djnikko

I have 2 purge valves left over after swapping a H22 into an EG civic. Can anyone tell me how vital they are?

Pressure regulator cut-off solenoid valve (A10) & EVAP solenoid (A20)

I am having engine surging problems and wonder if this is the cause.

Thanks in advance

djnikko

Ok so I wired in the EVAP solenoid tonight and am still having idling issues, in particular surging once warm. I still have another purge valve which im not sure what to do with or whether it effects the running of the car.

Can someone tell me which is the purge valve that sits next to the MAP sensor? and which is the purge valve that sits on the fuel rail of the H22? I hope I havent got them mixed up

Cheers

GSaura

EVAP is unnecessary. Just make sure you plug up all holes with something. I don't know about the PRCSV. Just check all of your vacuum lines.

djnikko

Cheers matey, I just read on another site it might throw a CEL (which it hasnt) but wont affect driveablility. I was hoping it related to my surging idle but have just read about changing the thermostat so shall give that a go next.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALzVy9T2_4M

GSaura

It'll only throw a code if you're using an ECU that's searching for the EVAP signals (ie a stock OBD2 ECU).

Dude, what's going on in that video? Was the surging idle the last part where it accelerated, or did you put your foot on the gas?

If it were my car, I'd remove the PRCSV to see what happens

djnikko

Im using a P13 so hopefully it isn't an issue but ive been recommended to go with a P28 though im doubting that will eliminate the surge.

The last part of the video was the car surging, then I switched it off right after the surge.

I did have the PRCSV removed previously, it was only yesterday I wired it in but still surging. Im running outta ideas, today I was going to change the thermostat as after reading someone elses thread they reckoned the if the hot coolant isnt getting to the FITV or EACV then it can cause a surge. Also Ive messed with the idle screw which can cause surging once warm so am going to look for a guide on setting the idle screw now and go from there

boostedjdmh22a

Hopefully its the idle screw i had a dumb **** dealing with my first moter swap 6 years ago and i tore that **** apart before we finally got it figured out and it was the idle screw it also had a vacuum line off the back of the intake manifold. it was real hard to spot look clear up underneath and behind towards the fire wall make sure their aint anything open it caused my idle to be a pain in the ***. good luck?

djnikko

I got on with it alot better today, I bled the coolant as per the manual (rad cap off for 2 heat cycles) and prior to that I made sure a stream of water with no bubbles was coming out from the thermostat bleed nipple. I also swapped back to the D15 accell cable and it seemed to help. I still dont think the idles perfect and my bet is the idle screw. Im imagining it like those old radios where you have tuning (in this case the accell cable) and fine tuning (in this case the idle screw). Is this roughly correct?

Can someone tell me if screwing the idle screw in or out increases the idle?

Thanks