JDM_ek9

ok well my idle screwed up on me yesterday and wouldn't idle normally just as I was about to race a GT V8 stang.

Checked CEL's and I got 3 of them now instead of the 2 I had

Mind you this is a USDM 1999 B18C1 in a 2000 EK hatch.
AEM CAI/ITR midpipe/Spoon muffler only mods on motor so far

Well I had Code 74 (misfire 4th cylinder) EVERYTHING was checked and all is in good condition

Code 20 (Electrical Overload sensor) dunno what that is and where that came from.


Last night when I was about to race the GT V8 stang my car started to idle funny and it got back to normal. As we were racing the car started to run sluggish and rms would go up REALLY REALLY slow. Threw another code and it was idling like I was running Toda C's or something jumping up and down (not going below 1100rpm) I found out it was CODE 3 (manifold active pressure sensor) what the hell is that. I throw codes I have no clue about. Man this is stressing me out. Oh btw I just got 2 brand new O2 sensors and changed that around so I would of had 5 codes throwing.

badCRX

The manifold absolute pressure sensor is the sensor on the top of your throttle body.

The electrical overload problem could be a result of an alternator going bad. Does the alternator make a whining sound at all?

poison

Hmm, something like that is hard to troubleshoot w/o being in front of the car.

I would check the MAP sensor, switch it out with a new one, make sure the area inside the TB along with the MAP tube is clean to ensure it can get the right vacuum readings. The MAP sensor is located on top of your throttle body.

I would ALSO take off your distributor cap and check the insides of the distributor and make sure the rotor/cap is in good shape.

Reset your ECU and go from there....

b20ek

I would just run a conversion harness and get a chipped obd1 ecu.

PHiZ

eh, I don't think this is going to solve any of his problems, and you have to be careful, some of the real "race-spec" ecus, have a lot of the sensors disabled, so you lose your ability to diagnose problems.

ELD is the Electronic Load Detector, and it's responsibility is to generate more juice under load...

Might be a subtle wiring problem needing to be tracked down, good luck.

-PHiZ

JDM_ek9

ok well I visited 2 Honda Gods from this board and Clubsi board lol yes clubsi has honda gods.

my Code 3 (MAP sensor) code has gone away. thank god *phew*

Some idiot at the mechanic shop put BEDEN spark plug wires (NAPA aftermarket)
I am getting Spoon one's installed tomorrow and see if it'll fix problem code 74

Regarding the ELD (Code 20) I need to find a car with an ELD sensor in the fuse box and grab it for my car. It's a coil that wraps around the metal piece in the 2000dx fuse box and goes into the ecu. I don't even have ANY wire coming out of the pinout hole where the ELD is supposed to be connected.

Thankx guys and I will be doing an OBD1 ecu soon. I am on the dark side. Boost is coming soon

aLLjDMRalf

how did u get the code 3 to go away just out of couriosidy

JDM_ek9

It went away by itself

but I can't figure out why Code 74 is still there I've changed the plugs,wires,cap and Tuesday switching the rotor plus next Sunday getting a valve adjustment done