Accordian47

*Sorry about the title of this thread, it won't let me change it, I am planning on a J32A2 motor not a J35A8.

*Here is a link to a complete Microsoft OneDrive hosted version of the MS Word build document: "FR" Conversion - Twin Turbo J32A2, RWD, 6 Spd - Build

The engine for this build will be a J32A2, 3.2L, Acura J Series V6 found in the 2001-2003 Acura CL Type-S and the 2002-2003 Acura TL Type-S. The J Series was first introduced in 1996 to replace the C Series V6’s (Found in the Acura Legend and NSX). They are built at Honda's Anna, Ohio and Lincoln, Alabama engine plants. They are a 60°, SOHC, VTEC engine that produces 260hp and 232 lb. ft. in stock form. These engines are relatively inexpensive, lightweight, have a small footprint, are readily available and are a somewhat less common engine to build. These engines produce good low end to mid range torque, right where I’d like to have power on tap and respond well to forced induction. I will be replacing and refreshing any worn components with quality replacements and installing high performance aftermarket parts where possible to produce a reliable, high output engine. I'd like to be right around 700hp at the crank with the future possibility of more. The fact that the J32A2 will be sleeved and have forged internals means it could go north of 900. I want to make the 700hp on pump gas, proabaly 93 octane and this will be difficult but with the right tune totally feasible. My goal is good throttle response & good low end torque with a reasonable midrange. I'm not too concerned about making peak, dragstrip style, 8,000RPM+ hp, just want to spool quickly and be streetable. What will aid in this is the turbo size, the right tune and especially the 12:1 compression ratio I will be running. I chose Garrett GTX2867R GEN II turbos that are designated by Garrett, to have a 275-550hp range per turbo & a 1.4L-2.5L displacement range. As far as displacement goes, @ 1.6L per turbo with the 3.2L J32A2, they will be operating at a fairly moderate output compared to what they are rated for (Approximately 64% Per Turbo). @ 700 flywheel hp, they would be operating at 350hp per turbo, well within the 275-550hp, designated range. I chose the turbo size carefully and they are on the small side when compared to the other, twin turbo j series builds i've seen (alot of GTX3076's & even GTX3576's).

This dream plan is one I made out of desire, passion, partly boredom and just for fun. Will I aquire $100k anytime soon?...I doubt it, but we can all dream and plan things out, right?. I got what it takes fabrication skills and know-how wise but I would need thousands of dollars worth of specialty equipment and a shop with a lift ontop of the quite "rich" cost of parts... yada yada. Honestly, I want the thing BAD though. I do love my car for what it is though and know this type of thing can easily get out of hand when it comes to the very thought processes involved as well as the physical execution but if I went all out and did it, it would rival cars that would cost 3 times as much and still be a 20yr old Honda.


Engine: (J32A2) Aftermarket/Performance:

• DARTON MID Sleeves
• JE Forged Pistons (12:1 Compression)
• Pauter 4340 Chrome-Moly Rods
• KING Bearings
• P2R J Series Holley EFI Intake Plenum Adapter Kit
• Holley HI-RAM Manifold
• Holley Sniper EFI 92mm Chevy LS Throttle Body
• InlinePRO Main & Head Studs
• InlinePRO J Series Race Xtreme Duty Tensioner
• Gates T286RB Racing Timing Belt
• OKADA Projects Plasma Direct Ignition Coils (For S2000)
• NGK Iridium IX BKR8EIX (2668) Heat Range 8 Spark Plugs
• HalferLand Performance Stage 2 Cams
• Supertech Black Nitrided Intake Valves
• Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves
• HalferLand Performance 10K RPM Valve Spring Set
• ITM Engine Components - Bronze Valve Guides
• Fel-Pro® Valve Stem Seals
• Fel-Pro® PermaTorque MLS - Head Gaskets
• AD Engineering J32 Adjustable Cam Gears
• MoTeC M170 Standalone
• RyWire Custom MIL-Spec Harness
• Schmuck Built Tucked Radiator w/ -16 AN Fittings

Engine OEM/Replacement:

• AISIN WPH800 Water Pump and Gasket
• Gates T41090 Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley
• Gates T42038 Timing Belt Idler Pulley
• (2) Genuine OEM Acura Camshaft Thrust Cover O-Rings
• (2) Cover Assembly, Front Camshaft Thrust
• FEL-PRO TCS46025 Front Camshaft Seals
• (2) Genuine OEM Acura Water Tube O-Rings
• FEL-PRO ES72774 Water Bypass Set
• Gates 33992S 172 Degree Premium Thermostat & Seal
• (2) Genuine OEM Acura - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold (Nippon Leakless)
• FEL-PRO Valve Cover Gasket Set
• FEL-PRO Oil Pan Gasket (OS30632R)
• FEL-PRO Rear Main Bearing Seal
• Genuine OEM Acura Front Main Oil Seal (91214-P8A-A01)
• Genuine OEM Acura Filter Assembly, VTEC Spool Valve - Acura (15825-P8A-A01)
• Genuine OEM Acura Switch Assembly, Valve Timing Oil Pressure
• Genuine OEM Acura VTEC Solenoid Assembly
• Genuine OEM Acura Switch Assembly, Thermo (A-93) (Nippon Thermostat)
• Genuine OEM Acura Sensor Assembly, Water Temperature (Hadsys) - Acura (37870-PK2-015)
• GATES ACK060461 Accessory Belt Drive Kit

Oil System:

• Moroso 4-Stage Dragster Dry Sump Oil Pump 22524
• Custom Made Billet Aluminum Dry Sump Oil Pan
• PEGASUS Aluminum, 6.3Qt. Dry Sump Oil Tank 1256-200
• Fragola Performance Systems 6000 Series PTFE-Lined Stainless Hoses
• Fragola Performance Systems Black Anodized Aluminum Hose Ends
• Canton Racing Products CM 22-625 Remote Filter Head
• Mishimoto Universal 25-Row Oil Cooler MODEL: MMOC-25
• SPAL 7.5" 12V Fan Part #: 30100394 (For Mishimotor 25-Row Cooler)

Turbo System:

• Twin Garrett GTX2867R GEN II Turbos
• (2) TiAL MV-SBK 38mm Wastegates
• TiAL Q Blow Off Valve, 50mm
• Treadstone TRTTC9 Twin Turbo Intercooler
• 2.5" 6061 Aluminum Charge Piping
• Stainless T-Bolt Clamps
• Ronteix Universal 4-Ply Reinforced Reducer Silicone Hose Straight Couplers
• (6) 2.5” Vibrant Performance HD Clamp Assemblies
• Garrett Turbocharger GTX Turbo Speed Sensor Pro Speed Gauge Kit
• (2) K&N RU-2820 Universal Clamp-On Air Filters
• (2) Torque Solution Thermal Turbo Blankets (Carbon Fiber) Part #: TS-TB-CFT3
• (2) Stainless Steel, 3", V-Band, Turbo Downpipes
• (2) Stainless Steel, 1.5" Runner, 2.5" V-Band Discharge, 3/8" Thick Flange Turbo Manifolds
• P2R Titanium Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit
• (2) Vibrant 1491 3" Stainless Steel V-Band Flange Assemblies
• (2) Tier1 Motorsports PUSH LOCK Vacuum Fitting Kits

Fuel System:

• Aeromotive Eliminator 15 Gallon Fuel Cell w/ Brushless Pump
• Fuel Injector Clinic 1650cc High-Z Fuel Injectors
• Aeromotive A1000 Gen-II EFI Fuel Regulator
• P2R Power Rev Racing J32A2 Billet Fuel Rails
• Aeromotive Pressure Gauge 15633
• 3/8" Aluminum Hardlines
• -6AN Stainless Braided Hoses
• Aeromotive Black Anodized -AN Hose Ends, Adapters & Fittings
• Aeromotive 12345 10 Micron Fuel Filter

Exhaust:

• Twin HKS Carbon Ti Universal Mufflers
• Dual 3" Stainless Cat Back
• Stainless X-Pipe
• All Stainless V-Band Flanges
• Dual 3" Stainless High-Flow Cats

Drivetrain:

• Quaife QBE69G-Hond04 Honda S2000 6-Speed Heavy Duty Sequential w/ Straight Cut (Spur Gears) – Double Overdrive
• InlinePRO J2F Transmission Adapter Plate
• Action Machinne Custom 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft
• Drive Shaft Shop Level 5.9 Axles (S2000)
• Spoon Sports LSD Rear Differential (S2000)
• InlinePRO J2F Flywheel Spacer and Extended Bolts
• Custom Made Steel Driveshaft Adapter (6-Bolt Quaife S2000 Output -to- Spicer/Dana 1350 Series U-Joint)
• Science of Speed Billet Twin Carbon 700 Clutch & Flywheel - S2000, 2000-09 (DPP-551)
• Hasport 6061 T6 Aluminum Rear Differential Mounts (S2000)
• J's Racing Final Gear Set 3.9 Honda S2000 00-09 Model #: FG-S1-39

Chassis/Suspension/Brakes:

• J’s Racing Special Reinforced Rear Subframe (S2000)
• Front Coilovers - BC Racing Type-DS (Prelude)
• Rear Coilovers - BC Racing Type-ER (S2000)
• ST Suspension 25.4mm Front Swaybar
• TRUHART Rear Camber Adjustable, Upper Control Arms (S2000)
• Genuine OEM Honda S2000 R&L Rear Lower Control Arms
• Genuine OEM Honda S2000 R & L Rear Knuckle Assemblies w/ Lower Ball Joints
• Spoon Sports Control Arm Kit (Rear) – Honda S2000 52340-AP1-000
• Karcepts 00-09 S2000 Rear Sway Bar Kit: .095” Wall KRSB-AP-09
• Genuine OEM Honda S2000 Rear Wheel Bearings
• Genuine OEM Honda Prelude Front Wheel Bearings
• Front Brakes - WILWOOD Aero6-DS Radial Mount 6-Piston Calipers & 13" x 1.25" Rotors
• Rear Brakes - WILWOOD Forged Superlite 4 Radial Mount 4-Piston Calipers & 12" x 0.81" Rotors
• WILWOOD Horizontal Hydraulic Handbrake Part #: 340-14768
• WILWOOD GS Compact Remote Master Cylinder Part #: 260-15091
• 2005 Acura RL Power Brake Booster (11.25" Dia. Dual Diaphragm)
• TILTON Racing 900-Series Racing Floor Mount Pedal Assembly Part #:72-903
• (2) TILTON Racing 78-Series 5/8" Bore Brake Master Cylinders
• (1) TILTON Racing 78-Series 5/8" Bore Clutch Master Cylinder
• 3/16" Stainless Brake Hardline
• QuickCar Racing 3" Neoprene Duct Hose
• Custom Fabricated 12-Point Chromoly Roll Cage

Wheels/Tires:

• FORGELINE CF1 One-Piece Monoblock Wheels (18" x 10" -15mm Offset Front / 19" x 13" -35mm Offset Rear)
• PIRELLI P ZERO TROFEO R 225/40ZR-18 Front Tires
• PIRELLI P ZERO TROFEO R 325/30ZR-19 Rear Tires

Body/Lighting:

• DURAFLEX Type-M Fiberglass Front Bumper
• SEIBON Carbon Fiber GT Wing
• MORIMOTO BI-LED: MORIMOTO M LED Projectors w/ APPOLO 2.0 LED Shrouds
• KC HiLites GRAVITY LED PRO6 6" LED Driving Lights
• MORIMOTO Strips: PROFILE PIVOT (Sequential Switchback) – (2) 12” Strips (Daytime Running & Turn Signal)
• Custom 22 Gauge Sheet Metal & Fiberglass, Wide Body Front Fenders & Rear Quarters (3.36” or 85.34mm Front Extension Per Side & 5.65” or 143.5mm Rear Extension Per Side)
• Avery SW900 "Matte Night Blue Metallic" Vinyl Body Wrap:
• 

Interior:

• BRIDE STRADIAII SPORT Seats
• Green TAKATA Race 4-Bolt Cam-Lock Harnesses
• MoTeC C1212 12" Color LCD Display w/ Data Logging
• Custom Alcantara Suede Wrapped Headliner, Dash, Armrest, Rear Decklid & Door Panel Inserts
• Vivid Racing 10th Gen Civic Type-R Upgraded/Customized Steering Wheel - Carbon Fiber & Alcantara
• Longacre Ignition Toggle Switch, Starter Button Switch & Auxiliary Switches
• Rock West Composites 3mm (0.118”) Thick, Gloss Carbon Fiber Switchpanel
• Moonface Titanium "Teardrop" Shift ****
• Sparco "RACE" Pedals
• ZOOM ENGINEERING MONACO 240 Rear View Mirror in Carbon Fiber
• Escort IXC Radar Detector

Audio:

• Alpine X308U Digital Media Navigation Receiver
• Alpine HCE-C2100RD Multi-View Backup Camera
• Alpine X-A70F X-Series 4-Channel Amplifier
• Infinity Kappa Perfect 600 6-1/2" Components (Front Door)
• Alpine X-Series X-S69C 6”x9” Components (Rear Deck)
• Kicker Q-Class 41DL7122 Ported Enclosure w/ (2) 12” L7 Subwoofers
• Alpine X-A90M X-Series Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
• Stinger SPC5010 10 Farad Pro Digital Hybrid Capacitor
• Crutchfield CK4 4-Gauge Amplifier Power Wiring Kit
• Stinger SHD20 Power Distribution Block
• Stinger X3 Series 17' 2-Ch & 4-Ch RCA Interconnects
• HushMat Bulk Kit (58 Sq. Ft.)

Build Cost: Approx. $110k

Audio System Layout:



Here is some photoshop work of my custom carbon fiber switch panel:


Here is a photoshopped pic of the MoTeC C1212 Color 12" Display fit into my dash:


Here is an illustration of the dry sump oil system layout:



Here is a manufacturer style, specifications table of the final car:
*Click to open in photo viewer window and click again to zoom

Chance EG

I hope you got deep pockets boy.

2x0

Freedo_Civegra

Freedo_Civegra

Freedo_Civegra

Natturbo 18

I have a 2006 Honda pilot for sale but it needs a transmission rebuild selling it cheap $2000

2000

Freedo_Civegra

splatV6

Twin turbo is over kill, you can achieve the numbers you want plus more, by just going single.

Iv seen a few V6's single turbo's at 700, stock bottom and heads.

Freedo_Civegra

Accordian47

I know that for the most part, a single turbo is just as efficient but I really like the idea of two smaller frame turbos on a longetudally mounted v6. Its going to be a little more plumbing and cost sure but it will be great for the low to mid range power im looking for and they should spool quickly with 1 turbo per 1.75 Liters of engine displacement and 3 cylinders, plus its a little more symetrical looking in the engine bay.

Freedo_Civegra

No, all LS series engines rotate clockwise as do all J series. I don’t know where you got your information, but it’s entirely BS.

Accordian47

Soo I found some bad information, is the information bad? I guess so but I personally feel a little bothered by it being "entirely BS", a simple "no man, they rotate the other way" would have done but ok

Freedo_Civegra

Stop taking things on the internet said by complete strangers so personally because it’s unhealthy to seek validation from people you don’t know.

Besides, I wasn’t calling your efforts in research BS. I was calling the misinformation you came across BS. I don’t want anybody believing something that ain’t true.

Accordian47

Thank you, makes sense

Mykizism

Look forward to the build.. I hope see to see some updates & progress pictures!

Accordian47

UPDATED Original Post

Accordian47

Bumptastic

Enlight3n3d0n3

If you're doing twin turbos, you might be better off finding a j35z engine. They have cast iron sleeves and would be better suited for boost. As for transmission, I think you'd be better off finding an s2k tranny, the cd009 tranny, or a bmw zf 5 speed. All those should have ready to go adapters, you'll just need to figure out the clutch and flywheel solution. But those transmissions should be significantly cheaper. And it looks like you're going for high rpm too? The heavy springs seem unnecessary otherwise. If that's the case, don't use the j35 crank and rods. Or forged steel internals. Those internals would be too heavy and would put a lot of strain on the crank. And the longer stroke of the j35 is unsuited for high revs. You want something interesting, use a j37 block with j32 rods and crank. The j37 has a higher bore and the j37a2 & j37a4 had 3 lobe vtec.

Accordian47

I like the idea of a J35Z engine, more displacement and already sleeved but the displacement is only an increase of 0.3 Liters and I can easily sleeve the J32A2 block with a more heavy duty, aftermarket, race proven Darton MID sleeve.
As far as transmission, I have considered the Nissan and BMW transmissions but they are only so strong. I'm aware that there are adapter kits out there for this specific application but I technically did choose an S2000 transmission, Well, sort of... An aftermarket transmission designed for the S2000 anyways. It's expensive but its very heavy duty, with straight cut gears AND sequential in shift pattern. I like the idea of something that is designed to handle the hp and tq compared to a stock oem trans and one that has sequential shifting. I agree 100% on cost though, if I was on a budget I would most likely stick with a trans that didn't cost nearly $12k.
As far as valvetrain, I WAS planning on a 8,000RPM redline but I think I'm gonna stick to about 7,000RPM instead, I'm running fairly aggressive stage 2 cams, with boost AND a 7,000RPM redline so that is kind of my rationalization for the heavy duty valve springs.
I don't think forged rods and pistons are going to weigh too much for my plans, with only a 7Krpm redline, I need the strength, and they will be precision balanced.

Accordian47

I've decided to ditch the Sparco SPX Carbon seats due to the fact that theyre way to overkill and mad expensive ($3,100 a seat), I'm choosing the BRIDE SRADIAII SPORTs in black with no logo (Much cheaper @ $1,605 a seat). I have also decided on a 12:1 compression ratio for the J32A2 instead of 11:1, I want high compression, I want quick revs, good throttle response and good low end power.

tony_2018

I'd start with the swap/conversion 1st before thinking of anything else.

Accordian47

What I need to do it get the $ necessary and then decide what major tools & equipment I'm going to need to make the conversion possible.
I need a lift, mig welder, tig welder, welding gas, gas tanks & accessories, possibly a plasma cutter, a tubing bender, bandsaw, cutoff saw, laser measurement tools, possibly a lift table or powertrain jack, transmission jack, more jackstands, an engine hoist, high reach auxiliary jack stands, tubing notcher, metal working equipment like english wheel, bead roller, brake, shear, slip roll, shrinker/stretcher, power hammer, hammer & dolly set. The list goes on and would probably have things added to it as I went.

It's difficult to just do the conversion because once I get the engine in there, I'd need management and that means the MoTeC M1 and a custom harness and if I'm going to go to the bother of running that I would want to have the engine up and running with the turbos so most likely, I'd build the engine on a stand (internals wise), get it mounted, get the sequential 6-spd in there and mounted, then do all the other work after, plumbing intercoolers & turbos, fuel system etc.

I guess the right thing to do would be aquire the shop to build it in, get funds together, get allll the parts and start the conversion, adding required custom systems and components as I go. I don't think just getting a longitudinally mounted j32 in there with a sequential 6-spd and running it is the way to go.

Freedo_Civegra

I'd start with actually getting the car 1st before thinking of anything else.

Accordian47

I got the car! lol, just not the shop, equipment & spare $120k for parts.