intedgra

me and my buddies just finished installing a jdm h22 into a 94 integra gsr using a P13. The car idles really bad- the needle doesn't stay constant, it flucuates up to 2000 rpm and sticks and drops as low as 200 rpm. We can't figure whether if using a USDM TPS will effect the idle since the motor came with a broken jdm TPS?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Mike

cccya

bump for a good question...

CvexH22

Bust out the multimeter and a helms , i think at closed postion it should be on . 5 volt and at WOT 4.5 , look on the helms what it should be.. JDM or USDM, it should be the same .
My tps was off the TB when shipped, so all i had to do is re-align where it had bolted before , can actually see where the screw made a mark on it.. so i still check it with the multimeter anyways, everything was perfect.

junglerunna

I dont think it should matter if you use a JDM or USDM TPS. But make sure that and your IACV is wired correctly also.

2trix

hey you guys know if the tps would prevent me from revving!? car wont rev past 1200 rpm!? im gettin tps code 7, 14, 20, and 41....any ideas!?

Newman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intedgra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">me and my buddies just finished installing a jdm h22 into a 94 integra gsr using a P13. The car idles really bad- the needle doesn't stay constant, it flucuates up to 2000 rpm and sticks and drops as low as 200 rpm. We can't figure whether if using a USDM TPS will effect the idle since the motor came with a broken jdm TPS?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also check the Fast Idle Air control valve to make sure it's not stuck, and also check for a vacuum leak.... check the throttle body gasket and make sure that's still good. We had the exact same problem a couple of weeks ago on a GSR motor (surging idle by 2000 rpms), and it was those 2 problems. Not saying that those will be your problem but it's something more to look into as it wasn't brought up already.

Newman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2trix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey you guys know if the tps would prevent me from revving!? car wont rev past 1200 rpm!? im gettin tps code 7, 14, 20, and 41....any ideas!?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure your TPS and IAT plugs aren't swapped on the wrong sensors (codes 7 & 14). Check all of your grounds - tranny ground, ground by the thermostat, timing belt cover ground, etc (code 20). Try a different O2 sensor and/or make sure your wires are shielded for your heated O2 wire, going to the ECU (code 41). Give those a try first.

2trix

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Make sure your TPS and IAT plugs aren't swapped on the wrong sensors (codes 7 & 14). Check all of your grounds - tranny ground, ground by the thermostat, timing belt cover ground, etc (code 20). Try a different O2 sensor and/or make sure your wires are shielded for your heated O2 wire, going to the ECU (code 41). Give those a try first.

</TD></TR></TABLE> so any # of these problems could cause this? also iat is a 2 wire on my h22 and the tps is 3 wire...the only swap that could be done is map and tps...i think that my tps is not calibrated correctly? see the idles just about perfect and runs great otherwise...but when i get to 1200 rpm it cuts back dwn to 1000 rpm and it will continue to do this as long as your on the throttle....craziest dam thing ive ever seen!

COMplex.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CvexH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bust out the multimeter and a helms , i think at closed postion it should be on . 5 volt and at WOT 4.5 , look on the helms what it should be.. JDM or USDM, it should be the same .
My tps was off the TB when shipped, so all i had to do is re-align where it had bolted before , can actually see where the screw made a mark on it.. so i still check it with the multimeter anyways, everything was perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, that is the correct voltage from Helms.

0.5V @ IDLE
4.5V @ WOT

here's how to test:

1. turn ignition OFF
2. disconnect the 3P connector from TPS
3. turn ignition ON
4. measure voltage between YEL/WHT (+) terminal and GRN/WHT (-) terminal
5. is there approx 5V?

if no, its an open in the GRN/WHT wire somewhere from ECU to TPS

let me know if you need anything else.

apexi

This "hunting idle" is a common problem with honda. I got done with my H22A EG swap and had the same problem. If this would give you a piece of mind, TPS, IAC, O2, EGR, KS, and MAP does not have to be plug in for the car to start and run. If you leave off the TPS the engine will not response to throttle when it is depressed. I went thru the same thing thinking it was my TPS or MAP, bc I had swap the two connections. Swapping them had no effect on the sensors , the car still started, but like I said, when you give it gas, it will bog. I ran the car to the muffler shop without O2, MAP, KS, or EGR. So I, if the car response to throttle I don't think it is your TPS. To check if it is your IAC or VITV, plug the two holes on the TB (one at 8 o'clock and one at 10 o'clock) if the idles stops huntting then take the then it's an IAC/FIT/TB problem not TPS. I took all three pieces out to clean and now she idles like she is not even started (very smoothly). Note: after cleanning IAC/FITV and closing the FITV. If you tOok out the TB look in the are of where the idle screw is on the TB. The air passages should have build ups of carbon and dirt. Clean it. good luck

Mikey3000

the TPS wouldnt cause that. the connector on my TPS plug was broken, it just had 3 metal prongs sticking out of it. i used to just slide the plug onto that and it would fall off all the time while i drove. the car wouldnt do anything different, it drove like normal. so i dont think TPS has anything to do with how your motor idles. are you getting a check engine light? btw: all honda TPS's will work, so using a USDM on a JDM wont make a difference.

2trix

i figured out my rev prob! with the tps not on or not connected right the engine will not idle. the tps adjusts the air/fuel mix to a certain degree as well as spark timing...if the tps is off the T on the throttle body it will send a wot signal to ecu causing the engine to cut out like your hitting rev limit! craziest thing ive ever heard of but i got it fixed and now it revs...now i just need to figure out that dam 41 and 20 code? any have the process of getting rid of the dreaded 20 code ELD!? im gonna try the ground trick after work today!