iliv2xlr8

Hello all,

I am new to the Honda world, but I am not new to cars or swaps. I have done some research and found some good information but I am still a little foggy. So I have a 93 DX hatch and I will be swapping in a JDM B18C with a Jackson Racing Supercharger. I am still collecting for the swap and I am almost ready to buy the engine. I am getting a chipped P28 from Xenocron with a base map. I will drive up to north NJ and get it tuned once I get it all together.

I know that my chassis harness doesn't have Vtec. So, from what I have read I have to wire up Vtec, knock sensor, and iatb in the chassis wiring harness running from the ECU to the shock tower.

I am going to try to get an OBDI engine when I buy one from HMotors. However, there is no garauntee that I will get OBDI. I may get OBDII, it just depends on what they have when I purchase.

Where I am stumped it which engine harness to use. I am getting a JDM engine so the plug will be on the wrong side to use that harness.

Should I use my civic harness and just run the new wires I will need from the sensors all the way to the ECU?

Should I buy a different engine harness?

Should I shoot for OBDI because of the alternator?

I know you all have done these swaps a good bit. Everything else is straight forward. I just want to go the easiest and most straight forward route when I wire everything up.

Thanks in advance.

94EG8

yes, I assume by iatb you meant IAB (secondary butterflies)

I'd call them and tell them what I wanted, see what they can do, I fogure worst case you might have to wait a little longer to get an OBD1 engine.

That depends on what engine you get, if its OBD1 unless you can score an OBD1 GS-R (ideal) or '92 - '95 EX/Si harness pretty cheap or your current harness is a mess i'd just keep the stock harness. If its an OBD2 GS-R get an OBD2 GS-R or ITR harness, even an LS/GS/RS harness is better than nothing. Heres why, OBD2 engines use different alternator, disributor and fuel injector plugs than the OBD1 versions, OBD2 integra engine harnesses obviously plug into the OBD2 engine components, what a lot of people don't know is that they also are a direct plug in at the shock tower plugs on the civic.


The best way to do that swap IMO is the following:
strip the vtec wiring from the JDM harness, add it into your harness, sometimes the pins that go into the shock tower are cut off, if so you'll have to salvage a couple and solder them on. If the vtec wiring isn't cut it will be too long, cut a piece out of the middle and splice it back together with solder and shrink tubing, remove the loom from your stock harness, add vtec wiring, re-loom and tape. For the portion of the vtec wiring that goes from the shock tower plugs go to a junkyard, find a '92 civic, and remove the 2 vtec wires, integrate them into your harness. Plug the purge solenoid connector into the IAB solenoid and move pin A20 to A17 for functioning IABs without having to run new wires. Add the knock sensor wiring back to the ECU. Alternatively chip the P72 and disable the knock sensor.

iliv2xlr8

I see. So if I get a OBDI B18C then I will be better off using my Civic harness, and integrating the wires I need. If I get OBDII, then I will have to get a USDM GSR harness and run that engine harness to my Civic tower harness and run the wires I need.

Thanks for the help.

When you said I am a little confused. I am going to be using a chipped P28 from Xenocron. This is what they recommended. Do I still need to wire the knock sensor or does chipping it remove it from the ecu programming?

94EG8

Sorry, I missed that part. A P28 wont look for a knock sensor regardless, You also don't have to wire your IABs as the P28 doesn't have the circuitry to operate them. A lot of guys either make sure they stay open at all times or use a skunk2 aftermarket intake manifold.

Heres a few pictures showing an OBD2 ITR engine in a '92 CX chassis using a '98 ITR harness. It should illustrate my point about using an OBD2 harness in an OBD1 car, credit for pics goes to B18C5-EH2

iliv2xlr8

Sweet! Thanks man. I also won't have to worry about the IAB because of the Jackson Racing Supercharger. I have been doing some more digging and have found a little more info.

As far as the knock sensor, EVAP silinoid and Vtec pressure switch.

I read that JDM B18C's don't have knock sensors.
I read that JDM B18C's don't have EVAP silinoids.
I read that JDM B18C's don't have a Vtec pressure switch.

At least, this applies to OBDI JDM B18C's. I am not sure about OBDII...?

I emailed Xenocron about this, as far as the chipped P28 and throwing codes. Could the chipped ECU be setup to eliminate anything that isn't needed? You said that the P28 doesn't have a knock. I am not sure about the EVAP and Vtec pressure switch.

If I don't need them, the only thing I would have to wire is the Vtec silinoid........If that is the case it will be extremely easy whether I go OBDI or II....

What's your opinion?

94EG8

They do actually. All B-series Vtec engines have knock sensors.

Thats likely true, I can't recall specifically if the GS-R does or not, but I can tell you for a fact from personal expirence that JDM OBD1 B16As, D15B Vtecs, SOHC and DOHC ZCs all do not have a purge solenoid, in most cases you can clearly see where it would have gone on the intake manifold but the holes wont be drilled for it.

*ALL* OBD1 vtec engines have a vtec pressure switch, OBD2 JDM B-series engines do not have a vtec pressure switch, all USDM OBD2 engines have the pressure switch,

My opinion with info you've provided is that honestly its really not going to make a whole lot of difference either way if you go OBD1 or OBD2 so long as if you go OBD2 you get a '96 - '01 integra harness (on the '00 - '01 harnesses you need to add 1 wire in the engine harness for a tach signal, just a heads up, get a '96 - '99 harness if you can) Basically all you will need to wire is the vtec solenoid and pressure switch.

Edit:

I forgot to add *if* you reuse the stock civic harness, or an EX/Si harness, you will need to lengthen wires in some cases so the connectors will reach their respective sensors. The IAT sensor for example.

iliv2xlr8

Thanks for all your help. I think when I am done with this swap I am going to do a full write-up. Its true, the information is out there but it would be great for the community to have a complete guide.

Thanks again.

94EG8

Your welcome

H-T appriciates your efforts, i've been meaning to do serveral write ups and even started a couple, but it takes time.

Theres everything you wanted to know about honda's and more out there, the problem is being able to find the info when you need it. H-T appriciates your efforts, i'm sure a lot of people would appriciate a good guide. I know I certainly would.

iliv2xlr8

^ For real.

Another quick question about the mounts. I have been told that I will need to use all the Integra mounts on my brackets. My car is currently an auto and it will be switched to a manual with the new swap. I know Innovatve makes the kit, but what brackets and mounts will I need specifically for my case?

Also read about the A/C bracket. Something like, I needed to use a Vtec Del Sol bracket. I am definately confused about this. My plan was to use the JDM compressor that came with the swap and just hookup my lines. If the lines were diffeent, I would just get adapters. Is the AC bracket for any othere reason then the compressor? Is it a fitment issue?

Thanks again. I'm going to have to buy you lunch.....

94EG8

You will need one of the following 2 combinations of mount/bracket for the drivers side (timing belt) mount:
-integra mount, plus integra post bracket that bolts to the block
or
-civic mount, plus civic post bracket that bolts to the block. The integra unit should be stonger. Use it if it its available to you.

For the rear mount/bracket. Reuse the civic rubber mount and use a '94 - '01 5 speed integra T bracket.

For the top transmission mount use the innovative or hasport conversion mount, it doesn't matter if it says D or B-series, in either case the mount is identical. Alternatively you can cut off the automatic pocket mount thats welded the frame rail and weld on the manual version and use any '92 - '95 5 speed civic or '94 - '01 5 speed integra upper transmission mount.

For the lower transmission torque mount and bracket: Use the metal bracket from any '94 - '01 5 speed integra, Del Sol Vtec or '99 - '00 civic Si. Reuse the original civic rubber mount.

Most guys use the '94 - '97 Del Sol Vtec bracket as it allows you to reuse the D-series A/C compressor and not have to make any custom lines. If making custom lines doesn't bother you then you can use the integra bracket and A/C compressor. Again reuse the civic rubber mount that bolts to the bottom of the frame rail.

Again, you're welcome. And good luck on your swap. Auto to manual isn't bad at all btw, i've done it a couple of times before.

iliv2xlr8

Sounds good. Thanks a bunch!


I guess I will liven up the thread and show everyone what I am working with....:D
I am still collecting for the engine swap, but the suspension will be going in next month! My Eibach sway bars are on back order. I have a ton of parts that arn't in the pictures..... Goodridge SS lines, Hawk HP pads, Moog balljoints and tie rods.

Should be fun!

94EG8

Hatch looks good. A couple of words of advice though. Don't use that 6th gen civic master cylinder and brake booster, you'll have to bend, reflare and possibly reflare some lines if I remember correctly, use a '91 Civic EX MC, its 15/16 and it bolts up to the stock civic booster and the stock lines perfectly. Also unless you are upgrading the front brakes there is absolutely no reason to change the MC, '92 - '93 Si hatchbacks came stock with 4 wheel discs, they used the smaller CX/DX/VX style front brakes though, and they use the same 13/16 MC as the CX/DX/VX. My final point on brakes is the rear discs quite honestly don't make any noticeable improvement at all, EX or integra front brakes will make a much bigger difference, if upgrading all 4, or just the fronts use a 4040 proportioning valve from a '90 - '93 non abs integra.

The hatch looks clean, really clean, nice color.

iliv2xlr8

Thanks. I do actually have a full GSR brake conversion, I just didn't have pictures of everything to post up. The Master cylinder and booster above is a JDM ITR. My original plan was to use a 15/16 Civic one and not have to modify the lines. However, after comparing the boosters, I felt that it would be a definite upgrade, not to mention the full 1" bore of the MC. There is a nice write-up here on HT how to do it. Being a JDM actually makes it easier due to the ports being inverted and the lines line up well with minimal bending. I have the 40/40 valve from an RS Integra. I also have a nice set of Hawk HP pads, Brembo rotors and Goodridge SS lines going in when I do the swap also. My steering will have all new Moog parts too.

Brakes, steering and suspension were definitely my first thoughts when considering my engine swap. I have built a few high HP Rx7's and I know how important chassis performance can be. I started collecting for that swap about 3 months ago. I now have everything. I just happen to get new upper control arms with the swap I purchased, and I had to buy Integra lowers since my car is a DX and I purchased the Eibach sway bars. I will press in all the new bushings before hand, and the swap should be much quicker. I will hopefully be starting soon.

After reviewing my parts list, I ran into another question.....imagine that...LOL. I will be purchasing my exhaust parts soon, but I wasn't sure about fitment. I definitely want a good free flowing exhaust. After reading and searching, I haven't found any threads about fitment. I do know that most people recommend getting a GSR header, Eg catback, and having a mid-pipe made to meet in the middle. This is my solution:

http://www.omnipowerusa.com/product.asp?P_ID=131

I will be using a GSR Kamikazi header, and a EG civic SRS exhaust.

Do you think it will work?
Would you recommend another route?

LA_HONDAS

or you could use 94-01 integra non-abs brake booster and master cylinder

and you dont need a 1" mc unless your running itr brakes or aftermarket big calibers

iliv2xlr8

Yes, I could have went with a non-abs setup. However, I purchased the ITR unit for $60. These typically sell for over $200 on ebay. I don't even know if I could get a non-abs for that cheap. Though I don't think my hatch will need more braking power, this also gives me expandability if I ever want to get a big brake kit. This setup should be more then enough, even if I autocross.

iliv2xlr8

Started prepping my suspension parts for the swap. I will post pictures soon.

firion_13

Where is the thread that has these pics?