JDMB16EG

I am just completing a swap with a 1st gen (88-91) B16A into an EG hatch. It is on the road and running fine. But, the check engine light is still on. It is giving a code that is telling me that there is a heater missing in the O2 sensor. I know it doesn't need one, but how can I make the ECU think that it has a heater in the O2 sensor just so the damn check engine light will turn off. How can I override the system to do this??

Qfactor

use a 5-10 watt 30-40 ohm ceramic resistor to simulate the resistance of the heater element. make sure is not touching anything that would catch fire. might want to get a small heat sink or get a higher wattage like 10watts but not less than Watts.

VTECVillain

You shouldn't have to "fool" the ECU because if the O2 is good and it's wired properly then it will not throw the CEL. The heater element is part of the 4 wire O2 which you must use a 4 wire O2 sensor with a P30 ECU. If you have a CX or VX model then you need to convert the wiring to a 4 wire O2 setup.

Qfactor

The part of the O2 sensor will still work sending its signal to maintain proper air/fuel mixture, I've tested O2 signals with an O-scope that had bad heater elements and these O2's where from obd2 vehicles with less than 25k on them and work flawlessly.

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Qfactor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The part of the O2 sensor will still work sending its signal to maintain proper air/fuel mixture, I've tested O2 signals with an O-scope that had bad heater elements and these O2's where from obd2 vehicles with less than 25k on them and work flawlessly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, it will read a/f fine, once it gets hot. O2 sensors aren't very effective when they are cold. Might not be a big deal if you're in a warm climate but during cold start the car might run like crap til the sensor warms up from the engine, which could take a while. For the $55 it costs for a new sensor just get a new one instead of rigging in a resistor.

s

Qfactor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the $55 it costs for a new sensor just get a new one instead of rigging in a resistor.

s </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, $55 dollars I hope it's not cheap Bosch O2 sensor, that would be good for about a year.

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Qfactor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn, $55 dollars I hope it's not cheap Bosch O2 sensor, that would be good for about a year. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bosch is one of the better names out there when it comes to OE equipment. I've never had any problems with them. I think the dealer price for them is insane.

s

JDMB16EG

i decided to switch to 4 wire instead of ghetto rigging it. The dealer price is like $275. INSANE is right. I can't find a $55 one, but i found one for $117. Good enough for me. Thanks for everyone's help.