blackcherry

Hey-

I have recently swapped my 00 GSR into my 92 Canadian model CX hatch (all 92s are prewired for VTEC). Specs on the motor are Eagle rods, CP 9-1 pistons, ACL Race bearings and stock head (Skunk2 IM + 68mm TB). Ignition setup is a full MSD setup. Distributor, Coil Driver, Wires and NGK 8's. The turbo kit on it is from Peakboost with a .57 trim Garrett T3T4 at 17psi 404whp. It is tuned with Hondata S300 in a P30 ECU (JDM P28 equivalent). Several sensors have been disabled like the O2 sensors, knock sensor, atmospheric pressure sensor (not on USDM GSR's but since the ECU is JDM this must be disabled). For the swap, I reused the GSR wiring harness. Also, all emissions related components have been removed. (FICV, EVAP, PCV and obv the IAB's and Purge that comes on GSRs). Previously the hatch had an OBD1 LS and my GSR setup came out of my 00 DC2. Both cars ran fine before being pulled. My issue now is, the GSR will hardly run. When the hatch is started normally, it idles for .5 seconds and thats it. I wouldn't even consider it a full blown stall because it doesn't even get running. (Engine cranks fine but like I said, when it starts to run it immediately stops). Now, if the gas pedal is held down about halfway the engine will run, but it's **** poor and as soon as you let go of the gas pedal it stalls out. I have no CELs until the RPM's hit about 4 or 5k then the CEL will flicker but does not stay on after it stalls. (this CEL could just be the ECU recognizing there is a misfire) It sounds a lot like it is missing due to ignition, but as stated earlier, the MSD setup ran fine before and nothing was touched/ changed for the swap. I am at a loss as to what the issue is and it is difficult to diagnose because it does run (horribly) with the pedal halfway down and I can't pull any codes since the CEL is never on once the car stalls.

blackcherry

All cylinders are getting fuel (after cranking and not starting all plugs are wet with fuel). All spark plug wires are in order. 1234 starting from the timing belt and when standing at the dizzy (pass) side of the motor looking at the dizzy the wires are 3(top left) 4(top right) 1(bottom left) 2(bottom right)

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Pull. The. CEL.
What is the Hondata tuned for? This setup or a previous one?
What color is your spark?

blackcherry

Unfortunately the CEL only pops up while the motors is pitifully running and then goes away once it has stalled. Since this is a OBD1 ECU it does not retain all records of any CEL like OBD2. As for the Hondata, it was tuned with the exact setup that is on it now while it was in my DC2. Next things I will be checking/ doing are to 1. check mechanical timing, 2. try a P28 harness 3. test an OEM style dizzy 4. compression test and I will go from there. I was kind of hoping someone would be able to point out something stupid I missed in doing this OBD2B swap into an EG but i'm starting to think there is a real issue here.

blackcherry

and of course I will check the spark for color like you said.

blackcherry

So it has been awhile, but this is not my daily so this got put to the side. I pulled compression and the numbers were well within spec. So after this, I began checking the mechanical timing and turns out it is just fine. About a year ago I replaced the crank flux sensor because it was going out and was giving me random stalls and no starts. The car ran fine after I swapped this out with a new one. Well as it seems, when I installed the new one, (it has 2 10mm bolts mounting the sensor and bracket in) on one of the holes for the mounting bolts, they seem to have been damaged but I installed the bolt anyway and just didn't snug it down too hard and risk pulling the threads out completely. Well, that bolt was no longer there when the lower timing cover came off and the sensor shifter toward the cog gear on the oil pump. . .. and OUCH. There is a 1/4" deep groove on the face of the crank flux sensor now. FAIL. Instead of buying another expensive sensor I just need to find an OBD1 B Series alternator and I will install my P28 harness as well as my MSD Stepdown Distributor Harness. This will make the entire engine OBD1 and the stupid crank flux will no longer be at the oil pump, it will now be in the MSD Distributor and will actually be used since the P28 harness and stepdown will send signal to the ECU from there now. I know it seems like something I should have checked long ago, but knowing I had JUST replaced it did not throw any red flags saying to check it.

94EG8

OBD1 ECUs don't look for a CKF sensor, it's got nothing to do with your issue. Also, OBD1 and OBD2 distributors are identical other than the grey plug(s) where they connect to the engine harness.

Also, OBD1 ECUs will retain a stored code like an OBD2 ECU will. If the backup fuse is blown it wont though. In any case you can jump the service connector and check the code while it's running.

blackcherry

In no way do I claim to "know it all". With that being said, how did my GSR run while it was running an OEM dizzy and P28 S300 without recognizing the crank flux? Does this setup just "eliminate" that sensor all together? From what I have read, the CKF sensor was inside the dizzy up until 2000-2001 models, which at that point they were located at the oil pump.

blackcherry

And about the CEL, that only popped up while the car was running and being revd and it did not stay lit but for maybe second and would go away while it was still running. Maybe there is an issue with the backup fuse like you said, but the Hondata will not remember this code. Also if i'm not mistaken, you can only pull the CEL while the CEL is lit when you do the jumper trick, so as far as I know that will not help either since it only really flashes more or less.

HondaPartsHero

The crank fluctuation sensor looks for engine misfire by fluctuations at the crank its not a crank position sensor as many people mistakenly take it for. The crankshaft position sensor, top dead center sensor and cylinder sensor are all in the distributor for 88-00 Civics. Honda started using the CKF sensor in 96.

94EG8

^ this. Also Most JDM OBD2 engines don't have the CKF sensor either (some OBD2 D15B vtecs do)

OBD1 and OBD2 distributors are absolutely 100% functionally identical. If you took one apart you couldn't tell the difference because there isn't any.

If the CEL only flashes it may be a random misfire as well.