opinion on not boring before new sleeves?
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opinion on not boring before new sleeves?
Down time is a huge concern being that my Teg is my only car. Im planning on doing a simple LS/Vtec setup on my b18b with 91,XXX miles on it. Im going to use shot pinned LS rods, and JDM b16a pistons (p30 I believe), and new rings. I plan on just taking the old LS pistons and rods out, and drop the new stuff in without taking the engine out of the car. Will the new rings seat right with out boring the sleeves out at all? Anyone have any thoughts on this subject?
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Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (BLK94RS)
from what I understand you'llneed to at least hone the cylinder walls. Won't you need to replace bearings too for new rods?
#3
Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (BLK94RS)
It might work but not a good idea.
Cyl bore with 91xxx miles on it will have some wear on it.
It has to be rehoned and matched the oversize piston you are buying.
Its only $60 to rebore and hone. Your going to spend some money at the machine shop anyway to install the con-rods and pison pin. (u need to machine press this).
It only takes a day or 2 to do this, depending on machine shop schedule.
What would take time is taking all the other stuff out of the block. Some machine shops are very particular about this and would not work on your block if its has some parts attached to it. (liability thingy I think.... something might break and then a blame game).
Do the right thing the first time and you save tons of money in the long run!
Cyl bore with 91xxx miles on it will have some wear on it.
It has to be rehoned and matched the oversize piston you are buying.
Its only $60 to rebore and hone. Your going to spend some money at the machine shop anyway to install the con-rods and pison pin. (u need to machine press this).
It only takes a day or 2 to do this, depending on machine shop schedule.
What would take time is taking all the other stuff out of the block. Some machine shops are very particular about this and would not work on your block if its has some parts attached to it. (liability thingy I think.... something might break and then a blame game).
Do the right thing the first time and you save tons of money in the long run!
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Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (johnd)
I am now considereing taking a week vacation so I can do this right. I am now considering the JDM CTR pistons which in the b18b with the b16 head would yeild a CR of 12.02:1. Through http://www.jdmhondaparts.com I can get those pistons for $330 w/rings. Is that a good price, or is there somewhere else to get them cheeper at?
I have a couple Q's about the CTR pistons. I will get them .25 over, does that mean it is .25mm over, or .25 inch over?
WIll there be enought piston/Valve clearance to run CTR/ITR cams?
How high will the CTR/ITR cams make power too?
What will need to be done to the valve train to run those cams safely(springs, retainers)? Will just the portflow inner springs do?
I hear once that you have to instal "lost motion" things(not sure what they are) in the B16 head to run CTR/ITR cams, do I? What are they? and where do I get them?
I have a couple Q's about the CTR pistons. I will get them .25 over, does that mean it is .25mm over, or .25 inch over?
WIll there be enought piston/Valve clearance to run CTR/ITR cams?
How high will the CTR/ITR cams make power too?
What will need to be done to the valve train to run those cams safely(springs, retainers)? Will just the portflow inner springs do?
I hear once that you have to instal "lost motion" things(not sure what they are) in the B16 head to run CTR/ITR cams, do I? What are they? and where do I get them?
#5
Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (BLK94RS)
I do not know how much a CTR piston is because I dont have a B16 engine.
I do have a B18C and prices for ITR pistons (the ones with the molly coat to reduce friction) are below.
7522 001 (4) PISTON (OS 0.25) 34.07 Each
7552 002 (4) RING SET (OS 0.25) 29.19 Each
7757 006 (4) PIN, PISTON 9.65 Each
U need 4 pieces of each.
Below is the link. http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net/
Do not buy the pistons yet because the machine shop will tell you what oversize you need.
Why???
Because depending on the wear on your engine and the depth of honing, they determine how much "oversize" of a piston you need.
This is critical in computing your compression ration because the bigger oversize piston you have, your comp ratio becomes higher.
You dont want to end up with an engine with a comp ratio so high that it starts burning fuel and air just from the heat on compression stroke.... just like a diesel engine.
For the valve train.......
Get valve springs specifically made for the cams. If you use ITR cams, then use ITR springs. If you use CTR cams, use CTR springs. Dont go overiving pass the cams and valve spring combo design because you will enter valve float.
If you get all these sorted out, you are good to go. Save some money for Dyno runs because you will need it with your frank engine.
I do have a B18C and prices for ITR pistons (the ones with the molly coat to reduce friction) are below.
7522 001 (4) PISTON (OS 0.25) 34.07 Each
7552 002 (4) RING SET (OS 0.25) 29.19 Each
7757 006 (4) PIN, PISTON 9.65 Each
U need 4 pieces of each.
Below is the link. http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net/
Do not buy the pistons yet because the machine shop will tell you what oversize you need.
Why???
Because depending on the wear on your engine and the depth of honing, they determine how much "oversize" of a piston you need.
This is critical in computing your compression ration because the bigger oversize piston you have, your comp ratio becomes higher.
You dont want to end up with an engine with a comp ratio so high that it starts burning fuel and air just from the heat on compression stroke.... just like a diesel engine.
For the valve train.......
Get valve springs specifically made for the cams. If you use ITR cams, then use ITR springs. If you use CTR cams, use CTR springs. Dont go overiving pass the cams and valve spring combo design because you will enter valve float.
If you get all these sorted out, you are good to go. Save some money for Dyno runs because you will need it with your frank engine.
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Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (johnd)
If and after I do this, I will buy Hondata 2, and have it Dyno tunned. Are those pistons you gave me the price for USDM or JDM? How much over bore can you get them?
#7
Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (BLK94RS)
Will the new rings seat right with out boring the sleeves out at all?
SLPR.......
Trending Topics
#8
Re: opinion on not boring before new sleeves? (BLK94RS)
If and after I do this, I will buy Hondata 2, and have it Dyno tunned. Are those pistons you gave me the price for USDM or JDM? How much over bore can you get them?
As I have said, the amount of overbore you need will be determined by the machine shop. Theoretically you want the slightest deviation as possible from the original factory piston. Depending on the wear and tear on your cylinders plus the grinding the machine shop will do on honing, then they would tell you what oversize piston you need. Most of the time, you can only go 3 overiseze bigger than original. If your cylinders is really worn out, then you will have to re-sleeve the engine. This means you buy new cyl on top of the pistons sets you will purchase. This is rarely the case but they do happen.
Hope this helps out.
#9
Overheating.....
2 more things to consider.
As comp ratio gets higher, engine tends to overheat more.
As cyl wall get thinner (from overboring) engine tends to overheat more too.
Combine this 2 things and you got another $300-400 dollars worth of bigger radiator bill.
As comp ratio gets higher, engine tends to overheat more.
As cyl wall get thinner (from overboring) engine tends to overheat more too.
Combine this 2 things and you got another $300-400 dollars worth of bigger radiator bill.
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Re: Overheating..... (johnd)
I know the boring process. What I was asking, is can you get OEM pistons in other than the stock bore and .25 over? I would like to go with the .25 over bore though. I am positive that my block has never been bored out, and it runs perfect, so Im sure .25 will be plenty.
Right now I am thinking I will just pull my whole engine, completely disassemble it, and take the block to a machine shop and hope it will be able to be finished within 2 days. I really cannot be without my car for more than 5 days. I know if I can get the block back in 2 days, I can have it back together and in my car in 2-3 days.
When do this, I will rebuild with the following:
New main bearings
New rod bearings
New GSR oil pump
New GSR pickup
New GSR water pump
New GSR timing belt
All new top end gaskets
All bottom end gaskets
On top of that, for the LS/VTec converison, I will use these parts
b18b crank, balenced
b18b rods, shot pinned
ARP rod bolts
b16b pistons 81.25mm
new rings
b16a2 head
B16 cams (until I can afford CTR cams and new valve springs)
p28 ECU w/Mugen chip (during brake in)
Hondat stage 2 (after brake in)
Im sure Im missing somthing, but this is what I cam up with off the top of my head.
Right now I am thinking I will just pull my whole engine, completely disassemble it, and take the block to a machine shop and hope it will be able to be finished within 2 days. I really cannot be without my car for more than 5 days. I know if I can get the block back in 2 days, I can have it back together and in my car in 2-3 days.
When do this, I will rebuild with the following:
New main bearings
New rod bearings
New GSR oil pump
New GSR pickup
New GSR water pump
New GSR timing belt
All new top end gaskets
All bottom end gaskets
On top of that, for the LS/VTec converison, I will use these parts
b18b crank, balenced
b18b rods, shot pinned
ARP rod bolts
b16b pistons 81.25mm
new rings
b16a2 head
B16 cams (until I can afford CTR cams and new valve springs)
p28 ECU w/Mugen chip (during brake in)
Hondat stage 2 (after brake in)
Im sure Im missing somthing, but this is what I cam up with off the top of my head.
#11
Re: Overheating..... (BLK94RS)
I know the boring process. What I was asking, is can you get OEM pistons in other than the stock bore and .25 over? I would like to go with the .25 over bore though. I am positive that my block has never been bored out, and it runs perfect, so Im sure .25 will be plenty.
But most likely they do as most american and jap car companies makes up to 3rd oversize pistons.
I think you got all you bases covered. Just allocate a little bit more money for unexpected expenses and you are good to go.
#12
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Re: Overheating..... (johnd)
Can someone tell me how far out is 1st, 2nd, and 3rd overbore sizes? I have never heard of those terms in the honda world before.
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