SweetChin

ok i have a friend who swapped a obd1 gsr motor into a obd0 integra...
heres the problem... he starts to crank the motor and it just about starts...then sputters...then dies
we know the motor is getting spark and fuel... im guessing it might be the injectors or distributor
he is using the stock harness...
hacked up the wiring for the distributor...
is using the gsr injectors and clips
i know theres a few sensors and vac lines still not connected but i dont think its anything that important where it stop the car from running...the only one im not sure about is the map sensor
he is using the stock ls ecu
is planning on hooking up a vafc for vtec but we havent gotten to that point yet
the car is throwing a CEL but we havent gotten a chance to check what it was cuz the car blew a fuse somehow and we have to replace that...

what im leaning towards is he is using the gsr injectors...i know the stock injectors are peak-hold injectors with the resisitor box and the gsr's are saturated...but i remember someone saying that it should still work...if it was the other way around it wouldnt work...

well do you guys have any input

SweetChin

irev210

the most obvious thing to do is check the CEL's and fix those. After you fix those, you should be good.

about the injector resistor box w/ saturated injectors, it worked for me, but you can also cut the injector resistor box off and sodier all the wires together, the 4 red and the 1 black, just wire those all together.

VTECVillain

You guys are already off on a bad note. You shouldn't mix up OBD parts and definitely not run the B18C1 with the OBD0 LS ECU and use a VAFC to control the VTEC.
If you want to keep the cost down and minimize the wiring: You need to use the LS distributor and modify the legs for it to fit or get an OBD0 JDM B16A distributor. Get a JDM B16A PR3 ECU (won't control the IAB) and reuse the LS injectors and resistor box.

SweetChin

well we had some improvements... we had some of the vac lines for the fpr and map connected wrong...we fixed the codes that the ecu was throwing so no more CEL...friend didnt have the fuel return line connected(friend couldnt figure out where it went at first and plugged the line at first and forgot about it but we got that connected now...
we can get the car started for a second and then it just dies and crank...if we let the car sit for a minute, it'll start for a second and die again...this is more improvement then the other day...
my friend tried reconnecting the plugs for the distributor and plugging the the ls distributor and it still not running...so my friend wired the gsr distibutor back in for some reason...
i know we are getting spark and we are getting fuel...
the only thing i can think of are maybe the injectors...he might have wired them backwords or something but i thought injectors just need a power and ground and it'll work...i dont know

any more suggestions anyone???

irev210

u can mix obd parts all day long
the only differences are obd0 and obd1 dizzys arent interchangable
obd1 ecu needs obd1 dizzy
obd0 ecu needs obd0 dizzy
o2 sensors=
4 wire for obd1
1 wire for obd0

saturated/peakhold injectors are irrelevent for obd, just one requires injector resistor box, one doesnt

VTECVillain

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can mix obd parts all day long</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never said couldn't I said shouldn't

I was being very vague just to get this guy straight on the best route to go with the swap, which would be ALL OBD0 parts. Mixing OBD1 and OBD2 there a very little differences and nearly all things interchange but OBD0 has it's differences.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">saturated/peakhold injectors are irrelevent for obd, just one requires injector resistor box, one doesnt</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's subjective to specific setups. Running OEM Honda OBD1 or OBD2 injectors on an OBD0 ECU whether you use a resistor box or not, isn't a good idea and doesn't always work.

irev210

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mixing OBD1 and OBD2 there a very little differences and nearly all things interchange but OBD0 has it's differences.

That's subjective to specific setups. Running OEM Honda OBD1 or OBD2 injectors on an OBD0 ECU whether you use a resistor box or not, isn't a good idea and doesn't always work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive never had any problem running saturated injectors with obd0 ecu w/ no resistor box.

obd1 VS obd0

thermo fan switch
mounted in back of block VS mounted on water neck, totally differnent plugs, same color wires

o2
4 wire vs 1 wire

dizzy
pulse rate firing differences
if you try to start your car with an obd0 ecu and obd1 dizzy ur a dumbass

injectors
MOST obd0 are peak hold MOST obd1 are saturated

are innerchangeable w/ the right configuration


obd1 vs obd2

injector clips
even though both are saturated, obd2 injectors are way easier to unplug

dizzy
same pulse rates, 1 plug on obd2 vs 2 plugs on obd2, can be rewired to work on 92+ car

o2 sensor
obd2 has in cat o2

ecu
way smarter, obd2 data link and more codes etc

crank flux sensor
not on JDM motors but a worthy note only on obd2 cars

There are a few more things that im sure I forgot

it seems all pretty cut and dry, what else am I missing?

R6Boy69

i have a computer and distributor for your motor and car... check sig... maybe we could work out a deal for that VAFC... IM if hes interested.

R6Boy69

and if thats the obd1 gsr dizzy then would he cosider a trade for my pre obd dizzt... get back to me...