first time. Its much more in the long run if you have to redo it. And i wouldnt trust a machine shop to assemble my motor. Only to do the machine work I.E. honing, pressing in pistons, etc.

BTW you DO NOT drill the block for the dowel pins. Only the head. Check the sig if interested. I actually have a B20/vtec in my daily driven teg, and i love it. Nice with lots of torque, and has never given me any problems at all. Just like factory.



[Modified by GZR4DR, 3:07 AM 7/13/2001]

AzN_Flava

TO: GZR4DR

hehe thanx for that.. i've heard lotsa ppl drill the dowelpins wider... but i guess its only the head then.. ummm i gotta do more reading still hehe

well the thing is.. its not really the price(well if it was dirt cheap of course i'd pay someone to do it...)
but its the satisfaction u get from accomplishing this...

i'm a do-it-yourself person but of course i will realize when i need help, basically what im saying is... its the feeling u get when u kno u did something on ur own... its like wining the lottery vs a poor man who succeeds in life and is rich later on wards...

well... if u understand what im getn at... would u b kind enough to help me along the way of building my ls/vtec? as in questions and stuff? hehe...
if not.. im sure lotsa ppl on htis site will... but good help is hard to find though hehe...

thanx... i kno this is a hard project... but something i would really want to do... i love working on cars... thanx man...

help would b great... because i plan to turbo this thing later later later on vtec is nice.. but there is soemthing about BOV that makes me go SHIET!!! eheh

GZR4DR

Well just a little advice, get the ITR oil pump, dont use the factory LS one. Use the Ls headgasket, and the Ls timing belt. Thats about all the advice i can think of. Expect to still spend a pretty penny though. Remember you need the vtec head with the intake manifold and all the sensors with it, you need to wire the vtec, you need a vtec ecu, and you need to buy the steel braid line, new headgasket, and perhaps intake manifold gasket. In parts alone expect to spend around $300-$350 for the head, $250 for the ecu, $150 for the oil pump, $120 for the steel braid line, $60 for the head gasket, and an extra $100-$200 for miscaneous parts. And around $100 to wire the vtec unless you know how to do it yourself.

Have fun and good luck.

Thats why most people think are prices are good. We get discounts on the parts that most people cant get, which we pass most of it the discount on to the consumer, and we dont rape people on the labor.

If you have any technical questions go ahead and ask.


[Modified by GZR4DR, 1:45 PM 7/13/2001]

prjctCIVIC

to gzr4dr:

your crvtec is it a stock bottom end with a vtec head? and how much should i expect to pay for one? thanks

GZR4DR

Well depending where you get the CRV, the shortblock can range between 800-1000, adding 200 if you want the longblock. Then 1200 for the conversion. Plus you still need trans, axles, mounts, and all the miscalleneous parts associated with it.

I unfortunately dont have the best deals on CRV motors. I saw one guy saying he could get them for like $600 for the shortblock. But i dont trust paying for parts out of the US.

With the CRV you dont need to upgrade the fuel pump with the CRV block. It already has the high flow pump. I recommend saving up, and getting the bigger motor. You will be happoer in the long run.

My motor is a B20 block, GSR head, GSR trans, ITR clutch, and GSR ecu. Its completely bone stock. I take it to 8K on occasion, but mostly around 7K when i get on it. This is my daily driver, so all the go fast mods are on my civic.

Which if any one is interested the motor is almost done. Can we say 230whp minimum is expected. Dont ask the mods, because i wont say. But it is a GSR block and a GSR head. Plus some custom headers that are supposed to be better than Hitech and SMS. I say supposed to be until i finish dynoing it anyways. Thats all i will say. I'll post pics and dyno numbers when i'm done.

Big James

You own/work at a shop, but yet you will not let potential customers know what you have done to your own car to make it run so well? No offense, but that is kinda wrong if you ask me. It sends out the notion that you don't want your cutomers car to be as good as yours. If that is not you intention, then I apologize for sounding like a dick.

BTW, from what I understand their is a company out in Cali that makes a kit that does not requiring any drilling or tapping. I know people who have used some of the products from this company (cable to hydraulic tranny convertor) and they seem very reputable. Anyone else hear of it?


[Modified by Big James, 8:11 AM 7/14/2001]

ToqureinTuner

alittle off-topic but do you guys sell itr fuel pumps if so.. how much?

later..

GZR4DR

Well i wont say all of the little trick mods to make the most power because i'm trying to compete with the car. You dont see Skunk saying what they have done to there car. Most of the mods i dont mind telling, but piston size, stroke, and other things that the average Joe street racer will never be doing, i'm going to keep to myself. If your interested in what works for a street car check out my homepage in my sig. All of those mods i have no problem stating. JDM 4-1 headers, ITR manifold, FPR, upgraded Prospeed Mugen P-28 ecu. All of this things most people already know. And most i will use on my race car. But when your competing your trying to win, and you need every advantage you can get. If your seriously interested in building a race motor, then i have no problems telling people what works and what doesnt. If you want to make around 200whp, i could tell you exactly what you need to know how to do that. For anything signifigantly more, then it requires block modifications, and thats where the secret stuff comes into play which most people on there street cars will never do. But like i said, if your serious about making power, then i can help you out. Unfortunately when you get that serious, parts are not cheap.

Like i said, the headers that i am going to run are sweet. I will post pics of them and also have a dyno sheet of them vs. JDM ITR 4-1 back to back for a comparison. If they do well, then they will be available to buy. If not, i dont want to sell a product that does not work. But so far the cars we have tried them on make lots of power. One car made 8 hp over one of the big name race headers on this board. I wont say which, because it was not one of our cars, and the test was not performed back to back vs the other header. So its kinda an invalid comparison due to the time differences between dynos. But you get the idea that it makes lots of power.

As for Ls/vtec not having to drill, i'm not sure about that. Its not that hard anyways. You just need a drill press, and then your done. Everything else is pretty much plug and play. Just use dowels, tap it correctly and you will be fine. There are websites online that show what is involved in the conversion.

As for the price on an ITR fuel pump i will let you know on Monday. Its not a regular item we sell, so i dont know the price off the top of my head and the distributor is closed until Monday. But i will let you know. Or email me if you want.

CRX_VTEC

GZR4DR= Glad to see your working on header comparisons. I've been looking for a nice header for a long long time. Seems most headers are either mass market $250-400 with a little performance (DC Greddy) or high end and cost more then I'm willing to pay for a header $700-1000 (Spoon Mugen) Is there nohing in between like around $500-600? Nothing on my engine cost that much!! Let me know when you ge those dynos... While I continue to look for a header.
http://hometown.aol.com/slapusilly24...age/index.html

GZR4DR

If you want a cheaper header, with good performance get either the JDM ITR 4-1, or get the JDM DC 4-1. Both have 2.5 inch collectors. Race header unfortunately cost a bit more because they are hand made, and are for custom applications. Plus they use more expensive materials. The power i made in my sig was with JDM ITR 4-1 header.

92Si

There geometry and clearances in the head are not an issue. As with any motor, if you use huge cams and high compression pistsons, and do not do the math for the clearances you will have problems.

Rich

GZR4DR

Hey AkumaY,
Your name wouldnt be Andy would it? Anyways, the head wont make a difference in clearance issues, it will only make a difference in the amount of compression you have.