LDS

94 civic 4 door h22 w placeracing mounts. Do you pull the motor out to replace timing belt and water pump or do it while its in the car? The valve cover almost hits the shock tower. I do have a few marks on the shock tower im guessing from launching the car and the motor barely hitting it. Any hints would be great.

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 94 civic 4 door h22 w placeracing mounts. Do you pull the motor out to replace timing belt and water pump or do it while its in the car? The valve cover almost hits the shock tower. I do have a few marks on the shock tower im guessing from launching the car and the motor barely hitting it. Any hints would be great.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i would just take the driver's side mount off and the the 3 bolts that hold the l bracket to the rear cross member.raise the motor up just enought to get the work done.there is no since in pulling the whole motor out.

harv

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

I have hasport mounts

i un-did the drivers side mount only

used a jack to move motor up and down

fastwanabe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have hasport mounts

i un-did the drivers side mount only

used a jack to move motor up and down</TD></TR></TABLE> same here except I have HCP's.

1700anddroping

i like to have plenty of room,plus i am a pretty big guy,but yes you can also do it that way to.


harv

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

^
^
I would have love to pulled my motor out. I thought about buying a new clutch just to make an excuse to pull it, haha.

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^
^
I would have love to pulled my motor out. I thought about buying a new clutch just to make an excuse to pull it, haha. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ha ha good one......

darkdementshun

Like a couple others said, just drop down the drivers side or raise it up. I know different mounts position the motor slightly different, but i used the jack method on the drivers side. It can be a pain but take your time and make sure you do everything right. It is worse going back in the second time after you overlooked something simple. I would know.... friggin sucks.

LDS

Thanks guys. Now i know its possible. I do need a new clutch though. It was fine till I ran the car on slicks for 5 passes now it feels different. The car makes enough power that it still kills second up to 55 mph but when i do the 60 mph 5th gear drop it does slip a lil and it didnt do that before.

I think i have at least 6 months of drag racing on street tires But no more slicks for me until i get a clutch.

thanks everyone you made my life easier.

darkdementshun

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think i have at least 6 months of drag racing on street tires But no more slicks for me until i get a clutch.

thanks everyone you made my life easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh come on! Just finnish that clutch off the right way! Launch off the rev limiter on some 26"ers. Something is bound to give up.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

I would buy the clutch and pull the motor and do everything at one time. It would make your life so much easier.

brandond

all i did was remove the driver side motor mount, i also have hasport mounts