RSZero1

Okay, guys, I've been reading all the different posts regarding the LSVtec engines and my head is about to explode. Bottom line on this swap, from what I've read is that if you take your time and build it properly, this combo will last and have both the torque and hp for "real world" driving pleasure, not just 1/4 mile runs.

Now what I need is just details on the buildup. What really needs to be done? I don't want any why waste your time etc. just details please. Oh and bye the way, how many of you guys are running legal swaps? ie reffed. And are LS vtec swaps smogable?

Kataku2K3

For your bottom end i would go overbore .25mm Drop PR3, P30, or PCT slugs in.
For building the actual motor you can just use the LS rods (shotpeened is good too)
ARP rod bolts
GSR or ARP head bolts or studs
Oil suppy line to the head
Tap the stock OE oil feed line to the head
Drill out dowel pins to 14mm in head to match block
LS head gasket

I would recommend.....
VTEC oil pump
VTEC water pump and timing belt

That's about it.... Good Luck


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 11:26 AM 11/19/2002]

X2BOARD

Exactly how much have you 'read' on this ? If you read at least 40% of available LSVT posts you should KNOW what you need already.

youngkow

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/lsvtec/lsvtec.html

Pretty detailed info on how to do it.

RSZero1

Quote: Exactly how much have you 'read' on this ? If you read at least 40% of available LSVT posts you should KNOW what you need already.

I've read about 60-70% of it, and much is spread out and some conflicting, but most are build ups for drag and FI applications. All I needed was details for daily driving, not full bore abuse my engine every damn day type of thing, which is what I got from the post before yours...sorry if i offended by asking, but I have read.


[Modified by RSZero1, 1:48 PM 11/19/2002]

racecarpete

See the reason you read full rebuilds is because you have the block entirely apart, why not put some nice shiny stuff in there and make it run faster? Anyways, to avoid problems, you need to have vtec oil pump, vtec water pump, vtec timing belt, vtec head, and instead of drilling the dowel holes buy some off here from ffgeof. Read this post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=324342

A LOT of the problems you here with the head leaking and stuff are in the modification from the head. Because of the awkward size of the dowel it creates a little play in the head which isn't good. If you buy the dowels from ffgeof then you don't need to drill or anything, very nice idea and i'm glad someone thought of it. Other than that, run the necessary oil feed line, wire vtec solenoid and such and you should be good to go. have fun


[Modified by SilverCivic2k, 4:42 PM 11/19/2002]

racecarpete

this is taken from the link above and posted by ffgeof.

Basically just that.
These dowels make it so that anyone can do an LSVTEC that doesnt have a drill press.

In order to properly do the LS/VTEC conversion you are supposed to use a 14mm drill bit, on a drill press, and drill perfectly straight. Most people cant find a 14mm bit so they use a 9/16" drill bit which not only is expensive (usually around 16-20$) but is too big at 14.2 mm. Now that it is 14.2 mm, once the head is set on the block to torque it, there is a ton of play in it.

The dowels we are making allow you to simply put the head on the block, and keep it perfectly straight.

You will still need to tap a 1/8" NPT plug into the vtec port on the block, but that is easy to do with just a 1/8" NPT tap and a 10mm 12point socket/wrench. You wont need a drill press or a huge, hard to find drill bit.

thats the overall idea.

NA EJ1

add to this a Z10 block girdle and have the bottom end balanced and you shoud be fine...just break it in properly