thehatchninja

the CEL light is on and it feels like there is no bottom end or midrange....i'm taking it in sometime this week to a shop....any idea what it might be?

Turbogixxer

it is prolly in limp mode, do you know how to check CEL?

If not here: http://www.hondata.com/techecucodes.html

poison

Good job Kenny.

Check the CEL's. You're probably throwing MAP and TPS codes, and might have the harnesses swapped.

thehatchninja

you mean, i might have the map and tps sensor plugs swapped?

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean, i might have the map and tps sensor plugs swapped?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it's possible. Seen it before

thehatchninja

copied from hondata website

"OBDI and later ECUs
Find the diagnostic connector, which is a two wire blue connector found near the passengers feet, or in the centre console.
Short out the diagnostic connector with a piece of wire. The check engine light on the dash will flash the problem codes."

is this thing just an open plug that i shove a wire into?

bossman032

also can be the CKP, CYP, TDC dizzy sensor are one of the Main Causes of motor running like a peace of ****!!!

check the CEL lights and let US know!!

poison

If you look near your ECU, there is a huge green rubber plug cover.

One will have three wires, the other will have 2 wires.

You need to remove the plug with 2 wires with a BROWN, and a GRN/WHT wire.

Just grab a short wire, bend it into a U shape, and stick the bare ends into the pins.

Put the key into the ON position, and watch for the CEL.

1 short blink = 1
1 long blink = 10

Example - 2 long blinks and 1 short blink = 21.

thehatchninja

thanks...i'm about to do it....you guys rock

thehatchninja

i was kinda confused, cause all it did was blink....once, then break, then again...so it's either a code 1 or a code 10...i'm thinking it's a code 10...intake air temp sensor....because it's one of the only parts that i didn't wire...the guy i took it to to finish it did that....plus i then unplugged the iat, and it did the same thing.

ps....the blink lasted appx 1 second...(i counted "one mississippi")

bossman032

Looks like the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Well PLUG it in and see what is does.

Hmm you have to reset the ECU. Also it might be the wires at the ECU also might not be secure

If still has the problem change the sensor might be defective the resistance might be dead!!! Or get a Ohms tester test the sensor should be around 0.4-4.0.

poison

So, just code 10? Being 1 long blink, break, 1 long blink?

Check connections to the IAT. There is a ground which is D22. And the other wire is Red/Yel which goes to D15.

thehatchninja

just to see what'd happen i went a pulled the IAT off of my cx motor and put it on, started it up and drove around and no CEL.... ...it feels faster too....spun second when shifting at 7.5k

it's still giving me a code tho...guess i'll disconnect the battery for a while and see what happens

THANKS GUYS......i honda-tech and all of the people here


Modified by thehatchninja at 5:06 AM 6/17/2003

thehatchninja

well i took it for a spin and it felt pretty good, but in the top of second gear it felt kinda funny...like it missed or something....then BAM cel come's back on, this time it's a code 23....knock sensor......i don't know what to do...i'm thinking that it's not the sensor, since in missed....well no more time to work on it tonight....gotta get some sleep

poison

Just make sure the knock sensor is wired from the knock sensor to the D3 pinout. Make sure there is no break in the wire.

If it's wired up properly, then just simply replace it.

bossman032

NICE.

I had a code 23 also I forgot what I did to fix it!!

bossman032

HMM I think on your car you have to Disconnect the Fuse to Reset ECU!!!! THE FUSE FOR THE ECU

thehatchninja

actually all i did to reset the ECU was disconnect the positive battery terminal for about 15-20 minutes in between posts and working on my car....i'll check the wiring of the knock sensor today....hopefully i won't have to replace it....does anyone know how much it costs to replace?....oh also doesn't it have to be shielded wire?.....that's another part that i didn't do...i guess that's what you get for being lazy and paying someone to finish your swap......

poison

I would just jack up the car and throw it on jack stands.

Look at the back of the block and see if the Knock sensor is disconnected or broken. Make sure the wiring is good by grabbing a digital multimeter and testing out for open circuits to the D3 pinout.

If wiring shows good, then I would recommend you be on the market for a new knock sensor.

They run about $140 at the Honda dealership, but I've seen them run from $30-50 shipped around here on HT.

thehatchninja

thanks i'll go do that

thehatchninja

well it was the wiring....so i got that worked out....but the car still sputters in 2nd gear around 5.5-6.5k......i think it may be because of the 200k mile cx fuel pump, and also i may need to gap my spark plugs....do you guys think that this might be causing it.......

another thing....my cooling fan hasn't worked since the swap, whenever i drive it (which isn't that often) i've been blasting the heat...i really need to get that worked out, and that will be the last thing that i need to get it on the road.

thanks again guys

poison

Yes that will also most likely cause it to bog.

What radiator are you using?

thehatchninja

using the stock cx radiator for now

thehatchninja

bump...anyone know about this fan thing...i think i may try to plug in my a/c stuff again and see if that might have something to do with my fan not coming on

moike

my swap and many of my friend's swaps had the same issue with the fan not working. we all have had to re-wire it so that there is power to it all the time.