bambbrose

iTrader: (1)

I just finished swapping and obd1 h22 into my 97 dx hatch.

Go to the end for my question, just rambling about my setup and issues here

I'm using an obd1 conversion harness, the factory DX wiring harness, and everything was wired up correctly as far as I can tell (double and tripple checked everything).

Did the following wiring wise:
-wired vtec solenoid, oil pres, and vtec ground
-wired knock
-wired IAB
-wired EGR lift valve on intake mani
-switched to 2 wire iacv plug and did the pin mod
-resistor box and obd1 injector plugs
-changed wiring for obd1 dizzy
-changed wiring for obd1 alternator
-and the usual lengthening of plugs here and there.

I haven't wired up the EGR lift solenoid as I didn't get one with my swap, I'm working on that. I also haven't installed my o2, I still need to get a bung for that.

Those should be my only two codes.

Now here is what is happening, Car starts up in limp mode. Runs but has the obvoius fuel cut at 3000 rpm. Has solid CEL, even when jumper is hooked up.
This is using a factory, virgin, JDM h22 ecu.

Tried plugging in a p28 instead. With P28 no solid CEL, but it won't run. It'll crank and fire but instantly die.

Tried a P75, same thing, crank and fire but instantly dies. Also tried a P07 with the same results.

When I try to use the P13 in a stock 94 Ex it has solid CEL.


This leads me to believe that my ECU is definitely the culprit.

Now for my question

Should a P28 run in an H22, or does it normally just do what I described (starts but instantly dies like its not getting enough fuel)?

Should a P75 at least run? Or would that just start and die as well?


What I'm trying to figure out is if there is something else going on here before I fork out the money for the ECU.
Thanks guys

bambbrose

iTrader: (1)

anyone?

How about what factory ecus will run an h22 for testing purposes and to drive around?

I know p72 for sure, but what other ones?