B_CRUZ!

1995 B18C1 in a 1994 CX
3 different P72 ecu's
2 different t/b's with 3 different tps's

damn it! i am getting a cel light for TPS. i dunnno what it could be. i already tried 3 different ecu's, 2 different t/b's. what the hell is going on? i am sick of getting the cel light. has anybody else gone through this before? any help would be appreciated. i am considering in using part of my old harness(CX harness). just the wires from the TPS and run it strait to the ecu. would soldering the wires affect it?

TIA

Kamin

change the wiring harness

B_CRUZ!

yeah... i'll waste next weekend doing that. damn this sucks...

the cel comes on about 10-20 mins of driving. damn that sucks.

not so civic

make sure that you have the plug for the tps where it is supposed to be. if it is try one last time to swap just the tps. or you could check the voltage operation to see that it is functioning correctly...if so, then you need to drill slots in the screws so that you can loosen them and then you'll find that you can rotate the sensor. do this with a voltmeter so you can properly set it. the computer likes to see the correct volts that it's supposed to be set at. good luck.

B_CRUZ!

yeah i swapped out the tps today. honda/acura made it so that you cannot buy the tps sensor. you have to buy the complete throttle body for $600. F_ck HONDA! the screws holding the tps arent regular screws but luckilly my freind knew how to tap it out. i have screws on mines now though.

B_CRUZ!

how can i hook up the voltmeter up while it is connected to the tps?

EE_Chris

Just use something with a point, such as insulation piercing probes (which I guess you don't have) or a pin. OR....you could do what I did and cut off all three wires, splice in a 'connector' of your choice, and solder everything back up. That way, you don't have to pierce anything, and you have a convient way to check the TPS easily. This method, however, does require the use of a solder iron...do not be cheap and crimp them.

**For a connector, I used the boat trailor type of connectors (for the signal lights and such.**

B_CRUZ!

still broken

12 oz.

mine is broken too good luck man

Lei Siew Long

did you reset the ecu by pulling the ecu and backup fuse in the fuse box underneath the hood?

i ran into the same problem. what i did was, i got a set of sewing needles (3) and pierced them through each electrical wire going to the harness of the tps. make sure it goes completely through the wire without completely ripping the rubber insulators.

use a voltmeter, and with the positive probe, probe either the very first or last wire (not the one in the middle), i don't recall which one it is but, in the helms manual it is the positive wire. use the negative probe and ground it to the body of the vehicle. with this done properly, the voltage should be 0.5 volts at completely closed throttle and 4.5 volts at WOT.

if it doesn't read 0.5 volts at closed throttle and 4.5 volts at WOT, rotate the TPS clockwise and probe it again with the voltmeter to see if the voltage output are those readings.

if you haven't slotted the TPS yet, what i did was, i used a dremel with the cutting wheel and made a slot that is wide enough and deep enough so, the screws could be taken out with a flathead. hth


[Modified by boostedeg6, 4:12 PM 6/5/2002]

B_CRUZ!

yes i removed the 7.5 fuse under the hood. and after 10 minutes, i started it up and let it run for 10 mins. without hitting the throttle to let it re-learn itself.
so i do this after i reset the ecu right? the motor should be off right? but the ign. key should be on on?

i removed the old weird screws already and i am now using regular screws...

thanks for the help... i will try this again tonight...





[Modified by B_Cruz, 4:42 PM 6/5/2002]

tinkerbell

so i do this after i reset the ecu right? yep
the motor should be off right? yep
but the ign. key should be on on? you got it!

hth,

t..

Lei Siew Long

you have to pull the ecu and backup fuse for at least 30 mins. after the ecu has been reset, test the voltage with the keys in the ignition (second click). and the engine should be off when resetting the ecu. post up the results. good luck.


[Modified by boostedeg6, 10:11 PM 6/5/2002]


[Modified by boostedeg6, 11:48 PM 6/5/2002]

ULTRA911

goodlord...$600?!? for a TB? It better be for a TypeR TB and a *******. you could get a typeR TB for $200-250 with tps & map sensor. Hey, if u try 3different ecu, and 2tb with different tps sensor...it has to be your wiring. i would trace the wires back to your ecu, maybe the wires you soldered fallen loose or touching each other. ...also, u make sure the tps is tightly bolted to the TB?

B_CRUZ!

i have come to the conclusion that my stock P72 ecu is bad. i tested the output voltage(- to the ecu) of the tps while it was idling and i adjusted it untill my Fluke read 0.5 at idle. i then shut the motor off but put the ignition on on, and checked to see that the output voltage didn't fluctuate. it was a smooth transition when i opened the throttle body all the way to WOT. so i tightened it while i was checking the output voltage to make sure it doesn't get out of adjustment and i reset the stock ecu. i stuck the ecu fuse in 30- mins later and fired it up for about 20 minutes to make sure it was running on operating temperature. i then took it for a spin and i instantly get a code after i pass 6000 rpm and no vtec . i went home swapped ecu's with my KATMAN chipped ecu and finally no codes and yes... i felt the vtec pull hard again
i have come to the conclusion that my first TPS went bad on me so any ecu i used it threw a code.
so people out there that have trouble with your tps, get a voltmeter and test the negative(-) middle wire. not the positive wire. the positive will always have around 5v(well it should). REMEMBER to test the negative output voltage for the 0.5 volts on idle and make sure it is smooth transition to 5v when you WOT the throttle body. it doesn't tell you on your helms to chekc it this way because you aren't supposed to even mess with the TPS. it wasn't meant to be adjusted by us.

Lei Siew Long

oops, my fault. yeah, i forgot it was the negative wire that transitions from .5 v to 4.5 v. but, it does show you how to test the tps in the helms manual but through a different procedure. it shows you how to test it through the ecu with a test panel.

good to hear you took care of your problem though.

B_CRUZ!

thanks BTW

Lei Siew Long

no problem.