1990IntegraLS

If I'm going to swap out my b18a1 to k20a2, that's going to obd2? I've seen here lots of people say the obd1 is preferable.
For my swap that'd be a bit too much?

What, I'd have take my Teg from obd0 to obd1 and the k20a2 from obd2 to obd1. They meed in the middle thru different harness kits?
That seems a little difficult. OBD 2 is ok? What's would be worth the extra effort of taking both car and engine to obd1? Not to mention the extra expense.

I know what these things are, but I don't know much more. I know where my ecu is and where most of the sensors are....and harnesses all over the place.

K7-1Ktrevor

K series never came obd1. The reason you hear pbd1 is better is because for d/b/h/f series excluding the s2k motors, obd1 ecus for the most part are chippable so you can tune them. The obd2 ecus aren't. To be able to tune k series that's swapped you need a hondata kpro ecu which is about 800-900ish range. Once you have that the engine can be tuned, any parts can be changed or upgraded to what ever custom setup you want and the ecu will be able to run it right with a good tune. Obd0 ecus can be tune able but no one will mess with them anymore due to they have a slower processing rate and the last time tuning software was updated for obd0 was probably 20+ years ago now at this point.

1990IntegraLS

Yeah, I"m not really wanting hondata, unless it was required was to tune for E85. Otherwise oem 200hp is fine. From what I'm reading, the K20a series should run fine on E15...however with worse gas mileage.

JRCivic1

Unfortunately, "not really wanting Hondata" is irrelevant. You MUST have a tuning solution (Hondata, K-Tuner, AEM, Motech, etc.) to allow the engine to run properly and to avoid a ****-ton of work. A "K-Swap" in a 2nd generation Integra will require a primary and secondary O2 sensor, a cat-converter, a return-less fuel system including the emissions related sensors and charcoal cannister, a DC5 or ES gauge cluster and the multi-plexer to control it... shall I go on ???

OP, do yourself a favor and buy Hondata... it will make your life easier and your engine will work properly.

K7-1Ktrevor

Not to mention there's a lot to be gained from a solid tune. Driveability, throttle response, fuel economy and power output can all be greatly improved over stock engine management. Kpro is expensive but it's well worth it and it has a solid resale value just incase you decide later you'd rather run a stock ecu.. but you won't.

1990IntegraLS

My car has a closed loop fuel system and charcoal canister, tho I'm not sure if it has 2 cat sensors. I don't remember when I put in the DC Sports header. It does have 1 sensor on that. I'll look and see if it has one after the cat too.

Your saying converting to the oem k2 will require more than the harness conversions and a k2 ecu? I already know I'll have to use newer sensors.

....but these people are saying i'll need the kpro also:
https://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/d427.html

That's going to add about $1500 to the total cost....unless I can find them individually elsewhere.
I do have a question about the cluster. In my dashboard? In a DA dashboard?

1990IntegraLS

"return-less fuel system"? Is that like the "evaporative emission control system" that's in my Ranger?

I had to put a sensor in the evaporitve chamber, in my Ranger a couple years ago. My Teg has the charcoal filter but not the evap system....or the 2nd sensor behind the cat.

1990IntegraLS

There's no path, no wiring for the newer systems.

1990IntegraLS

There's no path, no wiring for the newer systems.
oops, double post.

JRCivic1

Exactly. Your current fuel system is a "return" type, which means that the pump runs fuel up to the rail and is regulated at the fuel rail exit by a fuel pressure regulator, allowing some flow to go back to the tank and maintain the appropriate pressure. A return-less system is regulated by a FPR in the tank and pumps up to the fuel rail with no excess going back to the tank.

The emissions related stuff is extensive and complicated. The charcoal cannister that you have now is only one part of the system found in the OBD-2 RSX. You should examine a diagram of the emissions system from a RSX to get a full picture of what you will need to add to your car. What you have and what you will need are vastly different... your current vapor vent line is a 1/4" inside diameter... the RSX vapor vent line is an 11/16" inside diameter... that is like 5 times the size !!!

1990IntegraLS

Thanks, I appreciate this info. It's difficult to find out these details, at least for me, and I must know what I"m getting into ahead. I built and drove air-cooled VWs most of my life. I'm thrilled to have this particular Integra, and want to drive it for a long time.

1990IntegraLS

I appreciate the info, but I've decided just to get a obd1 gsr. The K-swap for this car is more money and particularly more time and difficulty than I want to pursue.

JRCivic1

That is a much easier... and cheaper... engine swap. Good luck.